2015 Sport won't start below 40 Degrees

[TheDuck1214]

Does this Explorer have any sort of exterior ambient temperature sensor or programming setting that will not allow engine to start. Replaced battery at end of October and had Ford reset BCM during diagnostic. It will not start if below 40 degrees without charger connected. I do hear something click and see the exterior lights flash once then I am able to start engine. Once started it will be fine throughout the day. Exterior lights will not come on until it is ready to start while on charge but I do have interior lights and radio and dash go through normal wake screens, remote locks work but horn will not sound when anti-theft engaged and remote start will not function until it starts with a jump. Explained issue to Ford when had diagnostic run and they were not able to duplicate issue.

I am just looking for some idea what can be causing this issue.

Thanks in advance

 

[peterk9]

Welcome to the Forum.
The answer to your first sentence/question is NO.
The "click" if heard prior to trying to start the engine doesn't sound normal to me nor the headlights flashing once. You said the dealer ran diagnostics and everything was fine. Do you know if they actually checked for possible error codes before doing that?
Have you tried starting it with the keyfob in the "emergency backup" slot in the console? Just curious.

Peter

 

[TheDuck1214]

Welcome to the Forum.
The answer to your first sentence/question is NO.
The "click" if heard prior to trying to start the engine doesn't sound normal to me nor the headlights flashing once. You said the dealer ran diagnostics and everything was fine. Do you know if they actually checked for possible error codes before doing that?
Have you tried starting it with the keyfob in the "emergency backup" slot in the console? Just curious.

Peter

Peter,
The dealer did not mention any error codes with this issue.
I have put the key fob into the backup slot then press the break and then the start button and still Norge engine will not turn over at all. As I said before I have to place the battery charger to get it to the point to start. Once I hear the click I then begin to hear t door chime and am able to start. The time on the charger ranges from 5 to 15 minutes before I can start

 

[peterk9]

Sounds like it isn't getting the required power to start initially for some reason as that is all the charger is doing. Do you get any sounds when trying to start it without the charger connected? Are your headlights at full power at that point. It is hard to tell exactly what the "click" is although it could be a relay energizing.

Peter

 

[TheDuck1214]

Sounds like it isn't getting the required power to start initially for some reason as that is all the charger is doing. Do you get any sounds when trying to start it without the charger connected? Are your headlights at full power at that point. It is hard to tell exactly what the "click" is although it could be a relay energizing.

No sound when trying to start it first just the exterior lights and the interior ones, the radio wakes and the dash lights no door Chime while having issue. The door locks work when I use the fob and depends on the day, the anti-theft alarm goes off. I cannot just get it to power on to accessory before I give it enough charge to start. The anti-theft will go off every few days, when it does I open the hood and it will stop honking after a minute or so with the flashers on so I can connect the charger. The original dealer informed me after I got it home is to connect a trickle charger to resolve the startup issue.

 

[Odrapnew]

I had a similar issue with my Explorer last summer.
Most things seemed to work, but it wouldn't start.
I pulled the battery thinking it was low and brought it inside to charge it (it's ~2 yrs old). I didn't want to run extension cord across the sidewalk.
I put it on the charger, but it didn't take much of a charge.
Reinstalled and it's been working ever since.
My only thought is one of the connections wasn't great and was fixed when I disconnected and reconnected.


Maybe you have a loose battery connection.
Try disconnecting, cleaning and reattaching the connections.
Also, if you can, trace the cables to the other ends to confirm good connections there.

 

[Gary Crist]

I've had similar problems w/ customer cars. Terminals "cleaned" usually with one
of those battery terminal brush cleaner brushes. The first step was to clean the 2 terminals
with a scraper or knife, until oxide layer is cleaned off and one has shiny lead on
both the terminals and posts.

Fords always have had problems with the GROUND terminal.
Try that first.

 

[Sixonemale]

It seems unlikely that you still have the original battery, but the positive terminal has a well know corrosion problem on certain batteries that came with the vehicle.

Corroded Battery Terminal / Cable

Just had positive battery harness replaced for corrosion on my '16. They also replaced the battery. Both were covered by 3yr/36000 mile bumper to bumper warranty.

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Odrapnew]

It seems unlikely that you still have the original battery, but the positive terminal has a well know corrosion problem on certain batteries that came with the vehicle.

Corroded Battery Terminal / Cable

Just had positive battery harness replaced for corrosion on my '16. They also replaced the battery. Both were covered by 3yr/36000 mile bumper to bumper warranty.

www.explorerforum.com

The OP did mention new battery at end of October, which had me thinking terminals. Hopefully the terminal isn't corroded already (you never know though).

 

[Sixonemale]

The OP did mention new battery at end of October, which had me thinking terminals. Hopefully the terminal isn't corroded already (you never know though).

My bad, it's early, thanks. It still could be a bad terminal connection, but not related to the bad batch of batteries that caused severe corrosion on the positive terminals way back when.

 

[peterk9]

.......................................... The original dealer informed me after I got it home is to connect a trickle charger to resolve the startup issue.

That may resolve the starting problem but won't fix the underlying issue. If let go long enough, it may eventually get to the point that it won't start when you are somewhere without the charger. You may want to consider taking it to a place that specializes in automotive electronics for an opinion.

Peter

 

[TheDuck1214]

Thanks everyone for the next step I will check into. When I get to it I will check the connections for corrosion. I will keep everyone posted after that

 

[dejen3303]

The original dealer informed me after I got it home is to connect a trickle charger to resolve the startup issue.
Yeah, no. Don't ever go back there. As a professional mechanic, not automotive, I have installed tenders on machines that get little use and will sit for a month or more without starting. I have never used one on a car.
What you are describing sounds like a corroded, loose or bad connection. Look for that first. I think the 40 degrees thing is a coincidence. A sensor shouldn't keep it from cranking, only from starting. In my 40+ years in the field I've seen plenty of coincidences and they tend to lead to wild goose chases.

And as an aside I replaced the battery in mine after 2 years because I ran it dead twice only using accessories with the engine not running. Batteries are relatively cheap compared to being stranded.

 

[TheDuck1214]

Sorry for not getting back sooner. I have been busy with the holidays. Today I cleaned the terminals, had some weird funk on them, may have been what try cleaned the engine with before it was sold to me. My wife also mentioned the negative terminal was loose today, it is kind of odd but after I cleaned it I tightened it up snug. will see in the morning and I will update again.

 

[TheDuck1214]

As of this morning still having to jump off the Explorer to get it going for the day. Still I have exterior lights, interior lights and dash and radio wake and light, cannot turn in accessories, key fob will lock and unlock the doors but will not open lift gate and horn will not sound to set the security system.

 

[Odrapnew]

Have you confirmed the battery voltage at the posts when this occurs?

 

[dejen3303]

You're going to have to test for a voltage drop. Could be a bad battery. I saw you replaced it last October, it's rare but it's a possibility.

 

[Gary Crist]

This sounds like a bad ground to a relay. What is the resting battery voltage
before you have jump or start the vehicle?

 

[TheDuck1214]

An update to everyone. I finally have the problem resolved. Turns out it was a bad BCM and wiring in the rear bumper sensors. I sent it to ford in march and finally received it back. The delay was due to an issue with getting the New BCM. parts were not being made for some time due to manufacturer delays.