2nd Gen Shock installation write up - All four corners

[churd69]

I just bought procomp 9000 for the rear of my 01 sport. On the edelbrocks I just installed the metal piece that looks like a wrench was already in the shock, in the procomp ones it is seperate. How the heck do I get it inside?

-Rich

 

[IZwack]

you have to drive that into the bushing - usually with a press - not sure you can hammer that through w/o damaging it - maybe with a deadblow hammer.

 

[churd69]

you have to drive that into the bushing - usually with a press - not sure you can hammer that through w/o damaging it - maybe with a deadblow hammer.

i dont have a press, what is a deadblow hammer?

-Rich

 

[Turdle]

Could you start it in a vise, then use a large socket as a backer and vice it thru?

A bottle jack, blocks of wood and something heavy can be a psuedo press, if you can

 

[97BlackX5.0]

if you spray it with WD-40 and wiggle it back and forth it will slip in. thats how i put them in my shocks.

 

[fortunado]

i did mine about two weeks ago. the rear ones were easy enough. the front ones, i needed my son to help. sheared the old studs right off. i think they were original, 10 years.

 

[swankystallion]

Awesome Job! workin on my rancho 9000's right now! Helped alot!

 

[EddieBauerCP]

Hey guys... I've got a 98 Eddie Bauer Explorer with that garbage air ride. I plan on replacing the Air ride with Munroe Sensatrac shocks.. NOT airride. The reason for this is honestly the cost of replacing the air ride. Does anyone know if this is possible to straight up swap the air ride for the standard shocks.. i've never swapped between the two types of shocks.. I plan on doing all four. Any help here would be AMAZING as I've been looking everywhere.. and so far.. this is obviously the best thread I've found.
Thanks in advance..
p.s. if you don't mind replying to this via email that would be awsome
the_green_jacket@hotmail.com
thanks a lot!

 

[toddious]

Hey guys... I've got a 98 Eddie Bauer Explorer with that garbage air ride. I plan on replacing the Air ride with Munroe Sensatrac shocks.. NOT airride. The reason for this is honestly the cost of replacing the air ride. Does anyone know if this is possible to straight up swap the air ride for the standard shocks.. i've never swapped between the two types of shocks.. I plan on doing all four. Any help here would be AMAZING as I've been looking everywhere.. and so far.. this is obviously the best thread I've found.
Thanks in advance..
p.s. if you don't mind replying to this via email that would be awsome
the_green_jacket@hotmail.com
thanks a lot!

I replaced the fronts of my air ride system with pro comp es9000's today. I am doing the rears this weekend. I was worried as well, regarding changing over the system, so i will have to keep you posted.

 

[ChriszTruck]

Thank you so much for this write-up. I just did the front struts on my truck tonight, and it feels absolutely fantastic. The originals were still on there from '96 with 158k on the clock, eek!

I got KYB GR-2's from www.autopartswarehouse.com for $58 shipped. They're not the best quality, but not the bottom of the barrel either.

 

[jkfoote]

More thanks

Thanks for the write-up, it was just what I needed to do this job on my '98 XLT.

The tip about using a section of pipe over the end of an open ended wrench to loosen difficult to reach nuts was very helpful. I probably would have figured this out on my own eventually, this just saved me some time.

Everything went very smoothly for me. The only hickup I has was at test drive time: a once-per-wheel-revolution click. It turned out to be contact between the new shock and the head of the bendix clamp on the outer CV boot (drivers front). The OEM shock has a lower stem profile that is cut away near the cv boot - it looks like this:

The new shock was a more typical looking shock profile with the lower tube extending all the way down to the lower connector. I flattened the head on the bendix clamp so that there was enough clearance and all is well.

If I had it to do over again I'd only make these changes: I pick up a 13mm deep socket and I'd inspect for interference by rotating the front wheels a couple of times by hand before buttoning the whole thing up.

Thanks again for the write-up.

 

[mbird97x]

Hartman, great writeup. Just did mine this past weekend. A couple thing different on the 98.

The back were cake done in 30 minutes.

