Torque Monster Headers: Installation Writeup and Review

[LiKuiD]

I am enjoying my headers my car is really mean now. I beat a V6 accord from a dig and passed him at 80 mph

I have more power but it feels like I am missing something in the middle.

I have the MAC catback which may be causing torque loss in the middle band.

Need to get that back up.

Other than that and the fitment on the 2000 + everything is perfect.

I've noticed the same thing with my MAC exhaust. I think I may end up getting duals like I wanted originally wanted because that gap of torque loss as always bugged me since I put it on...and it was never there before the MAC exhaust...hmmmm...might be time for new headers/exhaust system...

 

[410Fortune]

if you are missing siomething in the mid range have you considered a cam upgrade?

Also what gears are you running?

 

[LiKuiD]

if you are missing siomething in the mid range have you considered a cam upgrade?

Also what gears are you running?

Well, I figured if the mid range was there before the MAC, maybe it would be better to go for an exhaust system that didnt give more high end then low end power (maybe the 3'' of the MAC is to much and dual 2.5''s would be better? Or is that the same thing....) I'm not sure how all that stuff works, but when I put the MAC on, I definetely gained alot in the 3000+ rpm range...but its kinda hard to always drive in that area.

When it comes to engine internals, or anything besides bolt on parts, I get fairly nervous, for I have pretty much no experience in that department. So the thought of a cam upgrade is intriguing if it will get back that low-mid range, but at the same time I dont feel like paying out the ass to have it installed, yet I dont think im capable of doing it myself. Thats also why im hesitant to pick up a pair of the Torque Monster headers. If it was something electrical, I would have no problem but the more mechanical stuff isnt my strong point. So im not sure what to do right now.

By the way I have a 3.73LS in the rear.

 

[compdoc777]

Well, I figured if the mid range was there before the MAC, maybe it would be better to go for an exhaust system that didnt give more high end then low end power (maybe the 3'' of the MAC is to much and dual 2.5''s would be better? Or is that the same thing....) I'm not sure how all that stuff works, but when I put the MAC on, I definetely gained alot in the 3000+ rpm range...but its kinda hard to always drive in that area.

Do you think adding a powerdyne supercharger and 4.10 gears would help?

 

[LiKuiD]

Well yeah....but im not looking to blow $2000 bucks....and if I was to ever get a supercharger i'd definetely like to build up the engine a little first and at least have headers on there.

 

[CDW6212R]

If you look into a cam, try to keep the intake duration milder than the FRP cams. They all are over 220 degrees, and the stock cams are probably around 204-210, intake and exhaust.

I built a 91 HO engine a few years ago, and used a Wolverine WG-1190 cam. With 212/222 duration, it worked very well in a 95 Cobra Mustang, with NOS. I originally chose it for turbocharging, thus the mild profile.
Something similar to that would work well in our heavy trucks.

LiKuiD, dual 2.5" pipes are much larger than a single 3" pipe. Consider just two 2.25" tailpipes, with 2.5" pipes before the mufflers. Good luck,
Don

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

200 miles of highway later...

OK, had a nice drive out to my buddy in Red Hook, NY (about 200 miles).

Truck handled extremely well, lots of nice power.
- The Message Center recorded a 16mpg average for the run, which is up from my normal. (Gasp... I should make some of Aldive's mods!) Although I could have acheived much greater MPG if I didn't get on the throttle as much as I did. It's very fun to pass people in much lighter vehicles, while climbing up the steep grades of the Berkshieres.

- Underhood temps are reduced from before. The ceramic coating really does a nice job of keeping the heat out of the engine bay.

- Unrelated to the headers, but I think I already through off my less than a week old alignment doing a little urban wheeling/showing off climbing some concrete steps....

However, the truck has developed a RPM-dependant tick.
1) The header bolts/manifold gaskets may have just loosened up. I'm going to re-torque them when I return to Boston. I might also upgrade to the Percy's "Dead-Soft" gaskets, and the stage-8 bolts everyone raves about. I didn't feel these were necessary, so we shall see.

2) Many people have posted that they hear a tick from the engine if the EGR tube gets cracked. I had to severely stress the tube when I bent it to fit the TM headers. However, it appeared to be OK on install.

3) Lifter tick. Last spring I had the heads off, and the valvetrain apart. Something might have loosened up.

Any thoughts on narrowing it down?

 

[compdoc777]

OK, had a nice drive out to my buddy in Red Hook, NY (about 200 miles).

