2002 Sport Trac

[dvdswan]

Went through and checked all the fuses, pulled the connections on the 4X4 CM and checked that for any visually bad components. All good. Checked relays. All good.,

So, I'm ordering a 4X4 CM. Big bummer.

Power mirrors... verified power to the switch but couldn't check continuity of the switch because I didn't know which pins were what. Since both mirrors don't move, I am ordering the switch.

Started digging into the radio operation, works great as I stole the antenna off the wife's Explorer. Next problem is I need to change it from Espanol to English. Tried to do a factory reset but that just wiped the channels and maybe old phones. Not sure about the last part, I didn't look there.

I do have a question on the fuse cover in the engine compartment. Is it suppose to match the layout exactly?

This is the layout...

but the cover looks like this... just imaging the numbers are facing correctly.

 

[410Fortune]

Flip the cover over lol read it from the top. I use the owners manual or the wiring book to determine correct fuse size and location

The big deal with these sport tracs is Early and late build basically 02-05 are all very similar the big changes were in the early 01-middle of 02 job1 and job 2 they call it

I suspect the shift motor

Long before we suspect the control module
I mean I have rebuilt and replaced 50 shift motors I have never replaced a control
Module and had it fix the issue

The shift
Motors usually just require a good bench cleaning and then they start working like new again

 

[dvdswan]

Flip the cover over lol read it from the top. I use the owners manual or the wiring book to determine correct fuse size and location

The big deal with these sport tracs is Early and late build basically 02-05 are all very similar the big changes were in the early 01-middle of 02 job1 and job 2 they call it

I suspect the shift motor

Long before we suspect the control module
I mean I have rebuilt and replaced 50 shift motors I have never replaced a control
Module and had it fix the issue

The shift
Motors usually just require a good bench cleaning and then they start working like new again

Even with no lights on the dash?

On another note. I figured out how to change the language on the Kenwood stereo in the truck. KDC-BT275U



I finally came across this as all the other videos were not working. Factory reset just cleared the stored stations.

 

[410Fortune]

The only way you get a 4hi or 4low light is when the motor shifts into the gear
Or are you saying
The lights do not come on when you first turn the key? (With the other warning indicators)

 

[dvdswan]

The lights don't come on at start up or selecting 4HI or 4LO. I'm not hearing any clicking or movement from the 4x4 shift motor as well.

I will be changing the cluster bulbs as there are 1 or 2 out near the tach. But all warning lights come on but the 4x4 and 4x4LOW lights.

 

[410Fortune]

Make sure the bulbs are good
Check all fuses related to ESOF / control module aka the 4x4cm or motorolla box
Check connections at dash switch and ohm the switch out

Check for power ground at perspective wires at the control module

Check the through floor wiring and wiring at the t case shift motor
On my 03 sport trac the rubber boot that went through. The floor was disturbed and the wiring had been messed with. I got the system working again just by messing with it and cleaning the motor and connections. Then a few weeks later the sohc engine kablooey

I have never seen one of these 02+ motorolla boxes fail, at least not that I remember. The switches always seem to work well too… it’s almost always the shift motor! But that does not mean it does not happen
I have replaced
Many ESOF computer and relay setups on the big trucks obs and superdities
(superdities like to have leaky windshields and corroded fuse boxes)

 

[oklagp1200r]

My 2001 4X4 control module failed once! JS
Those shift motors stop working also because like in my case I previously never engaged the 4 wheel drive for years! Now at least once a month leaving or coming down my dirt/gravel road I engage the 4 wheel drive.

 

[dvdswan]

Well, in this case it's the "fat electron".

I went to test the switch, power to it, and grounds. Broke the stupid clip on the connector. Plugged it back in the switch and saw the 4x4 light come on then off. Weird. Put the bezel back in place turned the switch, heard the CM click and the light came on. Turned to 4LO, heard the CM click and the light came on. Turn it 2WD, started the truck, put in 4x4, light came on and did a slight turn and could feel the front end pulling. SWEET. Straightened the truck out, put in neutral and put it in 4LO, light came on and stump pullin' power was present. SUPER SWEET!

So, PFM happens every so often and it feels good. Didn't have to climb under truck just yet.

Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[410Fortune]

Just needs exercise! Good show

 

[oklagp1200r]

Don't try to pull any stumps with that thing! LOL

 

[dvdswan]

Don't try to pull any stumps with that thing! LOL

That's what this is for...