The front were a bit of a pain. On mine I had to hold the bottom with an 18mm wrench while I used a deep well on the top bolt. Only one bolt on the top on mine.

The only problem I had was getting them torqued to 35lbs. While putting them in the shock wanted to spin. On my new Monroe Sensatrac's there was nothing to hold onto to stop the spinning. I tried a pipe wrench on the first one but was tearing into the shock so I stopped. Then I put a little straight jaw pliers on the bottom and I think I got them to about 23 ft. lbs. Those little rubber pieces really compress down as you tighten the bolt.

The end on one of my shocks wasn't pressed in right and I had to return it for another new shock. Kind of irritating having to run back to the auto-parts a different autoparts store because the one I bought it at only stocked two which I bought that morning.

By the way you really have to take the front wheels off and put it up on jack stands to do the job. I'm happy to be done with it. I figure I'll check the bolt in a few weeks to see if it needs any tightening.

mhill

There is a socket available at most parts stores that fits that funny shaped oblong part of the top stud on the front shocks. Holds the stud from turning while tightening the nuts.

 

[gijoecam]

Everything went very smoothly for me. The only hickup I has was at test drive time: a once-per-wheel-revolution click. It turned out to be contact between the new shock and the head of the bendix clamp on the outer CV boot (drivers front). The OEM shock has a lower stem profile that is cut away near the cv boot - it looks like this:

The new shock was a more typical looking shock profile with the lower tube extending all the way down to the lower connector. I flattened the head on the bendix clamp so that there was enough clearance and all is well.

Not to burst your bubble, but they gave you the shocks for a 2wd, not a 4x4. That's why the shocks for the 4x4 have the stem like the one in your picture. I would not run them that way... When you turn, the CV joint moves fore and aft slightly as the knuckle articulates. This can cause the CV to make contact with the shock body... Never a good thing.

I'd take them back... the 4x4 shocks are not the same as the 2wd ones...

 

[rscamaro73]

My 99 Ex has the 'stem' stock shocks on it as well, and its a 2wd.

Been contemplating changing them all at 110K miles now. Even the 5th shock, but those are (from a couple years ago research) expensive.
They have the 'shock tower tool' for those single post shocks.
If you can't get them out after they round, if you have the room, they do snap off if you can yank them down 90 degrees. Just make sure the lower section is still bolted in.

 

[ThePhoenix]

thank you again for this thread. I replaced my back shocks this weekend with no problem (except for buying wrong wrench size)

I even removed the gas vapor thing and reinstalled no prob

ride is much better...my rear wheel was evidentally hopping....now, its fairly smooth and good at 70mph....I think I might have slightly cupped my left rear tire...so i will need a balance

again.,..thanks for the great write up

 

[fatvdub]

Thanks for the write up I just replaced my shocks and ran into no problems!!!

 

[snapp central]

Awesome. so nice to have this write up; a great help. thanks.

 

[kdspapa]

I didn't want to spend a lot of money on replacement shocks so I took the deal AZone was offering on Gabriel shocks. Free home delivery and fifteen dollar rebate. The shocks came with loose nuts and bolts instead of the pressed in bolts as the original ones had. My question is: should I have used lock-tight on the bolts? If yes, which color lock-tight would you recommend?

 

[ThatExplorerDude]

Good write-up. Even if it is a few years old... might have to do the ones on my truck soon enough. I have 148508 miles on my truck with the original shocks... and they are a bit weak and saggy. Maybe in the next few months when money allows.. Hoping to go with the Sensatracs.. can someone pm where they got their sensatracs from and cost? Thanks

 

[Flash]

Good write-up. Even if it is a few years old... might have to do the ones on my truck soon enough. I have 148508 miles on my truck with the original shocks... and they are a bit weak and saggy. Maybe in the next few months when money allows.. Hoping to go with the Sensatracs.. can someone pm where they got their sensatracs from and cost? Thanks

Like you I have a USA car but i don't live in the USA.
What I do is find the part number then google it until I find the price/freight cost I want.

Try Amazon CA.