Truck handled extremely well, lots of nice power. The Message Center recorded 16mpg for the run. Though I think I already through off my less than a week old alignment climbing some concrete steps....

However, the truck has developed a nasty RPM-dependant tick.
1) The header bolts/manifold gaskets may have just loosened up. I'm going to re-torque them when I return to Boston. I might also upgrade to the Percy's "Dead-Soft" gaskets, and the stage-8 bolts everyone raves about.

2) Many people have posted that they hear a tick from the engine if the EGR tube gets cracked. I had to severely stress the tube when I bent it to fit the TM headers. It's a $54 part from Ford, not bent to shape. I don't want to have to bend that tube again. Anyone in Boston with an O/A torch around to help me heat-bend it?

3) Lifter tick. Last spring I had the heads off, and the valvetrain apart. Something might have loosened up.

Any thoughts on narrowing it down?

Yeah, I think we should have a new EGR tube added with the kit. Bending this piece is tricky and depending on age has the capabilty to break.

I'd pay more for the kit having this part stock.

Also, I am having clearance problems with the driver side header touching the firewall. Which Robert is taking care if with the latest upgrades.

Yet, now I have a problem with the left header. I still cannot with any tool reach the back motor mount bolt on the passenger side to retighten it once th header is in. Also the header touches the shock dome support or more rests against it. I think this needs to be looked into as well to bring it back in to the motor more. I'll have to post up some pics as soon as I get a pretty day again to take it apart and get some pics probably when I am installing X supercharger.

 

[410Fortune]

my EGR tube for my swap 97 5.0L was $22 from Ford......the one that came with my engine had a hole in it. It will take some nice bending to get it to fit, carefully.
I may just delete the damn EGR all together, I dont like it

A hammer will take care of that firewall.
You should be able to get at the motor mount, but mines a little different, we'll see what robert says.

The only issue I had was getting one of the middle bolts on the passenger side to thread, it wouldnt fit past the tube, so I had to remove the header and do this bolt half way in first. After that it was some tight finger work withthe 3/8" box end wrench to get them all tight, but it can be done.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Yet, now I have a problem with the left header. I still cannot with any tool reach the back motor mount bolt on the passenger side to retighten it once th header is in.

Compdoc,

I had some difficulty at first getting the passenger side header to fit in, and have enough room to tighten the motor mount nuts. However, there is a method to getting it to fit right, and an order that needs to be followed.

Here's what I did:

1) With the downpipe loose and out of the way, I lubed up both motor mount nuts/studs so tightening the nuts would be easy.
2) The nuts need to be raised to this exact height. Any higher, and it becomes impossible to get a wrench in to lower them. Any lower, and the motor won't go hight enough:

3) Once the header is in place, lower the motor.
4) Tighten the motor mount nuts, with the header loose!! I was able to use both a standard combination wrench, and the offset combo wrench pictured here:

I forget which nut I tightened first, but I belive I tightened the front nut, and then was able to access the rear nut. All of the tightening happened with the header loose. It took a while, and was slow going, but I was able to get both down and apply a large amount of torque to them.

In the above photo, if you look closely you can see that I removed the upper control arm mounting nut and alignment shims. It gave me more clearance for both the header and the wrenches. If you mark the position of the shim, you won't throw off your alignment.

Post back, and I'll help you get the mounting sorted out.

 

[compdoc777]

Compdoc,

I had some difficulty at first getting the passenger side header to fit in, and have enough room to tighten the motor mount nuts. However, there is a method to getting it to fit right, and an order that needs to be followed.

Here's what I did:

1) With the downpipe loose and out of the way, I lubed up both motor mount nuts/studs so tightening the nuts would be easy.
2) The nuts need to be raised to this exact height. Any higher, and it becomes impossible to get a wrench in to lower them. Any lower, and the motor won't go hight enough:

3) Once the header is in place, lower the motor.
4) Tighten the motor mount nuts, with the header loose!! I was able to use both a standard combination wrench, and the offset combo wrench pictured here:

I forget which nut I tightened first, but I belive I tightened the front nut, and then was able to access the rear nut. All of the tightening happened with the header loose. It took a while, and was slow going, but I was able to get both down and apply a large amount of torque to them.

In the above photo, if you look closely you can see that I removed the upper control arm mounting nut and alignment shims. It gave me more clearance for both the header and the wrenches. If you mark the position of the shim, you won't throw off your alignment.

Post back, and I'll help you get the mounting sorted out.

Yeah, problem there is no room.. like I say I will have to post a pic it's impossible with the engine lowered to tighten the back bolt.