4.0 SOHC was jerking at 55-60 mph , now stalling every 2-3 miles.

[Maxmax19773]

The ignition timing I believe is what tells the pcm “we are rotating go ahead and apply fuel and spark”
The crank sensor tells the computer the engine is rotating (via starter)
And the cam sensor is used to start firing in the correct time (time the injectors and spark to the camshaft)

This is a very odd issue you are having
You don’t lose spark and you have plenty of fuel pressure even when it stalls …
Very odd. Could be the pcm itself or something in the wiring/ grounds

Hi . I’m glad to have you on board with this issue. I will replace crank sensor I have now with the old one ( old one in working condition) and we will see what happens. Anything else I can do to narrow down the problem?

 

[Turdle]

Hi . I’m glad to have you on board with this issue. I will replace crank sensor I have now with the old one ( old one in working condition) and we will see what happens. Anything else I can do to narrow down the problem?

Yes
The wiring to that crank sensor is easily damaged.

Check that for intermittent connection also. If you can get a voltage reading at sensor connector plug, try wiggling the wiring to see if the voltage changes.

Might also set meter to resistance, probes on crank sensor connector , and wiggle wiring to see if resistance changes.

Intermittent problems are the most difficult to troubleshoot. Your patience is appreciated.

Edit
First thing next time vehicle has set overnight totally cooled
Measure key on engine off voltage at the engine coolant temp sensor . We want that baseline voltage to compare to it's voltage when engine stalls.

 

[410Fortune]

Excellent advice!

 

[Maxmax19773]

Yes
The wiring to that crank sensor is easily damaged.

Check that for intermittent connection also. If you can get a voltage reading at sensor connector plug, try wiggling the wiring to see if the voltage changes.

Might also set meter to resistance, probes on crank sensor connector , and wiggle wiring to see if resistance changes.

Intermittent problems are the most difficult to troubleshoot. Your patience is appreciated.

Edit y
First thing next time vehicle has set overnight totally cooled
Measure key on engine off voltage at the engine coolant temp sensor . We want that baseline voltage to compare to its voltage when engine stalls. If it Hi guys. I was chedp

 

[Maxmax19773]

Hi guys. I was following your advice and advice to check the voltage on temp sensors and with the magnify glass I was able to see that wires on connector got damaged!!!!! I replaced the connector and it r resolved the stalling issue. 200 miles with no stalling. I need part number of the connector because the one I put is not fitting in and I got to destroy plastic socket to fit it to the sensor it work great for now but need to be replaced with the one designed for ford temperature sensor. Car runs but jerks at 45-55 and sometimes on low speed when I got to accelerate after the turn or if I got to pass someone. Can I run some tests to make sure it’s a torque converter? I want to make sure before I remove the transmission) guys I really appreciate your help and support you give me on this journey. I’m also learning a lot of new stuff about electrical part of my expy such is a huge help. Pictures of the damn connector below. Respectfully. Max

 

[Turdle]

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[Maxmax19773]

Thanks. I totally forgot about rock auto

 

[410Fortune]

Excellent news!!!!!
Very common two wire connector

 

[C420sailor]

I may be mixing things up, but doesn’t one of those wires also connect to the cam position sensor? Or maybe they share the same loom in the harness? It’s been a minute

 

[Maxmax19773]

I may be mixing things up, but doesn’t one of those wires also connect to the cam position sensor? Or maybe they share the same loom in the harness? It’s been a minute

Hi . I cleaned the codes I had po 340 and p1309 they are related to cam sensor. I still have spark knock and jerking and it choke if I accelerate at least once at low speed. I really got to keep searching for what causes all this.

 

[410Fortune]

P0340
Cam sensor circuit issue

https://www.carparts.com/blog/code-p0340-camshaft-position-sensor-a-circuit-malfunction/

P1309
Also related to cam sensor issue, because of the 340 code the pcm has disabled the misfire detection because it cannot determine a misfire
Location without a proper working and timed cam sensor

Now that you have fixed the wires at the coolant sensor and cleared the codes let’s see if the 0340 code comes back
If so then … read all about the 340
Code
Above

You are doing. An excellent job!!! Learning so much about your rig (and any engine for that
Matter)

 

[Maxmax19773]

Hi guys. I was down sick with bronchitis) and just driving it as is . Had no energy and desire to do anything. After about a 1 k miles stalling issues returned. Few times a day or no stalling for a day at all . Usually low speed. Yesterday brake lights stopped working), ) . I will be working on the issue on this days because I will not drive it without brake lights for sure. Don’t want to deal with police or got into the accident. Brake actuator was replaced couple of years ago with motor craft p [art . So I definitely have ground issues. Will check back after run couple of tests on wiring around actuator and junk box . Cheers. Max QU="410Fortune, post: 4043052, member: 2893"]
P0340
Cam sensor circ issue

https://www.carparts.com/blog/code-p0340-camshaft-position-sensor-a-circuit-malfunction/

P1309
Also related to cam sensor issue, because of the 340 code the pcm has disabled the misfire detection because it cannot determine a misfire
Location without a proper working and timed cam sensor

Now that you have fixed the wires at the coolant sensor and cleared the codes let’s see if the 0340 code comes back
If so then … read all about the 340
Code
Above

