Completed Project 5.0 swap - w/ 4406

[ahodges]

Sorry, didn't see your reply till just now. Whoops.

So by now you realized how the cluster is made of 3 diff pods. They also have different circuitry on the backs of them form year to year. It is more than just the wires in the harness.

Easiest way to see if a pod will work in another cluster or not, is to see if any needles peg out when power is switched on (key on). If none of the needles peg out (maxed) that pod should work.

I went thru this problem myself a while back, and with the help of another member here, I got mine sorted out just as you will.

Thanks for the encouragment! I'll probably need much more help getting all the gauges working right in my explorer when I finally the 5.0 rebuilt and back in the engine bay! I feel like it shouldn't be too bad now that I have a basic understanding of how it works. I'm hoping the extra black wire in the mountaineer's connector is just another ground for the temp gauge. I noticed that the 5.0 has a 2 wire lead for the gauge where the 4.0 only had 1. I would still love to keep my originaly gauge clusters in my explorer (I don't care as much about the mountaineer). So many variables in these things

 

[ahodges]

Well I went to the junkyard today and picked up a sport gas tank, 4406 transfer case from a 97 expedition, rear drive shaft from the same truck, and a front drive shaft from a first gen explorer. I hope I got the right shafts. I went off of V8boatbuilders thread which is why I got the front shaft I did. I was going for the cv joint to reduce vibrations. Something I found weird though is that the rear shaft also has a cv in it! Is that normal?

By the way,the transfer case only has 114k and I got all that I listed for $225. I felt like that was a good deal

 

[ahodges]

Injector Sizing

ok, so it's come to that time where I've entered into the uncharted territory that I can't figure out exactly. I've settled on going over board with this project so here is a quick un-detailed list of what my mods are to the engine:

- Boss 302 engine block
- 347 stroker
- some type of aluminum head (possibly AFR's)
- possibly the X303 cam (or similar)
- the X-charger supercharger designed for the explorers (eaton M-90)
- Walbro 255 fuel pump

Now to the question. What size injectors would I be best off with. I've done the calculations and have come up with numbers in the 47lb/hr range at 40psi but I've also heard that going too big could be bad for control, especially at idle.

- What is the stock fuel pressure?
- Can it be moddified to go higher with a pressure regulator on the return line?
- Should I go with the 47 lb/hr injectors or 42 -44 lb/hr?

 

[rabbit91]

 

[ahodges]

My torque monster headers came on Friday!!

 

[rabbit91]

Wheres the like button

 

[ahodges]

Over the weekend I finished up using POR 15 on the whole underside of my truck on the inside of my frame rails from the engine mounts all the way back to my trailer hitch. It took a long time and a lot of patience but it is done and looks awesome! Now I want to do the outside of the frame to make it all match!
P.S. do NOT get this stuff on your hands, it will not come off with any chemical!

 

[gmanpaint]

Lacquer thinner didn't work?

Should work just as well as the POR-15 thinner/solvent.

 

[ahodges]

Lacquer thinner didn't work?

Should work just as well as the POR-15 thinner/solvent.

Well I tried brake cleaner which was working on the floor and everything as long as the POR was at least tacky. Once it dried I was screwed. I didn't have any lacquer thinner or the POR-15 solvent so I waited until I got to work the next morning to try lacquer thinner and... it didn't work so well. It's starting to wear off slowly..

 

[ahodges]

Fuel Pump Problem

I posted another thread about this too here:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347131

I'm having trouble with installing my Walbro 255 into my stock sending unit. It appears that I have a pump that wasn't designed to go into the plastic basket style pump housing that I have on my 96 4 door truck. I don't want to go into detail about this again since I already did in the other post but basically I found out that in 96 Ford used 3 different sending units in the Explorer. Now, I understand which one I have but they call out a different one for the 2 door models. Since I'm installed a 2 door tank, do I need the 2 door sending unit or not?

I'm pulling my hair out on this one bacause I don't want to waste money on things I don't need/ are wrong.

I want to get a new sending unit since mine is original and getting brittle feeling but I don't want to get one that doesn't fit at the tune of $200 plus possibly buying another Walbro pump.

Any help here would be great because my project is on hold until I get this straightened out.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

this made me scratch my head as well when i did my swap. from what i was able to see, the difference between a 4 door, and 2 door sending unit it the length of the fuel line coming out of the tank on top of the sending unit. can i ask why a 2 door tank? they are smaller, but either mid way, or at the rear of the tank if you are wanting more clearance for your transfer case.

 

[ahodges]

Yeah I got the 2 door tank only because I read on here in some of the electric 4406 swaps it was the only way to fit the shift motor on the back of the T-case. I did some quick measurments and confirmed what I read. Explain what you meant by "mid way, or at the rear of the tank if i want more clearance." I'm confused.

