4.0 SOHC Performance Motor Build

[Jakee]

Cool deal.

It looks like their in the same state as me and I like the stuff that's "MADE IN THE USA".

"Located in Austin, Texas, Turbowerx is a premier automotive research and development organization, with special emphasis on products for Porsche automobiles. We utilize state-of-the-art technologies for the most thorough research and testing. With top-tier engineering and manufacturing, TurboWerx delivers unique, industry leading products."

 

[Jakee]

The good news - The pump stopped making the noise...

The Bad News - The pump doesn't come on. It's gone...

 

[Spdrcer34]

Have you watched any of the TRUCKS! shows recently?

They are dropping a 4.6 DOHC Aluminator into a Mazda B-series Truck (read: Ford Ranger).

It is called project 'Rolling Thunder'....as a play on words towards the F-150 Lightning...

At one point in the build, they had to address the steering shaft being moved closer to the drivers side fender....you might wanna check out the show, they mention it in the first episode, and then in the next show they actually show him doing the work to the firewall, and show the parts that were used to move the shaft away from that HUGE engine!

Ryan

 

[Limited02]

I have caught parts of that show in the past. Are you sure it's an Aluminator? I thought it was a Mercury Marauder engine that eventually gets worked over in later episodes?(never saw the end of it)

Either way, it'll be a fun tire smoker!

 

[Jakee]

I managed to drill and tap the oil pan in the vehicle for a new oil return right beside the oil filter and above the oil level. There is a spot on that side (passengers side), once the lower pan is off you'll see, that seemed to be a good spot for the debris to fall thru while drilling. Also is a good spot for oil to come back into the pan. This will take around 3 to 4 feet off my oil return line and around 2 feet of vertical taken away which should make it much easier on the pump. When I drilled thru, the pan was not as thick as I thought it would be (maybe ¼” or less). I went thru with a ¼” first, then 3/8” and finally .562” for a 3/8 NPT thread. The holes had to have a angle because it’s tight in there. I then used a 3/8 NPT Tap and a socket wrench with an 8 point socket to turn the tap. You can get the tap pretty straight this way by resting the rounded socket head on the motor mount. I ran the tap about 75% of the tap threads in before calling it good.

I’m still concerned a little about the thickness of the oil pan here but when I threaded the fitting in, it felt pretty good and got plenty tight. I used ARP thread sealant. We'll see how it works out. If it doesn’t, the oil pan will have to come off and get a bung welded in. But it can’t hurt to try, right?


All this took about 20 minutes.


Standard NPT Tap Drill Sizes

NPT Size Tap Drill Size (in.) Decimal Equivalent (in.)
1/16 - 27 "C" 0.242
1/8 - 27 "Q" 0.332
1/4 - 18 7/16 0.438
3/8 - 18 9/16 0.562
1/2 - 14 45/64 0.703
3/4 - 14 29/32 0.906
1.0 - 11•1/2 1•9/64 1.141
1•1/4 - 11•1/2 1•31/64 1.484
1•1/2 - 11•1/2 1•23/32 1.719
2.0 - 11•1/2 2•3/16 2.188
2•1/2 - 8 2•39/64 2.609
3.0 - 8 3•15/64 3.234

 

[Mountaineer1113]

There is a spot on that side, that seemed to be a good spot for the debris to fall thru while drilling.

A little trick to drilling: Lube the front of the drill bit up with some grease. The shavings stick to the grease so they don't fall in the pan.

Awesome work! Thanks for the references on taps.

 

[rocket 5979]

I managed to drill and tap the oil pan in the vehicle for a new oil return right beside the oil filter and above the oil level. There is a spot on that side (passengers side), once the lower pan is off you'll see, that seemed to be a good spot for the debris to fall thru while drilling. Also is a good spot for oil to come back into the pan. This will take around 3 to 4 feet off my oil return line and around 2 feet of vertical taken away which should make it much easier on the pump. When I drilled thru, the pan was not as thick as I thought it would be (maybe ¼” or less). I went thru with a ¼” first, then 3/8” and finally .562” for a 3/8 NPT thread. The holes had to have a angle because it’s tight in there. I then used a 3/8 NPT Tap and a socket wrench with an 8 point socket to turn the tap. You can get the tap pretty straight this way by resting the rounded socket head on the motor mount. I ran the tap about 75% of the tap threads in before calling it good.

