4r70w/ other issues

[Fish77]

Ok 410, cleaned all connections with electrical cleaner and blew dry. Cleaned the firewall grounds, cleaned the back of the instrument cluster and still nothing. Took my little portable air compressor with a ball needle and blew all the connections out and dry. Also checked for power at the white plug on the transmission and had 12v there.

 

[410Fortune]

And confirmed it’s fully seated?
Dang man I hope you don’t need a pcm

If you do have to get a 98-01 pcm keys/tumbler and pats module all
Matching from same donor… then swap them into the truck. It’s not that hard of a job

I also grab the door locks so I can make the ranger all use the same/one key

Those wires being melted together may have shorted the pcm

 

[Fish77]

And confirmed it’s fully seated?
Dang man I hope you don’t need a pcm

If you do have to get a 98-01 pcm keys/tumbler and pats module all
Matching from same donor… then swap them into the truck. It’s not that hard of a job

I also grab the door locks so I can make the ranger all use the same/one key

Those wires being melted together may have shorted the pcm

It is fully seated, once I got it plugged in and wiggled and jiggled pulling up and pushing back down. I've been kinda leaning towards the PCM but defineltly wanted the opinion of someone with more knowledge that I on this. I have tracked down a complete donor vehicle (rolled Explorer w/5.0) for spare parts for when I break something.

 

[Fish77]

CDW6212R and 410Fortune- I truly do appreciate the help with this. I will post stuff as I get it done. Thanks again Gents!

 

[CDW6212R]

Keep at it, we are glad to help. There are a lot of details with serious swaps, and you have been going at it the right way. Jamie knows almost all of it for many many swaps, I've touched on some with my 99 reconstruction project, and my future 98 project plans.

 

[Fish77]

Well, I found a PCM that has been rebuilt and has had PATs tuned out of it. Was relatively cheap, $200 and is all done in the US. Hopefully, fingers crossed, this cures my ailments. Will report back when I get it in and get it fired up.

 

[410Fortune]

I bet it does
I’ve seen a dead short like that kill pcms a few times then they act all weird

If we think of the pcm as a big power distribution relay (half of it is) then it makes sense that non fused circuits can fry the internals

 

[Fish77]

I bet it does
I’ve seen a dead short like that kill pcms a few times then they act all weird

If we think of the pcm as a big power distribution relay (half of it is) then it makes sense that non fused circuits can fry the internals

It’s too neat of a vehicle to throw the towel in on and there’s people around that say I won’t get it going.
Now with the new pcm not having PATs, I don’t need to remove any of the current PATs stuff because it shouldn’t read it, correct?

 

[410Fortune]

Correct

You already had it running with the pats then you are good to go

The 5.0 pats grounds the fuel ️ ump relay so with it removed you may have to ground the blue/orange wire on the backside of the fuel pump relay ( if you have not already)

 

[Fish77]

Correct

You already had it running with the pats then you are good to go

The 5.0 pats grounds the fuel ️ ump relay so with it removed you may have to ground the blue/orange wire on the backside of the fuel pump relay ( if you have not already)

Gotcha, will get that done prior to getting it all put together again.

 

[Fish77]

Well, didn't work, same condition as before. Any other ideas?

 

[410Fortune]

So different pcm and you grounded the fuel pump relay wire?

Air spark fuel the basics gotta start at square one sometime

 

[Fish77]

So different pcm and you grounded the fuel pump relay wire?

Air spark fuel the basics gotta start at square one someti

Ground the wire from the bottom of the distribution box on the dr side fender?

 

[410Fortune]

Yes
The fuel pump relay on a 98-01
Explorer is grounded by the pats module after it is happy with the security key

The wire is dark Blue with an orange tracer

So in order to bypass pats, or in your case run a “Patsless”pcm you need to run this wire to ground.

Be careful, make sure you get the correct wire, there are two relays that utilize the same color wire (ask me how I know)

So release the pjb from its bracket, remove the bottom cover. Locate fuel pump relay, locate dark blue w orange wire. Cut it… you don’t need the feed from the dash anymore.. and now hook up a short
Lead and run it directly to ground. There is a nice bolt right there behind the pjb on the drivers fender skirt, perfect for this.

Now when you turn the key to start or run you should hear the fuel pump prime. The pcm still controls the fuel pump relay on the power side of things

Hope that helps

 

[Fish77]

I found two blue with orange tracers (looks like they branch off from one) fairly heavy and a light gauge one. That was a quick peak into the harness. tomorrow going to see if I can get the box separated so I can look at the underside and be sure to get the right one.

 

[410Fortune]

Very important to get the correct one
If you currently do not have a fuel pump… this would explain it

You can also access the wire behind the pass airbag at the pats module (if that is where they mounted it on your v8 conversion)

 

[Fish77]

Gotcha, it runs and drives now but the theft light flashes. Already have the glove box out for the mode door replacement so that might be the easier avenue to go after rather than disturbing the whole harness.

 

[410Fortune]

If it runs and drives then you have a fuel pump

 

[Fish77]

If it runs and drives then you have a fuel pump

Yes. No check engine light, trans doesn't shift (all the initial issues) are still present.

 

[410Fortune]

I have a 1998 Ford Ranger someone swapped the 5.0 and trans/transfercase into. I currently have P, R, N and 1 or 2 fwd gears. I changed all the solenoids, A,B and TC, internal harness, output speed sensor (side of trans) still the same. Neutral Safety switch is operational, won't start in anything but N and P. Also, the speedo, O/D light, Check Engine Light, Cruise, ABS and Air Bag light have all quit working (Not so worried about the Air Bag). I'm new to the Ranger/Explorer scene but am mechanically inclined. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

So this is where we are at? No speedo, no check engine light etc?

Sorry I bounce around in a lot of thread so it’s good to keep it fresh of what the issues are

I will look closely at wiring diagrams and see if we can’t find a common link between all of these things. It could just be a instrument cluster issue or power to said cluster or a ground… can always swap with another cluster for testing from similar year