You are doing. An excellent job!!! Learning so much about your rig (and any engine for that
Matter)
[/QUOTE]

P0340
Cam sensor circuit issue

https://www.carparts.com/blog/code-p0340-camshaft-position-sensor-a-circuit-malfunction/

P1309
Also related to cam sensor issue, because of the 340 code the pcm has disabled the misfire detection because it cannot determine a misfire
Location without a proper working and timed cam sensor

Now that you have fixed the wires at the coolant sensor and cleared the codes let’s see if the 0340 code comes back
If so then … read all about the 340
Code
Above

You are doing. An excellent job!!! Learning so much about your rig (and any engine for that
Matter)

Hi . I’m glad to have you on board with this issue. I will replace crank sensor I have now with the old one ( old one in working condition) and we will see what happens. Anything else I can do to narrow down the problem?

 

[Maxmax19773]

Hi guys. Happy holidays! I have update on jerking, or at least I presume it was the reason for jerking. My driveshaft broke down. Now I am looking for used driveshaft and might need some help: I am searching on eBay for driveshaft and eBay says that if it’s made between 1997 and 2003 2 wd :automatic- all of them are the same : 2 doors, 4 doors, sport track ( mine is 2 door) is it true? Installation: I believe I messed up while I was separating engine and transmission I probably did put it back incorrectly ( although I made some marks on yoke and shaft ends. So question is how to install it correctly. I am not surrendering until I fix it to the point where I will enjoy driving it ) cheers. Max

 

[wollimann]

I think in this case Ebay is not a good partner to verify your driveshaft.
If yours is a 2001-2003 third gen Ford Explorer Sport 4.0 SOHC automatic transmission 2-door RWD driveshaft,
it's not easy to find some used parts. Not shure if i am right, Dorman 66943QYXV should be the matching number.

But what's going wrong with your driveshaft, everything could be repaired (u-joints)?

 

[Maxmax19773]

Hi. Happy holidays. Old drive shaft got destroyed while I was driving. I believe it cracked at the hole where u

 

[Maxmax19773]

kmhSorry. It cracked at the hole where u joint goes. Is there instructions on how to install drive shaft? It’s got to be aligned but how??? My old one got marks I made when I was replacing u joints days back. Thank you. Max

 

[amj441]

Do you have pictures of the driveshaft end to attach here? The Shudder you feel could have caused the crack to appear. double check your differential and see and spin it by the yoke or pop the cover and inspect the gear teeth. you could be experiencing shock loads from a missing/damaged tooth. You also mentioned that you feel the shudder less when the OD button is pressed and marked off, which makes sense as the torque converter isn't locked the fluid is acting like a damper.

As for sourcing a driveshaft. I would be careful about picking one up for a 4 door, I know the 2 door model is 6 inches shorter in length overall so the driveshaft length may be different. you should be able to pull one from any of the older 2nd gen 2 door sports as your model is just a facelift.

keep us posted

 

[wollimann]

Is there instructions on how to install drive shaft? It’s got to be aligned but how?

If you bought a new driveshaft it is balanced correcctly by the manufacturer.
In my opinion there is nothing to "align". Just torque the 8 bolts down with the matching torque
and use thread locker with used bolts.

Drive/Propeller Shaft: Specifications — 2002 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2002 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E.

charm.li

Rear — 2002 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E Service Manual | Operation CHARM

Detailed repair manual for the 2002 Ford Explorer Sport 4WD V6-4.0L VIN E.

charm.li

If you bought a used driveshaft, it is possible that a balance-weight is missing/rust away, u-joints are worn,
slip yoke is dry/worn or the shaft tube have dents. All this causes vibration, only a good repair with good parts
and a balancing will give you peace.

 

[Maxmax19773]

Do you have pictures of the driveshaft end to attach here? The Shudder you feel could have caused the crack to appear. double check your differential and see and spin it by the yoke or pop the cover and inspect the gear teeth. you could be experiencing shock loads from a missing/damaged tooth. You also mentioned that you feel the shudder less when the OD button is pressed and marked off, which makes sense as the torque converter isn't locked the fluid is acting like a damper.

As for sourcing a driveshaft. I would be careful about picking one up for a 4 door, I know the 2 door model is 6 inches shorter in length overall so the driveshaft length may be different. you should be able to pull one from any of the older 2nd gen 2 door sports as your model is just a facelift.next step is installing it and see how it goes and if I have shatters or jerks and if I have them back I will remove cover and explore the gear

keep us posted

Hi . Thank you for your message. I got drive shaft from 2001 explorer sport like mine yesterday at the junk yard. I will balance it on this days at the shop . Virtually it looks okay with no damage to it but will see what shop will say when I bring it to balance. Than I will install it and if I still have shatter and jerking I will remove cover and check the gears ( I replaced the gear oil couple of years ago and don’t want to mess up with gear box if it doesn’t need. I will keep posting here. Thank you. Max

 

[Maxmax19773]

Hi gguys. After I replaced crank sensor connector it almost fixed the stalling problem ( it still stalls time to time and I decided to replace the crank sensor wire to see if it fixes the occasional stalling issue. I am wondering what should I remove to get it replaced? I see the alternator kind of on the way? What else? Is anyone here having diagram? Or familiar with the process? HappY Easter! Thank you all for your support. Max