I’m still concerned a little about the thickness of the oil pan here but when I threaded the fitting in, it felt pretty good and got plenty tight. I used ARP thread sealant. We'll see how it works out. If it doesn’t, the oil pan will have to come off and get a bung welded in. But it can’t hurt to try, right?




All this took about 20 minutes.


Standard NPT Tap Drill Sizes

NPT Size Tap Drill Size (in.) Decimal Equivalent (in.)
1/16 - 27 "C" 0.242
1/8 - 27 "Q" 0.332
1/4 - 18 7/16 0.438
3/8 - 18 9/16 0.562
1/2 - 14 45/64 0.703
3/4 - 14 29/32 0.906
1.0 - 11•1/2 1•9/64 1.141
1•1/4 - 11•1/2 1•31/64 1.484
1•1/2 - 11•1/2 1•23/32 1.719
2.0 - 11•1/2 2•3/16 2.188
2•1/2 - 8 2•39/64 2.609
3.0 - 8 3•15/64 3.234

With steel sheet metal oilpans you open the hole a bit with a drill and then finish with a metal punch. This provides for more threading and sealing surface to minimize leaks. Most are ok if just drilled though.

 

[Jakee]

Well, drilling and tapping the oil pan on the vehicle didn't work. It's leaking.....I could probably JB weld it but you guys know I don't roll like that.

The pan has to come off....

 

[Mountaineer1113]

Well, drilling and tapping the oil pan on the vehicle didn't work. It's leaking.....I could probably JB weld it but you guys know I don't roll like that.

The pan has to come off....

Good man. You try to cheap out now instead of doing it the right way you'll most likely regret it in the long run. Not too familiar with using JB Weld but I've heard that sometimes it works for a while and sometimes it doesn't even hold up.

 

[CDW6212R]

Most epoxy type repair products need perfectly clean and prepped parts, which is not easy to do some times.

Jake, take your time R&Ring the upper pan, it's important to get it sealed up and not leak. You don't want to do the work to fix the one leak and end up with another one.

 

[rocket 5979]

Well, drilling and tapping the oil pan on the vehicle didn't work. It's leaking.....I could probably JB weld it but you guys know I don't roll like that.

The pan has to come off....

My guess is you may have tapped it too deep. Pipe fittings, and thus their taps too, are tapered. To properly determine how deep to run the tap while making the threads you have to measure the diameter of the brass fitting with machinist calipers where it enters the oil pan and then measure the point on the tap whose diameter coincides with this. Then just tap it to that depth or a little shallower and you will have perfect fit pipe fittings with proper depth and good seal everytime.

 

[Jakee]

My guess is you may have tapped it too deep. Pipe fittings, and thus their taps too, are tapered. To properly determine how deep to run the tap while making the threads you have to measure the diameter of the brass fitting with machinist calipers where it enters the oil pan and then measure the point on the tap whose diameter coincides with this. Then just tap it to that depth or a little shallower and you will have perfect fit pipe fittings with proper depth and good seal everytime.

Yap, it's usually around 75% the length. I'm pretty sure when I drilled from an angle, the hole enlarged or actually egged just a tad. I then tried to straighten it out while tapping and thought I did. But it's leaking and I tried tightning it up. I guess I could tighting more cuss I have plenty of threads left. I'm nervous I'll crack the pan. Yes, that can happen with cast aluminum. I don't think there's enough meat for the taper. It's probably like .125 thick.

If the pan was flat where I drilled I could use a bulk head fitting. But its not. I don't think theres anyway around it but to take the upper pan off. All the manuals state you need to pull the engine in order to get it off. I know I can jack the engine and not have to pull the motor but I'm not looking forward to doing this. Half of me wants to just pull the motor and continue this thread like it started (a performance motor build) even if it takes 2 more years to complete.

