4r70w/ other issues

[Fish77]

I have a 1998 Ford Ranger someone swapped the 5.0 and trans/transfercase into. I currently have P, R, N and 1 or 2 fwd gears. I changed all the solenoids, A,B and TC, internal harness, output speed sensor (side of trans) still the same. Neutral Safety switch is operational, won't start in anything but N and P. Also, the speedo, O/D light, Check Engine Light, Cruise, ABS and Air Bag light have all quit working (Not so worried about the Air Bag). I'm new to the Ranger/Explorer scene but am mechanically inclined. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[410Fortune]

Soooo no drive? Only manual 1st and second?

The computer controls the shifting so without the computer working this could be the issue

No check engine light
No od cancel light
And not shifting point to issues with the wiring or computer controls

The check engine light is important…

Does the cel come on when you first turn the key?
If not then there is a power distribution issue or the bulb is out. Not likely the bulb since the other things quit working as well at same time

So you should check some fuses
Check fuses in interior fuse panel
Check for power at power diode in under hood power box

Check for power at pcm relay in under hood power box. The relay should click when you first turn the key along with the fuel pump relay

Now since this is a converted ranger who knows how the wiring was done. If it was done properly then there is a good chance we can fix this. If not… well that can be a can of worms

Also you should check condition of trans fluid, is it bright red and at level?

Is this ranger awd? Or did they use a different t case?

Can we see pictures? I have built and sold several v8 rangers over the years.
I spent 20’years building them in Colorado and since 2017 Idaho,‘Wyoming not far off… could it be one of mine? lol lol or a copycat!!

Welcome to the forum
5.0 rangers kick ass

Since the engine starts and the trans moves in manual 1-2 and r I’m gonna guess this is a wiring / sensor issue..hang onto your hats this could get interesting

You. = brave for buying a 5.0 ranger, hopefully whomever converted it did it properly

 

[Fish77]

Soooo no drive? Only manual 1st and second?

The computer controls the shifting so without the computer working this could be the issue

No check engine light
No od cancel light
And not shifting point to issues with the wiring or computer controls

The check engine light is important…

Does the cel come on when you first turn the key?
If not then there is a power distribution issue or the bulb is out. Not likely the bulb since the other things quit working as well at same time

So you should check some fuses
Check fuses in interior fuse panel
Check for power at power diode in under hood power box

Check for power at pcm relay in under hood power box. The relay should click when you first turn the key along with the fuel pump relay

Now since this is a converted ranger who knows how the wiring was done. If it was done properly then there is a good chance we can fix this. If not… well that can be a can of worms

Also you should check condition of trans fluid, is it bright red and at level?

Is this ranger awd? Or did they use a different t case?

Can we see pictures? I have built and sold several v8 rangers over the years.
I spent 20’years building them in Colorado and since 2017 Idaho,‘Wyoming not far off… could it be one of mine? lol lol or a copycat!!

Welcome to the forum
5.0 rangers kick ass

Since the engine starts and the trans moves in manual 1-2 and r I’m gonna guess this is a wiring / sensor issue..hang onto your hats this could get interesting

You. = brave for buying a 5.0 ranger, hopefully whomever converted it did it properly

So… if I shift through manually it only seems like there’s 1 gear, default was my first guess. But, it will manually downshift so it does shift somewhere.
When I changed the solenoids and internal harness, I changed the filter and fluid. Fluid looked great, I was actually expecting (hoping) to find stuff in the pan but it was relatively clean.
It used to have all the lights on the dash and then all of a sudden the abs, cel, cruise and airbag lights all quit coming on with the turn of the key. That immediately sent me to the fuse boxes numerous times to check each fuse with a test light to verify power on both sides of the fuse which every fuse was good. If it was questionable, I changed it with a known good fuse. Checked the diode and it had 12 on one side and 11 on the other side.
I have no idea which t-case was used, every time I crawl underneath to check that I end up reinspecting wiring and connections. I’m leaning towards the Ranger t-case though because when I purchased a trans wiring harness, it was different, had a pair of long wires that I believe went to the back of the t-case for a speed sensor from what I’ve read.
Speaking of the wiring harness- I need to back up. When I first purchased it ( traded a non running engine), the harness going into the trans on the pass side had some wires melted together and after I fixed that, that’s when the no lights and speedo issues came up. With everything melted together, had all the lights and whatnot.
Bought this to go with my 1976 Ranger, thought it would be neat- . It’s the Splash edition. I did finally get the tach to read closer to right. Thanks for your help! I’m glutton for punishment,

 

[410Fortune]

That is a very nice stepside!! Cool color
Not one I worked on unless it used to be white
The only other stepside i did was blue and solid axle
The passenger side wiring plug into the transmission is the bulk head connector

As you are aware it carries power and controls to the internal solenoids
Very odd that after fixing in the tissues started.

