How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[Glacier991]

Hey DI ! Great. Thanks for posting feedback. It will give others the confidence to undertake repairs on their own!

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Yeah, congrats on fixing it, DI. Real world results are what counts.

This thread of Glaciers should be invaluable to many, since the 5R55E seems to be plagued with shifting flares as time goes by.....

 

[Glacier991]

I will add a section to this thread (or posts to it somewhere anyway) on the various solenoids so people know which one is which. Otherwise it's pretty well done, but curiously, not in the Useful Threads forum <hint>. I suggested it but to no avail. Others may want to if you think it is helpful. Otherwise it will sink into the ooze of more threads on top of it.

[EDIT]

Ok here are the solenoids in the valve body - on one side there are 4 in a bank.... one of which (TCC) is held down by a bolt, the rest are held solely by the bracket.... so in order.... here we go.... EPC

next to it is the SSB or Shift Solenoid 2

next to that is the CCS or SSD or Shift Solenoid 4

and on the end with the tab, the TCC solenoid

directly across from the TCC is the SSC, or Shift Solenoid 3

and finally, near the low reverse servo cover, is our last one - SSA or Shift Solenoid 1.

 

[Glacier991]

Zippee, is your 97 OHV or SOHC ? I need to know for the correct separator plate.

 

[zippee]

Sohc.

 

[scott_gunn]

How much should we expect to pay a reputable shop to do this for us? I have a 2002 XLT with the 2-3 shift flare.

 

[Glacier991]

"How much should we expect to pay a reputable shop to do this for us?"

By "this" do you mean the rebuild as I demonstrated it, or just adding the Ford Mod and new separator plate? I wish Eneurb was around, he could probably give us the Labor detail that Ford uses. I would think the labor for the FORD mod should be around 3-4 hours (to the public, for warranty I bet FORD reimburses them an hour or so less). You could probably add another hour to 1.5 to do all the rest, so (mind you this is practically a wild guess) say around 5 - 6 hours times the shop rate, plus the cost of the parts. I'm thinking this should set a clear HIGH side. Low would probably be around 3.5 to 4 hours.

I am no expert on shop rates and shop times, so take that into consideration as you review this post. Others may be better able to advise you.

 

[scott_gunn]

Well, I read through the thread and got kinda lost (due to my own ignorance), but I think what I would want would just be the Transgo or Superior valve body rebuild, right? I just want to get rid of the 2-3 flare.

 

[Glacier991]

I have one for sale in the "For Sale" section. You'd only have to pay someone to install it. or, alternately, install it yourself.

 

[hunterdan]

I just got done finishing up the installation of the superior kit. It went well, and works great. Only had 1 minor problem. I didnt hook the manual valve up. Glacier diagnosed why the tranny didnt engage in any gear, and walked me through it. Took me about an hour to finish it this morning. Overall the superior kit can be installed in anyones driveway in about 4-6 hours. The tranny shifts really well now. You can feel the shifts and when you really get on it, you can really feel the shifts. I really recommend the kit. The main reason I did the install was because a shop quoted me $350 to install it, so I did it myself and am glad I did. And I would recommend having a service manual for the trans, I didnt have one, but it would have helped with taking the valvebody out and putting it back in. But its not really necessary if your mechanically inclined. Thanks again glacier.

Dan

 

[Glacier991]

Thanks for posting Dan. Glad you're happy! A couple notes... it is REALLY easy in your thrill of getting the valve body installed to forget the "minor" detail of hooking up the manual valve as you fit the VB back into the transmission. If that isn't hooked up, you will be a NO GO. (or worse only a go in the position the manual valve happens to be in when you install the VB. I've done it. Hank's done it, Dan's done it....in fact lots of us have done it... so...REMEMBER TO HOOK UP THE MANUAL VALVE.

Also the quote of $350 is pretty much in line with my guestimate based on shop rates above. That wasn't really a terrible quote. It is just a fact of life that paying someone else to do auto work is not cheap.