The good news is I think the new PCV evac system worked pretty good. I'll have to post some pics up of this little creation. I need to get a vacuum gauge on the catch can to see how much vacuum (if any) I have @ WOT. THe one time I said screw it an hit the gas, It was detonating like crazy so I couldn't tell.

 

[rpcaster]

Jakee,
What about a pipethread fitting with 0-ring?

 

[CDW6212R]

I pulled my upper pan by lifting the engine off of the mounts slightly, exhaust attached. The diff. has to be out, but not much else. You can do it.

 

[rocket 5979]

Yap, it's usually around 75% the length. I'm pretty sure when I drilled from an angle, the hole enlarged or actually egged just a tad. I then tried to straighten it out while tapping and thought I did. But it's leaking and I tried tightning it up. I guess I could tighting more cuss I have plenty of threads left. I'm nervous I'll crack the pan. Yes, that can happen with cast aluminum. I don't think there's enough meat for the taper. It's probably like .125 thick.

If the pan was flat where I drilled I could use a bulk head fitting. But its not. I don't think theres anyway around it but to take the upper pan off. All the manuals state you need to pull the engine in order to get it off. I know I can jack the engine and not have to pull the motor but I'm not looking forward to doing this. Half of me wants to just pull the motor and continue this thread like it started (a performance motor bbuild) even if it takes 2 more years to complete.

The good news is I think the new PCV evac system worked pretty good. I'll have to post some pics up of this little creation. I need to get a vacuum gauge on the catch can to see how much vacuum (if any) I have @ WOT. THe one time I said screw it an hit the gas, It was detonating like crazy so I couldn't tell.

How far below the flange did you locate your fitting and where is this in relation to the top of the oil?

 

[Jakee]

It's above the oil level about 2 to 3 inches in the upper part of the windage tray. Next to the oil filter. I may just drill and tap the oil filter and be done with it...LOL

The problem was getting a drill in there.

The pipe thread with an o-ring may work? hmmm

 

[rocket 5979]

The pipe thread with an o-ring may work? hmmm

Doubtful. There will be no real shoulder for the o-ring to rest against in the fitting. And there will be no recess cut into the pan metal to allow the o-ring to seat inside and press-fit to a good seal.

If I were you I would just use some RTV on it. Take the fitting out,splotch some RTV on the threads, and tighten her back in. It might be enough to take up that little extra space and seal the leak. After all, according to your fitting placement, it should be more of a passive leak than a persistent one.

 

[Jakee]

Doubtful. There will be no real shoulder for the o-ring to rest against in the fitting. And there will be no recess cut into the pan metal to allow the o-ring to seat inside and press-fit to a good seal.

If I were you I would just use some RTV on it. Take the fitting out,splotch some RTV on the threads, and tighten her back in. It might be enough to take up that little extra space and seal the leak. After all, according to your fitting placement, it should be more of a passive leak than a persistent one.

It doesn't leak when cold or just idling. I went for a 5 mile trip, then crawled under to find a good bit of oil, so it's when I'm driving and the engine oil is warmed up. Can't hurt to try RTV. I guess I'll take the fitting out, clean really good, and re-seal with RTV. Good idea.

Hind site is 50/50...Using the below would have given the room to do this right. I guess, if nothing else works, I could go to the next sized larger and use a right angle drill attachment to get it straight.

 

[rocket 5979]

It doesn't leak when cold or just idling. I went for a 5 mile trip, then crawled under to find a good bit of oil, so it's when I'm driving and the engine oil is warmed up. Can't hurt to try RTV. I guess I'll take the fitting out, clean really good, and re-seal with RTV. Good idea.

Hind site is 50/50...Using the below would have given the room to do this right. I guess, if nothing else works, I could go to the next sized larger and use a right angle drill attachment to get it straight.

View attachment 61943

50/50 hindsight huh? Lol

 

[CDW6212R]

50/50 hindsight huh? Lol

That's about what my eyesight is now, 20/50 or so.

Try the Ultra black or copper and see if that does it, I love the stuff.