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410Custom's builds a 2007 Ranger V8 - custom truck build - Project "Ranger Premier"

This is not diff lube it’s cv axle grease
I am super careful stabbing cvs through new axle seals
Could be a pinhole or a slit? I looked! Perhaps not well enough. It was a whirlwind weekend of fixing things haha
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Nasty mess

The 85w-140 I used in his diffs is red full sythetic mystic brand

Just got this one

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I think it's cool that Eddie understands that there may/will be problems with a new build
It's like you build a truck from scratch basically and the only problem you have is a leaking CV axle boot Can't complain right
Thanks Eddie for funding our entertainment for the past couple of years ;)
 






Nice, you don't see clean new grease very often, it should be a clean cleanup. Sorry about the CV boot, that's a shame to have a cut boot so fast.

I myself just did plug wires today, I had forgotten why I hated it the other times.
 






I don’t use the factory plug wire routing on the 5.0, I go to the fender skirt instead of the valve cover it’s much easier and further away from the heat
 






That better be the last stock one I do, I hate those many plastic OEM loom holders. The new wires are Motorcraft, and the lengths did not match the old wires, which had Ford on them. I expect COP wires to be a piece of cake compared to these.
 






for the hard start what was explained to me when i had mine tuned was unlike a ford pcm, the holley does not know where tdc is. there for it also wont know when to fire or inject fuel. it will need at least one revolution to find it. once that happens it may also need another one to fire everything and start. mine does that, as well as a friend that did a v8 swap with a terminator in a ranger (when they first came out even) does the same thing.
 






Okay so

500-750 miles
Change rear diff fluid. 75-140
Full synth yes I add the friction modifier even with an arb, it helps prevent foaming

Change oil 1500 miles then 3000-5000 after this
We are breaking in cam

Transmission change fluid 500-1000 miles and again at 2500
Or so. On second change drop pan and change filter
This is a brand new High Plains Performance trans
Mercon v we always run a bottle of lubegaurd as well, red bottle for fords
Measure what comes out, put back the same

Front diff can check fluid level she
Also got new ring and pinion in there but not really under load. You and I can drop the diff and drain it out next time she’s here
We (the forum) is working on a way to add a nice drain plug, from the factory there is no good way to get the gear lube out.
your front diff a bit easier as you have drop bracket lift ;)

I forgot to add a vent line to that front diff!!
It’s sitting here on my toolbox. You can run a 3/8 hose and clamp to up high near the brake booster

Eddie is busy busy truck is getting line x, tires balanced, body mounts, tune, and more….
 






for the hard start what was explained to me when i had mine tuned was unlike a ford pcm, the holley does not know where tdc is. there for it also wont know when to fire or inject fuel. it will need at least one revolution to find it. once that happens it may also need another one to fire everything and start. mine does that, as well as a friend that did a v8 swap with a terminator in a ranger (when they first came out even) does the same thing.


Good to know! Many firsts for me on this build. Each time I drove the truck the battery ended up getting removed again and again so to have the Holley actually fully done w learn mode only happened once or twice
And then I started adjusting the speed with the Dakota digital so that took a few more drives… finally she will be happy with the tune!

So much want!! Holley had almost doubled in price since this thread… sucks! Anyone see one used….. well im hoping to be in the market ;)
 






Good to know! Many firsts for me on this build. Each time I drove the truck the battery ended up getting removed again and again so to have the Holley actually fully done w learn mode only happened once or twice
And then I started adjusting the speed with the Dakota digital so that took a few more drives… finally she will be happy with the tune!

So much want!! Holley had almost doubled in price since this thread… sucks! Anyone see one used….. well im hoping to be in the market ;)

after i had mine basically sorted out, i also changed a bunch of the gauges on the the monitor because i got the factory tach to work and no longer needed it on the holley screen. it will even read your mpg, not average but real time. nice know when your getting 13mpg.......

if you had a facebook account, i am on a page called Holley Terminator X Ford Tech Page. sometimes you will see used even new kits pop up for sale, just have to be smart about the seller thats all. also the moderator (danny kimbler) is very smart with these systems (same guy i had you ship all my stuff to).
 






Let me know if you see a terminator x for a ford for sale! I’ll save $$$

I am
Preparing a post to show you (and the world) how I re wire the ac on these trucks when the pcm goes away

FYI the factory tachometer reads really really high? Yours the same way?
 






