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2004 Explorer grinding

Careful buying online, the ones I bought online didn't even last 10k miles, spend the extra $$$ and save the headache. My 2 cents.

Well good ones are only available online. AZ/OR/AAP don't sell SKF and Motorcraft bearings last I looked.

10K sounds more like a installation error (if rear), pressed in wrong place or incorrect torque on axle nut.
 



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Careful buying online, the ones I bought online didn't even last 10k miles, spend the extra $$$ and save the headache. My 2 cents.
As has been mentioned here, where you buy your parts doesn't have all that much to do with the quality of what you get.

Whether you buy your parts online or at a local parts store, the most important consideration in getting quality parts is the manufacturer. Local parts stores often sell cheep, low quality parts. Some stores sell nothing but. The same can be found online. High quality parts are also available from a variety of locations. Even quality brands offer cheaper grade parts. It is not nearly as simple as online or local.

If you buy a quality brand part that is not from an "economy" parts line, you are very likely to end up with a part the performs well. Nothing is certain, but this gives you the best chance of success. If you buy a cheap part from an economy line or no-name brand, you are much less likely to end up with a part that performs well. You are especially less likely to end up with a part that performs well for a long time. This really doesn't have anything to do with where the part is purchased.

The benefits of buying locally are that you can often get the part on the same day and it is much easier and cheaper to return the part if there is an immediate issue. Warranty returns will likely be easier as well. Parts are almost always more expensive at local stores and the selection will be much more limited. Also, many auto parts stores sell their own brand and it can be difficult to know exactly what you are getting because you don't know the manufacturer. Stores like Advanced Auto Parts sell both their own brand as well as some of the manufacturer brands, though you often have to order these parts and they are more expensive then buying them direct.

The benefits of buying online are that you have an almost unlimited selection available and will nearly always get the lowest price, though shipping can eat into that if it is not included. There are problems with online ordering, especially if you are not ordering from a mainstream outlet like Amazon, RockAuto, Walmart, etc, or a well known parts site like Caird or Summit Racing, etc. There are ever increasing issues with counterfeit parts so beware of prices that are significantly lower than it looks like they should be. I have had this problem even on Amazon (not with car parts). There are also horror stories about getting someone else's rusty old part in your brand new box because someone returned their old part instead of the new one and no one checked, or no one cared. This can happen in local stores as well. I now open every box at the store immediately after I have bought it. There are allot of open box items that are sold as new.

There is no foolproof method of buying parts since there always seem to be some people who are dishonest, lazy, or incompetent. I don't consider cheap parts to represent any dishonesty as long as they are not advertised as other than what they are. I think there is a place for parts that can get you buy in the short term though it really depends on what the parts do.

Your best bet is to buy a quality brand part from a reputable store, whether that store is on a local street or in the ether. You will generally always get a quality part when buying from a dealer, but these will also be the most expensive.

LMHmedchem
 






Did one side took about 5 hours
Couldn’t find new bolts today
Hated to reuse bc they were creaking when I was loosening them. (Loud creak sound was scared they were going to break)
 












These are supposed to be new bolts with threadlock. I wouldn't skip both of those if at all possible. If you are going to reuse bolts, I would apply threadlock to be on the safe side. If you didn't, you could back out the bolts until you have exposed some of the threads in the hub, apply the threadlock to the threads, and screw the bolt the rest of the way in. I don't think it would take too long.

In any event, you will want to re-check the torque setting after a week of driving or so and then again in a month. That will give you a good idea as to how well the bolts are holding.

LMHmedchem
 












My abs code c1234 seems to be gone so do I even need to install the driver side front hub or wait??

DCE265E1-A979-46CC-BEFF-06BCA1A6D9B9.jpeg
 






I also need upper control arms with ball joint and sway bar link eventually and pretty soon. The inside of front tires are worn is that cupped??? Seems like my steering wheel is rocking back and forth . I’m wondering if I have busted belt on front tire too so I may go ahead and install my newer rims and tires I bought though current condition of front end isn’t good for the tires longevity.
 






My abs code c1234 seems to be gone so do I even need to install the driver side front hub or wait??

View attachment 423048
I install these in pairs. When I replaced my front hub assemblies, only one side had a bad sensor also, but both bearings showed signs of wear. I’m sure you may get varying opinions about this, but that’s my 2 cents.
 