I suggest we re visit that connector
There are two 94-97 and then 98+
The earlier ones had more wires

We can identify the year of your trans by which plug you have

Now upstream of that white bulkhead connector should be a big square plug this will have all the trans wiring in it as well as the oxygen sensors… I would go back and inspect all of this because somehow you lost your od cancel and your speed sensor

Zoom out on the engine bay pics so we can see what 5.0 you have. Looks to be gt40p with external egr but would be nice to see for sure. I can usually tell a lot by the wiring from a few engine bay pics

Transfer case pics needed as well because:
All 5.0 explorers are rwd or awd, no selectable 4wd.
Only a few ford t cases will Bolt up and fit the Ranger
In order to run the Ranger t case the 4r70w would have been modified with a very expensive advance adapters tailhousing ($6-800) and output shaft, this requires the entire trans to be disassembled and usually rebuilt (1800-2500$) and now you would have a custom 4r70w so you can’t just go get another one (I’m in same boat)

Isnyour 4wd on a switch or on the floor ( manual)

So many questions! Hopefully we can get this sucker up and running

So… the wiring on the side of the trans. Of three power wires were combined on purpose this is a big deal, that would mean the earlier 4r70w wiring was upgraded to use the 98+’solenoids

Having a short in those wires can send a short straight to the pcm… the power feeds from pcm to trans solenoids are not fuse protected

As you can see I have a lot of questions! But if anyone can help you it will be me and the dudes on this forum

 

[Fish77]

That is a very nice stepside!! Cool color
Not one I worked on

The passenger side wiring plug into the transmission is the bulk head connector

As you are aware it carries power and controls to the internal solenoids
Very odd that after fixing in the tissues started.

I suggest we re visit that connector
There are two 94-97 and then 98+
The earlier ones had more wires

We can identify the year of your trans by which plug you have

Now upstream of that white bulkhead connector should be a big square plug this will have all the trans wiring in it as well as the oxygen sensors… I would go back and inspect all of this because somehow you lost your od cancel and your speed sensor

I have the 7 wire, I’m working today or I’d be out freezing my tail rechecking the main block as you stated.

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome and I love the Ranger, the Splash is the one truck I'd want.

BTW, check the green EGR vacuum line, it's cracked right next to the rubber 90* end. A dab of RTV will seal that.

 

[410Fortune]

Mr eagle eyes!!!

Can pull the line out of the 90 degree boot, sleeve it with rubber vacuum hose or shorten it and stuff it back in

 

[Fish77]

That is a very nice stepside!! Cool color
Not one I worked on unless it used to be white
The only other stepside i did was blue and solid axle
The passenger side wiring plug into the transmission is the bulk head connector

As you are aware it carries power and controls to the internal solenoids
Very odd that after fixing in the tissues started.

I suggest we re visit that connector
There are two 94-97 and then 98+
The earlier ones had more wires

We can identify the year of your trans by which plug you have

Now upstream of that white bulkhead connector should be a big square plug this will have all the trans wiring in it as well as the oxygen sensors… I would go back and inspect all of this because somehow you lost your od cancel and your speed sensor

Zoom out on the engine bay pics so we can see what 5.0 you have. Looks to be gt40p with external egr but would be nice to see for sure. I can usually tell a lot by the wiring from a few engine bay pics

Transfer case pics needed as well because:
All 5.0 explorers are rwd or awd, no selectable 4wd.
Only a few ford t cases will Bolt up and fit the Ranger
In order to run the Ranger t case the 4r70w would have been modified with a very expensive advance adapters tailhousing ($6-800) and output shaft, this requires the entire trans to be disassembled and usually rebuilt (1800-2500$) and now you would have a custom 4r70w so you can’t just go get another one (I’m in same boat)

Isnyour 4wd on a switch or on the floor ( manual)

So many questions! Hopefully we can get this sucker up and running

So… the wiring on the side of the trans. Of three power wires were combined on purpose this is a big deal, that would mean the earlier 4r70w wiring was upgraded to use the 98+’solenoids

Having a short in those wires can send a short straight to the pcm… the power feeds from pcm to trans solenoids are not fuse protected

As you can see I have a lot of questions! But if anyone can help you it will be me and the dudes on this forum

This is awesome! You guys are making my day for sure, it's fun to drive as is but want it right. I have attached pictures of most everything, I have the electric switch on the dash.

 

[Fish77]

This is awesome! You guys are making my day for sure, it's fun to drive as is but want it right. I have attached pictures of most everything, I have the electric switch on the dash.

View attachment 462012

View attachment 462013

View attachment 462014

I did put on a few wants, manual hubs from amazon and hood struts.

 

[Fish77]

Welcome and I love the Ranger, the Splash is the one truck I'd want.

BTW, check the green EGR vacuum line, it's cracked right next to the rubber 90* end. A dab of RTV will seal that.

I'm glad it is the Splash too, definitely sets it apart from the rest. Plus, having full exhaust with a muffler that gives it that old school hotrod sound.