Let me know if you see a terminator x for a ford for sale! I’ll save $$$

I am
Preparing a post to show you (and the world) how I re wire the ac on these trucks when the pcm goes away
the problem with that is when they go up for sale, they dont last more then a couple of hours, then they are sold. i even tried to get one just to have it kicking around and just like keyser soze "poof", their gone.

and that would be awesome. this summer has been crazy hot to the point i didnt want to drive the truck because i would bake in it! theres that, and the reverse lights that i still have to get working among the other stuff that i should or have to do to it which wont happen more then likely till next spring.

 






So…. Eddie cannot drive his truck
Because the cv axle was removed and shipped to me for repair. Nobody else wants to help!? Local cv shop would not touch it, RCV will only sell a new axle…

So Eddie ordered the boot from RCV website and sent me the cv axle. I will cut clamps and old boot off, clean grease and remove c clip… wait for new boot in the mail

Not sure why it has a hole in it but I’m gonna find out
I cannot believe you can’t find a shop to replace a cv boot anymore… sad

In other news the truck had some upgrades and looks fantastic! Urethane Body mounts were done and the result is perfect body lines without a spacer. The line x was also done and looks fantastic!
Eddie will be posting the updates

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Pffft I’ll be right over hahaha you have a metal band clamp tool machine???

Waits on mailman
 












Pffft I’ll be right over hahaha you have a metal band clamp tool machine???

Waits on mailman

I have a hand tool to pinch the new band clamps, I used it once with a clamp that came with an axle boot repair kit. Is there something else special you have to use? I thought I'd need it more, but I end up using big wire ties for TRE boots etc. Where do special clamps come from?

BTW, does everyone use fuel line for vacuum hoses? I couldn't find any 3/* vacuum hose easily so I got some Gates 3/8" fuel line. This is for the large fuel tank vacuum source line, from the intake down to the canister purge solenoid under the battery.
 






HARROP has just released a 2650 supercharger kit for SB fords....😳

You post that after I rebuild my engine with hyper pistons? I was convinced I'd never go forced because there wasn't a good looking bolt-on setup. Now there is this....

Seriously though I wasn't interested in the fab work for turbos or another super setup, and N/A is enough for me on this swap.
Because the cv axle was removed and shipped to me for repair. Nobody else wants to help!? Local cv shop would not touch it, RCV will only sell a new axle…

I cannot believe you can’t find a shop to replace a cv boot anymore… sad

Devil's advocate here...

Is it that they wouldn't replace a boot on this rather custom application, or that they wouldn't replace a boot period?

The former I can kind of understand, the latter is just stupid.
 






I've replaced the cv boots on my 99 grand cherokee a few times. I used a crimp tool for the band and it worked fine.
 






BTW, does everyone use fuel line for vacuum hoses?
You'd be good to go Don. I would use a little clamping force due to the walls being less flexible
 



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Ok, let's see if I can do these updates as well as 410Fortune...

As soon as the truck was in my driveway the neighbors came to see
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Everyone got a chance to sit in it an a quick ride around the block.

The first appointment on the to do list was to get the bed lined with linex
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the owner of Truck Builders LLC of Lynnwood took charge an made sure I was happy with the lines because the fiberglass bedsides are a bit tricky
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These guys always take great care an go above an beyond for me. This is my 3rd time using them and the results are superb.

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They are priced right an do high quality work!!

Next appointment was to get the tires balanced to reduce some vibration an road noise.
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The guys at Discout tire hopped on it like Nascar. 4 guys all descended on the truck like a pit crew.
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They ran 2 tire balancers an were a joy to watch in action.
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This is a free service for anyone who is hesitant to get their tires balanced. It made a huge difference an the tires were so much quieter afterwards.

before I show everyone at work an start driving this daily I wanted to address the body mounts. We ran out of time to do them at 410s shop but I have a nice flat driveway an some tools of my own...

You'll notice in a couple of the preview pictures that the cab an the body were ever so slightly off.
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The assumption was because of the method used to mount the bedsides, that the truck could use new polyurethane body mounts an a couple washers to line up the body lines.

I removed the drop seats and pulled back the floor mat to gain access to the body mount bolts. I removed the old OEM rubber body mounts an replaced them with Energy Suspension polyurethane kit.
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They offer them in black or red. According to the web site they are the same firmness but most go with red because it's easier to see if they fail. It also matches the trans mount an a bunch of other red accents on the truck.

The first attempt was with washers added an it was obvious they weren't necessary. Then I tried it without washers added an it was spot on.
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Turns out the old body mounts just needed to be replaced. Now the front an back of the truck lined up perfect an it's nice knowing we have new ones
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In the process I discovered one of the OEM bolts was sheared so it needed to be done.
 






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