I install these in pairs. When I replaced my front hub assemblies, only one side had a bad sensor also, but both bearings showed signs of wear. I’m sure you may get varying opinions about this, but that’s my 2 cents.
It took about 5 hours today for one no rush the bolts were making a creaking sound as I was loosening them I was scared they were going to break.
 






I also need upper control arms with ball joint and sway bar link eventually and pretty soon. The inside of front tires are worn is that cupped??? Seems like my steering wheel is rocking back and forth . I’m wondering if I have busted belt on front tire too so I may go ahead and install my newer rims and tires I bought though current condition of front end isn’t good for the tires longevity.
I also replaced my upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and steering components. If I were to do it over, I would have replaced the upper and lower control arm assemblies with the ball joints and bushings preloaded. Pretty much all of these components get worn out by the time we reach this age and mileage. Odd thing with the steering links: a mechanic said they were fine, but he checked them on a rack where the wheels were down. I re-checked myself with the truck in the ground and there was indeed steering slop. When I got them out, I couldn’t believe just how sloppy they were.
 






I also replaced my upper and lower ball joints, sway bar links and steering components. If I were to do it over, I would have just replaced the upper and lower control arm assemblies with the ball joints and bushings preloaded. Pretty much all of these components get worn out by the time we reach this age and mileage.
Yes definitely I will not press a bearing or ball joint. I don’t understand how this 161000 miles explorer needs all 4 bearings control arms and sway bar links. It seems the previous owner did no maintenance. This is only vehicle I ever checked or changed differential fluid.
I saw a grease zerk today. Any idea how many grease points ?
 






Yes definitely I will not press a bearing or ball joint. I don’t understand how this 161000 miles explorer needs all 4 bearings control arms and sway bar links. It seems the previous owner did no maintenance. This is only vehicle I ever checked or changed differential fluid.
I saw a grease zerk today. Any idea how many grease points ?
Mine had zero grease fittings when I got it. The steering components, steering end links and u-joints all now have grease fittings with the aftermarket parts. Suspension components is one area that I almost exclusively use Moog brand since they are a pain to replace and Moog tends to have extra bits like the zerk fittings.
 






For the work and time involved adding my vote for buying and pressing in better bearings. I bought them cheap and the pair lasted 12 months. Too much work to not buy better bearings.
 






For the work and time involved adding my vote for buying and pressing in better bearings. I bought them cheap and the pair lasted 12 months. Too much work to not buy better bearings.

SKF or Motorcraft (***) only!
 






The quality of a part has little to do with where you buy it, but rather the company that manufactured the part.

You can often get the exact same parts from many places for a range of prices. Local shops will almost always be more expensive than online prices if you can wait for the normal shipping times. People who work at local shops get paid like everyone else and so there are added expenses. You will most always get high quality parts from a dealer, but these will also be the most expensive in most every case.

Post what you are looking for here and there are many members who can tell you the best parts to get for your budget.

LMHmedchem
New front hub assembly already bad bought online.
 












That's not really very informative so I'll assume it was a eBay no name china special.
Autoshack brand and a family member bought it on Amazon and autoshack wouldn’t even deal with me when I asked if bolts should have been included. I don’t have an Amazon account. Front hub assembly pair
 






Autoshack brand and a family member bought it on Amazon and autoshack wouldn’t even deal with me when I asked if bolts should have been included. I don’t have an Amazon account. Front hub assembly pair

Never buy auto parts on amazon. I've found no manufacture that will honor a manufacture warranty for parts bought on Amazon as they say Amazon is "not a authorized retailler of their brand". I've even had some say RockAuto isn't a authorized retailer but that don't matter when RockAuto handles the warranties. Amazon don't.
 



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Never buy auto parts on amazon. I've found no manufacture that will honor a manufacture warranty for parts bought on Amazon as they say Amazon is "not a authorized retailler of their brand". I've even had some say RockAuto isn't a authorized retailer but that don't matter when RockAuto handles the warranties. Amazon don't.
The manufacturer said it has to go through Amazon platform. My mother bought on her Amazon account she went to return or warranty and it says we don’t want the parts part but will back but they will return her money. And since it was a pair I wasn’t going to take both hubs off. I called the manufacturer when it first arrived to inquire about bolts and the boxes had holes in them and you can see the indentation of parts on the boxes. I guess now I will go buy one locally.
 






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