5.OL shortblock swap

[Flippindabird]

going to the garage now to start disassembly hopefully i can get the oilpan off and have a look at the crank, then see what casting number it is, keep fingers crossed cause he said sometimes you get lucky and its already machined for the other bolt in the later years... its a 90 block so i doubt it, but we will see shortly maybe someone can make this a definitive mustang 5.0L shortblock use thread? since there seems to be some misinformation out there

 

[Flippindabird]

So i pulled the pan and the timing cover(timing cover was a b!Tc# btw) but the rotating assembly looks great! and the casting number on my crank is E7AE-AA can anyone ID that for me because its def not the number the machinist told me to look for, thanks for any help

 

[Flippindabird]

Al from Promar engines told me that part number should be good... ill find out when i got to install it, and worse case scenario i have to pull it back out and break it down to the shortblock then take it in to have the crank drilled, but anyway im thinking if you get the later mustang 5.0L you should be ok just check the crank casting and as long as it doesnt say 2MA or 2MAE you should be good... im going to do some work today i will keep this updated and if i have any problems i will post them

 

[shadowless127]

subscribing to this thread, very interesting.

 

[Flippindabird]

worked for about an hour and got alot of stuff out of the way yesterday, removed the DIS, tagged and removed a bunch of harness plugs and a few vac lines... had a couple of problems, how do i remove the throttle cable from the TB? im thinking i can just unbolt the TB from the intake and hang it up out of the way, but then i may or may not need to replace the gasket, and i was hoping to pull the upper intake off with the tb still attached... and is there an easy way to remove the upper? looks like its gonna be next to impossible to do without the engine being out of the bay, any tips?

 

[Flippindabird]

ok no answer so i removed the throttle body with the cables attatched, is there anyone on these forums that has done this themselves before? i took the intake elbow off for room to get to the upper intake bolts. The egr valve was a real pain... couldnt get enough torque with a 1/4" ratchet and a 10mm long socket, so i removed all the bolts/studs from the elbow, twisted it down and used a 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" drive 10mm socket... probably overkill but it made it EASY, thats about all i had time for today, got a few more plugs off and labeled... ill get some more done monday or tuesday when i get off work

 

[Flippindabird]

6" of snow and some errands kept me from getting over to the garage toady, but i will be there tomorrow, if anyone but me cares

 

[Flippindabird]

ok this is going really slow as ive only had a few mintues to work at a time, but today ive gotten alot more done then usual. BUT... i took 4 bolts out of the upper intake and tried to remove it, wouldnt budge, i hit it a little with a ruber mallet, and it visibly moves side to side, but i cannot get it off... is there a trick? ive never done it before... i tried to pry a little under the front of it but it didnt budge at all... any suggestions?

 

[Dan Whitaker]

There are 2 or 4 more bolts (can't remember which) at the base of the upper intake.

 

[Turdle]

there are 2 more bolts under the cover plate that says 5.0

see the little torx screws? Hope you didn't break your upper plennum, but if it moved with those 2 bolts still tight--ooopsies

 

[Flippindabird]

thanks turdle i should have checked ths thread but i didnt think anyone was watching... finally figured it out by myself lol, the upper is completely removed... next question, i purchased the "fuel line disconnect kit" at autozone, bunch of plastic clips, i put one on the fuel line and pushed in... it def pushes in like its supposed to but the line will not budge, tried it with the ac line too, what do i do after i put the little clip on and push it in??? is there a video for this somewhere? i searched and didnt find it

 

[Turdle]

It is hard to explain, but once you get it you will know the "feel"

You have to push the connector harder together, while inserting the tool. Several " in and out" or "back and forth" motions should get it. You might try spraying a little lube into the connector first.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

Also make sure you have it on the right side. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[Flippindabird]

ok im gonna try again tomorrow and ill spray them ahead of time and then ill go back later and "in and out" ill post again tomorrow with the results

 

[gear_grinder]

so you bought an internaly forged shortblock for your wifes vehical?

i think your going to run into compression losses down the road alot sooner then you might expect. The forged are strong, but the their thermal expantion is terrible. you'll get piston slap, startup smoke, and exessive blowby much sooner then with a hypereutectic pistion short block. You can make the forged last longer, but you have to let it warm up a bit everytime befor you take off (to let the pistons gather heat expand). This is the main problem with people that dont understand engines is the rip on a ice cold engine and wonder why it "clanks" when they first start it in the morning. Aother thing is that the pistion side clearance will be greater in all aspects so their is "less to ware" untill its wore out again. Unless your building something with crazy power forged pistons are not usualy needed IMO.

you can just swap the ballencer and front cover form a 302, they are 50oz ballenced (just use the matching flexplate), you'll need to put the explorer filter pedistal/oil cooler on using a 13/16" socket (big sparkplug socket), the explorer engine mounts, explorer block plate, etc... It works just fine, i swaped an 86 block and crank into my 97 with no problems (not with the actual parts anyway)

just my 2cents

 

[Flippindabird]

thanks for the confirmation gear grinder... ill let my wife know to warm it up before she drives, she wont be beating on it though so that should help a little, i got a good deal on the forged block, the newer hypereutectics w/ the little baby explorer camshaft were double what i paid, so cost really decided for me.

i didnt get a chance to get over to the truck today, im in the process of moving to a new home so the truck took a back seat to some other things i had to get done, should be able to get at it friday after work... thanks again everybody

 

[Flippindabird]

in and out wont work, i wanna try a different tool, sure wish there was a video for this somewhere

 

[Flippindabird]

these plastic things suck, the lines will not budge... towed to my new garage today, after i finish moving my stuff in ill be able to put more time in on it... if anyone is in the area and can help for beer/pizza or both lol pm me

 

[Flippindabird]

stuck at these fuel lines is anyone in the area interested in helping me finish this project i can pay a couple hundred bucks, come to my garage use my tools, my help and get this swap done in a weekend pm me i got so much other stuff goin on i just wanna get this project behind me so i can work on more important stuff, like my racecar

 

[Flippindabird]

so i finally bought the metal fuel line disconnect tool... ive been really busy with other things so this project has taken a back seat for a while but im tired of looking at it sit so im back on it, im working days a week now 120 hours/week 2 different jobs so i dont have alot of time but im going to get a nice long stretch off very soon, and i hope to finish dissassembling this thing so i can get the heads to the machinist for porting and rebuild... but anyway i doubt anyone is even paying attention but, could these lines be siezed?? and does ford service the lines?? like if i cut them can i just buy new ones??