 

[dvdswan]

Today, I picked up the power mirror switch. Pulled off the dr. door panel, 4 screws 5.5mm head (2) behind the pull handle and (2) at the bottom of the door panel. There is a little plate at the door handle, it has integrated flat clips on the top and bottom of the plate. It pops of very easily. The multifunction window switch has (2) metal clips, (1) in front and (1) in back. This lifts up fairly easily as well. Disconnect the door lock switch connector and the (2) connectors for the power windows. Pop out the clips (2) at the bottom of the door and (3) on the front and (3) on the back.

It's a lot easier if you have an interior trim tool kit.

Once all the door panel clips are disconnected, you can just lift straight up to detach it from the window belt trim. You can now disconnect the mirror switch. The mirror switch has (2) clips (1) on top and (1) on the side. If you push in the (1) on the side 1st it will be easier to get it out after pressing the top clip. Once the new switch is installed you can just put the panel back on. The 1st step is to line up the window belt trim, have the window down then start with the back of the door panel 1st at a slight angle, line up the lock knob and with the corner of the panel in window belt trim track the panel will just guide itself in the trim track. Then reverse the process of removing the door panel.

This whole job took about 20 minutes total. If it's your 1st time go slow so you don't break any plastic clips or the parts that hold the clips on the door.

The next task was to find out why my tailgate handle was difficult to operate. You would have to pull up really forcefully to get it too unlatch. I was thinking that something was bent or a plastic clip was going to fail. There are (6) T30 Torx head screws towards the top of the tailgate. (2) on the left side, (2) in the middle, and (2) on the right side. Then there are (4) body clips at the bottom.
Once the panel was off, I could tell that all the mechanisms were dry and dirty. Took some brake cleaner spray and sprayed the mechanisms, the latch and (2) locks on each side of the tailgate. Once that dried, I sprayed WD-40 on them with a good soak. Unfortunately, I didn't have any lithium grease which would have been better. I have plans that I want to do to the tailgate so I will coat latches at that time.

While I was doing this I noticed the poor install of the 3rd brake light on the topper. One of the wires was broken. Surprise there.

I'm not a huge fan of butt connectors just for the simple fact that they can fail. These have been open to the elements because the back glass is missing. The wires have corrosion on them as well. I threw some new butt connectors on to get by until I have the proper connector for this.

 

[410Fortune]

well done! those old nissan hardbodies are awesome, especially when you remove the anemic stock drivetrain!!!

 

[dvdswan]

well done! those old nissan hardbodies are awesome, especially when you remove the anemic stock drivetrain!!!

It did pretty well with the 2.4/5sp/5.13s before installing the 5.3.

 

[dvdswan]

So, today I replaced the one broken and one damaged fog lights.

To start of I needed to remove the splash shield, 3 Philips head screws (2 facing the tire) and 1 facing straight up at the bottom corner by the tire. Then there are 2 plastic body clips that attach to the top part of the splash shield.

This will give you clean access to the fog lamp housing. The fog lamp is held on to the bumper cover with (3) 7mm screw. Remove the bulb connector then the screws. To install the fog light housing reverse the process.

To replace the bulb. After you disconnect the connector, twist the bulb counterclockwise and pull out.

 

[410Fortune]

If your glass lenses are broken you can do like me and use the factory housing to
Hold some Aftermarket led cubes

 

[dvdswan]

If your glass lenses are broken you can do like me and use the factory housing to
Hold some Aftermarket led cubes

View attachment 448659
View attachment 448660
View attachment 448661

Those look perfect in there. Nice job.

 

[dvdswan]

Today, drove down to Portland to pick up a factory bed cover and bed divider for the truck. Turns out I picked up a bike rack as well. All FREE!!! Well, 80.00 for gas, so good purchase anyway.

 

[410Fortune]

Whoa whoa wow hold the horses! A bed divider? Why is this the first I’ve heard of this nifty device? I’ve been using a $15 harbor freight load bar to keep things upright in the bed, a factory divider? That is cool. So the sport trac you could get a hard or soft tonnue cover, a bed extender, a camper shell and now also a bed divider? Cool!!!

Good
Score! All you need now is a set of folding explorer sport trac camping chairs!!

 

[dvdswan]

Good Score! All you need now is a set of folding explorer sport trac camping chairs!!

Like these...

Have you been under a rock?

On a side note. I will have to do some cleaning and lubricating on the latches and cables. I did a brief pull test of the release "T" and it did nothing.