Thanks for the tip on the sending unit. Did you use one with or without a plastic fuel reserve on it?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

when i say "mid way" or "at the rear of the tank", what i mean is this, and i will try to explain it the best i can without confusing the both of us (lol!). when ford made these trucks, they were all the same measurements, until you went beyond either behind the front seats, or the rear portion of the front doors (4 door), from what i can tell. when i did my truck, everyone, or at least a lot of people were saying a 4406 wont fit, because it is a sport (yes, i did a 5L swap, and a 4406 swap all at the same time). reason being, the wheel base is shorter. but, when you think of it, all explorers have the same mounting points for the drivetrain, including the gas tank at the front hanger. where the difference is someplace between the front gas tank mount, and the leaf spring mount. so, when i did my swap, i had the same clearance issues as you 4 door guys do when you do this swap. dont get me wrong, maybe a 4405 might fit, but i have never looked to see, but i can say with confidence, the front of the sport tank will mount in the same spot as your 4 door tank will.

granted, i did cheat a little by modifying the front bracket

i am not sure how big the shift motor is, but i would have to think if its bigger then 2 1/2 inches, you might run out of room.

as for the other question, i used everything that my truck came with from factory, except the fuel pump (used the 5L one), but figured out later, the 4L SOHC one would have worked fine for a relatively stock 5L motor.

 

[christopherjones]

Hey read about your temp sensor problem. You don't need to change gauges. Use the sensor that goes with the dash. I had the same problem. Oddball temps I tried a v8 sensor from the same year but that didn't fix it. It wasn't until I installed the v6 sensor on the v8 engine that my v6 dash reported proper temperature

 

[ahodges]

ok thanks for the suggestion. I should be getting my transmission back this week and once I have the transmission and transfercase ready to go I'll install them and see how much room I'm going to have for the gas tank.

What does anyone think about ordering the sending unit that was made for mexican trucks? The only difference I see is that they didn't have the plastic bucket thing on them. I can't imagine that the resistance would be different for the fuel gauge sensor..

As for the temp gauge, I had to do it the way I did because the V8 temp sensor that I had used a 2 wire feed and the one on the V6 used a singel wire. If I switched the sensors, the wiring harness would not have plugged into it.

 

[christopherjones]

I found only one of the prongs in the sending unit did anything as the v 8 harness only had one wire going to that connector, I ended up carving away the brass from the sender up until I was past the sensor part and spliced on the v6 wire

 

[christopherjones]

Why is it you are using the electric shift transfer case

Was your front axle a live axle or the one with the vacuum solenoid on it?
Did you remember to change to the v8 ps cooler and lines down to the steering box. Don't make the same mistake I did and try to do this after. Way easier without a engines there?

Why are you changing your fuelpumpand sender assy?

 

[ahodges]

Why is it you are using the electric shift transfer case

Was your front axle a live axle or the one with the vacuum solenoid on it?
Did you remember to change to the v8 ps cooler and lines down to the steering box. Don't make the same mistake I did and try to do this after. Way easier without a engines there?

Why are you changing your fuelpumpand sender assy?

I'm using the electric shift transfer case because I has the wiring for it and the vacuum disconnect front axle.

Yep, I already changed out the ps cooler.

I want to change the fuel pump because I am stroking and supercharging the 5.0 so I need bigger fuel pump anyway. Since I'm in there I thought it would be a good idea to change the sender too so I don't have any problems. Any word on Spectra fuel pump assy?

Also, did you change your engine bay wiring harness? I really don't want to because I have so many extra things wired into it. However I found 1 or 2 wires that are different in the main connector.

 

[christopherjones]

All I had to do in terms of wiring was connect the square block that came off the engine to the square block that came from the bay I didn't have to change out the power dust nonsense
However I had to use the v6 alternator and ac harness because the pin outs on the fender harness were completely different

The only difference I found with mine on the square block was that the v8 harness had an input from the fuel sender which body/bay harness did not. And the body/bay harness had the wire for the 4low input to ECM. Which the v8 side did not. I ignored these differences. I did however confirm that the wires all matched up for all the other pins.

If you are using the tcase with the electric shift for the sole purpose of being able to keep the gem for controlling that vacuum solenoid there is a way around all of that.

 

[christopherjones]

http://www.kcpl.lib.in.us/kclib/content.aspx?page=referenceinformation

Is a link to get you to online chiltons manuals

You just have to follow a couple links to get there. But you have to go through this portal. I found it very useful for wiring diagrams and have now successfully splice 4different vehicle/engine combinations.