I'll end by commenting on the fact that proper torquing of the VB and new gaskets are essential. Just a reminder.

 

[zhanx]

glacier991 since i am back and can start thinking about the trany again how does this sound to fix it. (got a 2-3 flare just so you remember).

Transgo Shift kit
updated bracket from the like first or second pages
Sonnex Boost Valve Kit
the book (the atsg or whatever name it is)
and of course add a remote cooler to the works..
(will be spreading the stuff or over 3 or 4 paychecks)

i need to learn on this one.. and the next one i do will be a complete rebuild for a supercharged and heavly mod'ed 4.0 oh yea what are your thoughts on synthics?

 

[Glacier991]

The transgo kit, as a single kit is a good choice. I am not as excited about the Boost Valve on this as I am the A4LD but concur it is an ok mod..... the new bracket is only gonna set ya back $7..... course you will need new sep plate gaskets too (about $10 the pair)... and for longevity, nothing beats a extra cooler. So you have my blessing on your choices (g). You might want to put a drain plug in the pan, and then later when yer feeling rich, replace the EPC around 80-100,000 miles, without taking the ATF bath.

 

[zhanx]

since i am at 120,000 on the tranny the epc is still good.. should i add that to the list .. or wait and do it on my donor trany that i will be doing the complete rebuild on.. expect a few emails on it. since i am doing the vb upgrade on this tranny anything else you would do? and dont worry i am mechinally inclined so i should be able to handle it ( the donor is going to be a bullet proof upgrade i hope)

 

[Glacier991]

Nothing wrong with waiting. I suspect that the EPC is one of those things that fail early on some and way later on others.... but I accept the advice to replace it in a rebuild. (which assumes you may NEVER be going back in).

 

[zhanx]

me never go back in? what? thats like saying you''ll never touch a tranny again.. i may pull it part just to make sure it looks like i put it back together right

 

[ThunderB]

I was quoted around $300 by my local Ford dealer for the 3-22-10 tsb. Sounds like a fair price by comparison. It also comes with a 12/12k warranty.

Thanks for taking the time to explain all 3 options. You made it much clearer to me. Sounds like something I could do myself if I had a lift, 4 hours, and didn't mind a Mercon bath.

 

[Glacier991]

Using the Rotunda Transmission Tester - 5R55E Style

Well, I was finishing up a 5R55E valve body and thought for grins I'd show you what the FORD Transmission tester can do for you... without even dropping the pan.... I realize you don't have one but your dealer does, and those guys should know how to use em. It helps to know what they can do, and might save you some frustration and put you on an equal footing with a service writer someday to see it. If you are crazy like I am, you can buy one of these puppies on E-bay for between $275 and $400.

The 5R55E trannie, like all modern FORD trannies has an external plug that hooks up to the internal electronic components (mainly solenoids, and in some cases speed sensors and temp sensors)... although this one in this post is hooked up to a valve body, if it were in the car, the valve body would be inside the transmission and the connector would be on the external case, where you could hook up to it without dropping the pan. Clean and easy. Here we are hooked up to the external part of the harness

and on the other end is the tester

The overlay is for the 4R55 but it works equally on the 5R55. The tester can be used to actually drive the transmission as it is on the road... replacing the computer, or it can be used in a "bench" mode to test electronic components. We are in "bench mode".

Notice that the bench mode has a selection of solenoids to test, whereas the drive mode selects actual gears. The 5R55E has 6 solenoids.... 4 shift (one called variously the Coast Clutch solenoid) a torque convertor clutch solenoid and an EPC solenoid.

We can test each using this tester, without taking anything apart except to hook up the umbilical. We can also test wiring for shorts (in another thread here, left out for now). So to start, we have selected shift solenoid 1 on the bench test mode...

