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after looking into what i will be making for boost when i put the storker in mine (cant put a smaller pulley on or i will have to mill the snout) i am going to use a place called ASP. i gave them a call, and they can make one for a reasonable price. i have to supply the trigger ring however
I actually got it back together last sunday. I had to buy a colder spark plug set because I was getting a little detonation at high RPM. I kept taking timing out and still it was occurring. Just put them in tonight when I got home from work. Seems to be ok now. I still need to get it tuned, but that will have to wait because the holidays are fast approaching. I will wait until next spring probably to finish it all. I will probably buy headers instead of make them (still not sure yet), get the exhaust complete, get my throttle body on and fuel pump upgrade. I also need a wide band o2 sensor. For now its fun and makes heads turn and I should have some fun this winter with it. I will try to get a video to post of how it runs and sounds and maybe some driving on my day off this sunday.
The lower is not EGR and the heads are non EGR as well. I didn't have to cap off the port in the upper because there is nothing to lose vacuum to in the lower.
I've had a change of thought about the 347 so I'm now rebuilding the 302 that came out. I may spice it up a little with a cam and roller rockers and stick it back in the truck. I will probably still get the TM headers and finish the exhaust out the back, but I want the 347 in my mustang by summer. I was going to build a 408 then I thought about selling the stang but just can't sell it. I'm really thinking that 347 will be fun in the mustang. I like it in the truck but its just plain heavy and needs quite a bit like tuning, fuel system, better exhaust and weight. The truck is pretty fast but I still don't open it up 100% because it does lean out at WOT because of the lack of fuel.
I've ordered a rebuild kit from summit with gaskets rings bearings etc... for the stock engine. Not sure what cam would be good with the GT40Ps.
It's all just a thought for now. Not sure what I'll do. I may just build another 347 out of the block I have out for the mustang. I may just put the rebuild kit aside and come spring I might order a stroker kit. As of now I have mixed emotions about both but it's hard to afford both.
So here's an update. Today driving back from the nearby general store the oil pressure gauge was jumping up and down at idle while stopped. Just like it did before when I had the problem with the cam sensor shaft. I got it home and parked it then took the expedition to advance auto for another sending unit. But instead bought a mechanical $18 oil pressure gauge to make sure it wasn't my nightmare again. Temporarily connected the gauge in place of the sending unit and verified my fears. It had 30 lbs at first while cold then warmed up and dropped to 20. So did a test drive and steadily dropped to around 10 lbs until I turned around. While stopped it was a needle above 0. On the way home it was around 5-7 and again back home back to 0!! Now I'm spittin fire! So I'm rebuilding the stock engine and sticking it back in but I broke 3 bolts off in the left head. The 347 is going on the stand until it's ready for the stang.
I probably should have looked at the oil pump when I had the oil pressure dipping last time when the cam sensor shaft broke.
After I cooled down a bit my head leveled off and I thought about more. My oil was really thin and maybe a little washed with gas. I had a time or two where it ran really rich on start up after disconnecting the battery. It runs 30-40 cold on idle and 60s around 2500 RPM. I have to go into the office tomorrow for a couple hours so on my way back I will pick up fresh oil and filter and maybe thicker oil as well. I used 5w-20 M1 last time. I think I used conventional Castrol 30w for break in on two oil changes. And this last oil change has 2k miles on it.
It's a royal PITA and kind of unsafe, but the engine can be supported by straps around the harmonic balancer, after removing the front diff and steering rack the oil pan will drop bout 3" giving enough room to access the bolts to the oil pump and pickup. Then the pan will come out. You must re assemble the pickup, gasket and oil pump in this 3" clearance though while someone holds he oil pan for you.
I wasn't able to take good pictures while doing this, but yeah I've been there fr a different reason.