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Solved 4.0 SOHC Ticking Hunt

DemonMudder

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Okay, know this has probably been covered, done several searches already and just want y'alls opinion on this. Had an engine tick for several months now, always ticks until I'm up to a decent speed, or it's just not loud enough to hear at that point. It speeds up with the rpms, if I hit the gas, it speeds up and slows back down with it. It's on the passenger side, know that for a fact, so I'm pretty sure it's nothing to do with the egr. Tried adding seafoam to the oil, didn't help at all. So yeah, love to hear some opinions before I go looking for lifters or rods
 



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410Fortune

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Exhaust tick? or chain rattle? that is the question

usually a "ticking noise" is an exhaust leak. Easy enough to pinpoint with engine running.... look for black soot

However with a sohc engine a tick could easily be the chain tensioners/timing cassettes The rear cassette is on the back of the passenger side head near where you describe the noise to be

Adding seafoam to the oil is an effort to break down any carbon bits that are plugging up your chain tensioners
instead I would replace the tensioners
I believe Ford recommends the tensioners be changed at 90K miles
SOHC engines rely heavily on frequent oil changes using FULL SYNTEHTIC only to keep the tensioners fresh and clean.
Any slight chain noise at cold start on a sohc engine first thing I would recommend is install new Ford tensioners

However, I (and a few elite die hards) prefer manual tensioners if it was my truck/family/friends. Everyone seems to be scared of installing a manually tensioned tensioner = foolish! They work wonderfully and thanks to Polaris using Cloyes/Ford tensioners in their xp1K prostar engines, the aftermarket is FULL of cheap manual tensioners that will screw right in
 






DemonMudder

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Yeah...: 222k miles, not sure if it's ever had the tensioners messed with right off hand, when I get back in a few hours I'll check around for the soot first. If it's the chain tensioners, I'll definitely look into the manual tensioner, does seem to be more recommended! Thank you for the input!
 






boominXplorer

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The only "tick" I see in the 4.0s in the oil rail hitting the cam lobes from someone doing a valve cover job. Of course check and see if your spark plugs are tight and if you have an exhaust leak.
 






donalds

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However, I (and a few elite die hards) prefer manual tensioners if it was my truck/family/friends. Everyone seems to be scared of installing a manually tensioned tensioner = foolish! They work wonderfully and thanks to Polaris using Cloyes/Ford tensioners in their xp1K prostar engines, the aftermarket is FULL of cheap manual tensioners that will screw right in
I think people are scared on how to set them up

Here's my way
Ok ill try

Disassemble the tensioner and put a bit of oil in t so the o ring can move around when you adjust

Adjust the tensioner most all the way loose ...or in
Then install it into the head
Screw the tensioner adjuster 10mm
Use your hand and a 10mm socket to turn in the adjustment screw with 2 fingers till it stops
Do not use a ratchet !!
Now have someone turn the engine by hand till you feel the adjusting screw get looser
Then adjust again

Now disconnect the crank sensor
Have someone crank the engine with the starter
While you keep trying to screw in the adjustment in by hand with 2 fingers
It will screw in a little at a time

never put much force turning that screw like almost no force required
We are just removing the slack that's it

Now the last part
start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs
Again use just a 10 mm socket and your to fingers
Once you feel the pulse ing stop your there shut down the engine

Last step
Back off your 10 mm adjustment 1/4 turn lock it down done


I need to make a video
 






DemonMudder

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I think people are scared on how to set them up

Here's my way
Ok ill try

Disassemble the tensioner and put a bit of oil in t so the o ring can move around when you adjust

Adjust the tensioner most all the way loose ...or in
Then install it into the head
Screw the tensioner adjuster 10mm
Use your hand and a 10mm socket to turn in the adjustment screw with 2 fingers till it stops
Do not use a ratchet !!
Now have someone turn the engine by hand till you feel the adjusting screw get looser
Then adjust again

Now disconnect the crank sensor
Have someone crank the engine with the starter
While you keep trying to screw in the adjustment in by hand with 2 fingers
It will screw in a little at a time

never put much force turning that screw like almost no force required
We are just removing the slack that's it

Now the last part
start it and adjust you will feel the pulse of the valve springs
Again use just a 10 mm socket and your to fingers
Once you feel the pulse ing stop your there shut down the engine

Last step
Back off your 10 mm adjustment 1/4 turn lock it down done


I need to make a video
I agree with the video bit, definitely appreciate the detailed description though!
 






donalds

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I agree with the video bit, definitely appreciate the detailed description though!
I will at some point
I've been lazy lately
If you need a vid just ask and ill make one !
 






DemonMudder

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I will at some point
I've been lazy lately
If you need a vid just ask and ill make one !
When and if I need to actually do this, yeah, a video would be very helpful, just so that I'm a bit more sure I'm doing it correctly
 






DemonMudder

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Not the best quality, phone barely picked up anything. But you can hear the ticking a bit at the end

 






donalds

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Sorry to say that's a broken guide
Its to late
Timing job time

You can try to install a new tensioner
 






DemonMudder

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Sorry to say that's a broken guide
Its to late
Timing job time

You can try to install a new tensioner
So, what am I doing for that? Probably do a new tensioner too while I'm at it, just in case
 












DemonMudder

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Well, I'm glad to know at least. And to be sure, I should just need the guides? Or do I need the timing chain itself too? Normally I'd prefer to replace it too while I have it apart, but if there isn't a need, I'd rather be cost effective if I can
 






donalds

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You can replace just the guide .....look up some YouTube vids ....
I don't recommend that if you can help it

 






DemonMudder

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Okay, just the guides then, probably have to have an auto shop do it, (hate, hate to do that). But I don't have the equipment, time, or anything to pull the engine. Saw from a few others threads on here, its estimated at more than $1500 to do??
You can replace just the guide .....look up some YouTube vids ....
I don't recommend that if you can help it

 






DemonMudder

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So, not the timing chain guides, spark plug issue. Longer story short: few months back during their replacement, one had to be retapped and the shop didn't do it well evidently. So that was the cause of the ticking, thankfully simple, but this is why I prefer doing the work myself over taking it in. Thank you everyone for the help
 






boominXplorer

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Nice job
 






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