Notice the red button saying "Activate" and "click test"? Well when we push that, we hear an audible click in the solenoid.... and the green light shows us continuity

We can do the same for SS2

and SS3

now we have 3 left. The 4th shift solenoid (CCS as it is referred to, but is it really SS4) the TCC solenoid and the EPC.... those are on the top of the tester....First the TCC

next the CCS

and finally the EPC. The EPC may not click, the rest should make an audible click...the EPC has a myriad of positions and hence a single electrical jab may not move it far enough to make a click.... don't worry..

Ok we know they have continuity.... we can also check them for their internal resistance....(as well as the wiring etc as I mentioned previously)... so let's check them. Now we set the tester to ohms check

lets start on the top, the TCC first

11 ohms, right in range. Next up the CCS, remember this is a Shift solenoid, of which there are 4....

27 ohms, perfect. (as will be the rest). Then the EPC.... a different beast

5 Ohms... this is a brand new one. So it is good!, now 3 shift solenoids... 1,2 and 3

1

2

3

I have not shown the balance of the wiring tests, but suffice it to say you can test each wire for a short to ground. Some of you will appreciate this... it is an easy way to look into to transmission electrical. Hope this was instructive.

 

[KaiserM715]

Parts, Prices, Dealers

I had noticed that someone several posts earlier (page 3, maybe) had asked about what parts cost and where to get them. As I am going to be doing this update myself along with my 60k mile service, I have found most of what I need with the exception of the Sonnax Boost valve. I assume that everyone has been talking about getting the increased ratio valve, so that is what I will list here. I have compiled most of the actual manuf. part numbers. By the way, I am shopping for a 2000 Ranger 4x4 4.0L, so the parts you need may vary.

Here is what I will be getting from Ford Parts Network (Note: FOMOCO P/Ns):
3L5Z-7M203-JA, Install Kit, $13.68
1L5Z-7Z490-FA, Valve Body Separator (for my truck, others are different), $19.61
XL2Z-7L491-AA, Revised bracket, $5.82
I could not find the P/Ns for these on Ford Parts Network, but they are pretty easy to locate on their site:
Pan Gasket, Ranger; $11.47
Filter, Ranger, 5R55E, 5R44E, 4WD; $25.67

Here is what I will be getting from Teal Automotive, Inc.:
K4R/5R55E, Superior Shift Kit, $28

Again, I have not been able to find the Boost Valve. These prices are based on my own research and should be verified for your application. If anyone sees anything that I have left off or of a better dealer (I would like to use as few dealers as possible), let me know. Does anyone know if any instruction sheets are included with any of the Ford parts? Is there a Ford P/N for the factory service manual? Is it available from Ford Parts Network?

I hope this info helps some people out in "guesstimating" the price for all of the parts.

Thanks in advance for the answers to my questions!!

When I get this done, I hope to post some pics to compliment those from Glacier.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

Does anyone know if any instruction sheets are included with any of the Ford parts?

Kaiser, welcome to the forum. I'll answer this one; the Ford revised parts have excellent illustrated instructions included. (say that 3 times fast )

The Superior kit instructions will ask you to drill into your brand new separator plate. This made me slightly nervous, but I did it and the trans shifted fine afterward.

I used an ATSM manual from Makco Dist, part no. TM5R55E @ $16. This manual is very complete, although a Ford factory manual would probably be better......?

I think Glacier hinted that the Sonnax boost valve is not as necessary in the 5R, and I would agree. I think it solves a bore wear problem that the A4LD has, and the 5R dosen't have. I didn't add it to mine, however I did install a new EPC solenoid. (The old one had about 55K on it, and I did have the 2-3 flare.)

One tip that I'll share: Get a cardboard box bottom and draw a template of the new separator plate, showing the location of the bolt holes. Punch out the bolt holes in the cardboard. When removing the plate bolts, place them in the corresponding holes in the box template. This keeps them organized, and will make reassembly MUCH easier and faster. There are about 4-5 different bolt lengths, and they must be installed in the correct holes.

Good luck,
ROE