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5.OL shortblock swap




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sprayed the lines all down with PB blaster for 3 days in a row, moved them around then let them sit... finally yesterday i got ALL of them DC'd... got the radiator completely out(wtf does ford put so many clips on it?) started on the engine mount bolts... does anyone know a trick for this?? used an 18 mm long socket(only thing that fit ) and a 1/2" breaker on the front bolt... when i got to the rear bolt(pass side) i rounded it off a little and didnt have the clearance to use the breaker so i eneded up with a 3/8" drive long socket and reg ratchet with a cheater bar... NOTHING... its just one thing after another with this thing im glad theres no pressure to get it done right away, if anyone has any pointers PLEASE let me know... how the hell do u get to the collector bolts on the manifolds?? this thing is nuts i have no idea why ppl swap engines in these things :rolleyes:
 






Welcome to our world--:cool:

For the inboard collector bolt on the passenger side manifold I recommend a cut off wheel or sawzall. You can try a wobble extension on a swivel ratchet, but you will probably want to replace those bolts anyway.

Have you tried to remove the bolts under the engine mount plates? This may be an easier way for you to separate the engine from the frame.
 






no i didnt turdle, i saw the bolts up top and figured "there they are"... your saying i should just remove the ones from the block then?? can i get to those easily from underneath?? is there anything i should just remove before its even in my way? kind of looks to me like the steering shaft is in the way on the drivers side... anyone have a thread with detailed pics of their disassembly that i missed with my search?
 






Yeah-get the steering shaft out of there-be sure to lock the steering wheel first though as to not damage the clock spring.

You "should" be able to just remove the top steering shaft bolt and then swing it down out of the way without actually removing the other end from the steering box.
 






ok thanks turdle ill def do that when i get off work friday
 






i got the steering shaft dc'd like you said worked perfect thanks for that... now gonna try the collector bolts, i tried to do the mount bolts, took nut off the front pass side where the mount connects to the frame, after doing so, and trying to get the back one out, i though "maybe i can get to the mounts on the block?" a friend suggested i jack it up and take the wheel off... is that how everyone does it??? thanks for any help
 






btw my friend is kind of a mustang guru... hes porting my heads and stock intake lower... he asked me to find out the stock cam specs because he thinks the Ecam will be "lame" and thinks the ecam isnt an upgrade from stock, i told him i didnt think i could go too much bigger without a higher stall converter... also what was the hp rating on this engine stock? i know its very similar to the 93 cobra which was rated at 240 and 325 tq with a much better exhaust system, also has anyone replaced the DIS with a distributor? or is there a way to advance/ retard the timing manually or is it ABSOLUTELY controlled by the ecm... does anyone do custom tunes for these??? anyone with a similar combo?
 






James does custom tunes yes-

www.hensonperformance.com

Also yes, go in through the wheel well opening for easiest access. Be sure to support the vehicle well on jack stands.
 






will it run ok without a tune until i can get it done, and is henson mail order tune?? im in northeastern PA and i wont be able to drive it down to them btw will hptuners work for this truck? im going to buy it for my 02 chevy and i figure if itll work for the mounty i can tune it myself for $50 more
 






Yes, it should. The e cam has been used by several guys with good results and no tuning, however tuning will get more out of it.

Stock is approx 215 hp 335 torque
 






good info turdle thanks... when i know the right way to do it i guess this thing isnt all that bad, jacked up the pass side, got all the exhaust manifold bolts out with a 10" ext 14mm swivel socket and an impact gun... then got the engine mount bolts the same way then did the drivers side the same way, but the mounts were a little tougher on that side and had to get the ones on the frame :( but itll work
 






basically i got to disconnect the tranny and then she can come out... and maybe if im lucky i can get everything back together and she'll be running by the end of this weekend... any tips on the tranny disconnect procedure?
 












thanks again turdle! btw what if you cant get the top bolt out of the stater lol??? i should just pm you it doesnt look like anyones paying attention anyway... i guess when a project takes this long its hard to stay interested lol but i had alot of other stuff going on and working 100 hours a week for several months... now im down to 72:D with a 5 day weekend starting friday!!!!
 












its tight up there and i couldnt get the socket to sit on the bolt right(big fat hands) no room to beat the socket on, i tried the swivel socket with the same result... maybe a rathcet wrench?? is that bolt a 13 or 14mm btw i forgot what i was trying to use
 






thanks again turdle! btw what if you cant get the top bolt out of the stater lol??? i should just pm you it doesnt look like anyones paying attention anyway... i guess when a project takes this long its hard to stay interested lol but i had alot of other stuff going on and working 100 hours a week for several months... now im down to 72:D with a 5 day weekend starting friday!!!!

I'm paying attention. I just have nothing to add at the moment.
 






ok thanks snoranger i appreciate you letting me know your out there!
 



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others are watching

. . . i should just pm you it doesnt look like anyones paying attention anyway... i guess when a project takes this long its hard to stay interested lol . . .

Just because only a half dozen individuals have posted on this thread doesn't mean nobody else is paying attention. The thread has been viewed more than 1,600 times. I am very interested in what you're doing since I hope at some point to replace the SOHC V6 in my Sport with a V8.

To answer an earlier question, Ford Windsor engines have had roller cams since 1985.
 






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