 

[410Fortune]

Forget the hubs!! They are weak weak and will fail when you need them especially with 33s lol
I would instead look at converting to a live axle (no hubs) from an explorer. You would need cv axles and wheel bearings rotors from a Explorer or later Ranger

I can see your truck has a superlift drop bracket kit. Some of the superlift knuckles have bolt holes for the smaller and larger brake rotors found on 02-04 explorer sports / tracs as well as 02-11 ranger (they used larger rotors then the earlier trucks)
The 98-99 ranger power vacuum hubs suck
The aftermarket mile marker hubs that stick on there are super weak

We can see from those pics you have a 98+ 5.0 engine with p heads and cast exhaust
Manifolds (thank goodness)

That is a 4406 electric shift t case
Basically a half ton / 3/4 ton drivetrain in a ranger
Nice

(The 5.0 4r70w and 4406 combo was available in both f150 and f250’trucks under 5800# curb weight


Was the pat’s key fitted to the ranger? Or was the pcm tuned to delete the pats? That is the question

 

[Fish77]

Forget the hubs!! They are weak weak and will fail when you need them especially with 33s lol
I would instead look at converting to a live axle (no hubs) from an explorer. You would need cv axles and wheel bearings rotors from a Explorer or later Ranger

I can see your truck has a superlift drop bracket kit. Some of the superlift knuckles have bolt holes for the smaller and larger brake rotors found on 02-04 explorer sports / tracs as well as 02-11 ranger (they used larger rotors then the earlier trucks)
The 98-99 ranger power vacuum hubs suck
The aftermarket mile marker hubs that stick on there are super weak

We can see from those pics you have a 98+ 5.0 engine with p heads and cast exhaust
Manifolds (thank goodness)

Was the pat’s key fitted to the ranger? Or was the pcm tuned to delete the pats? That is the questio

Yea, the hubs were garbage, lol. Good to know on the live axle option, might be something to do when it gets a bit warmer up here. Unfortunately, they didn't do away with the PATS and I don't have the VIN from the donor vehicle.

 

[CDW6212R]

The PATS is great when it works, but sometimes there can be issues. You can use the PCM code printed on the outside to get help reprogramming it in any way. That's not cheap of course, you don't want to pay a lot just to remove the PATS.

But it isn't bad now to at least get new coded keys programmed to work, many locksmiths should have the special tool.

 

[410Fortune]

She runs so the pats must have been transferred over properly.
Does the theft light work?

Is there a Dakota digital speedometer interface on this truck?

There have been a few times where trans functions were lost because the white
Bulkhead connector was not fully seated… that sucker can be a bear to press all the way down.
Make sure after your wiring repairs you got it plugged all the way back in

 

[Fish77]

She runs so the pats must have been transferred over properly.
Does the theft light work?

Is there a Dakota digital speedometer interface on this truck?

There have been a few times where trans functions were lost because the white
Bulkhead connector was not fully seated… that sucker can be a bear to press all the way down.
Make sure after your wiring repairs you got it plugged all the way back in

Yes, the theft light works and if you have a non-microchip key, it won’t start- tried that. The dash is stock minus the blue led bulbs the PO put in which were a bear to get them all working properly.
I will go out and verify that the plug is fully seated. Every plug I’ve pulled apart I’ve put dielectric grease in- not filled them but a fair amount. Again, I appreciate all the help, this will be a pretty cool ride once it’s all corrected.

 

[Fish77]

The PATS is great when it works, but sometimes there can be issues. You can use the PCM code printed on the outside to get help reprogramming it in any way. That's not cheap of course, you don't want to pay a lot just to remove the PATS.

But it isn't bad now to at least get new coded keys programmed to work, many locksmiths should have the special tool.

The scan tool I have has the ability to do the coding for the keys, I haven't tried it yet- want to get everything else working first. I've heard PATs is great when it works and when it doesn't, it's miserable. I've looked into the new (reprogramed) PCM's and while it would be nice not to have to worry about the PATs, not ready for that yet.

 

[410Fortune]

Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity so you have to be careful with the application
It is great for keeping water out of connectors but the pins must be clean and clear for their to be conductivity

 

[Fish77]

Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity so you have to be careful with the application
It is great for keeping water out of connectors but the pins must be clean and clear for their to be conductivity

What is the spade connector circled in red for? It’s on the top left of the cluster on the back. I don’t see a wire anywhere that isn’t connected or that could go there.

 

[410Fortune]

I think that is just a locking tab that holds the anti slosh module in place on the back of the cluster

That green circuit board that presses into the cluster is called anti slosh, basically it smooths out the fuel level sender signal from the tank so that your gas gauge doesn’t move around too much as you drive

 

[Fish77]

I think that is just a locking tab that holds the anti slosh module in place on the back of the cluster

That green circuit board that presses into the cluster is called anti slosh, basically it smooths out the fuel level sender signal from the tank so that your gas gauge doesn’t move around too much as you drive

Gotcha, makes sense with it being on the same side as the fuel gauge. Thats a nice Ranger you have!