How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[tlcfordtrans]

5r55e valve body wiring harness

1996 Ford Rear wheel drive 4x4

My wiring harness and wires were so brittle when I took it apart it exposed the wires so if they contacted it would short out so I just went ahead and soldered new wires to the whole harness taking it apart one wire at a time but i did not get a photo of how solenoids and harness went to what.So is their a diagram to show where each wire went I know solenoid placement just want to be sure about the wiring.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! This link might help you: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2363070&postcount=14

 

[brihan]

I have purchased a rebulit valve body. I'm looking for just the R&R directions for the valve body not the not the valve body rebuild.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for just the Valve Body R&R?

Thank you!

Brian

 

[BK_89iX]

I have purchased a rebulit valve body. I'm looking for just the R&R directions for the valve body not the not the valve body rebuild.

Can anyone point me in the right direction for just the Valve Body R&R?

Thank you!

Brian

Somewhere in the thread here is a link to a pdf from the factory manual that has a pretty good set of directions.

BK

 

[pgilbeau]

I have a 96 Ranger 4 x 4 with the 4R55E and am having problems with the transmission. When I drive it seems to shift hard and make the truck jerk forward, it even seems to shift when I am not expecting it too. A couple days ago it started doing it real bad and then the O/D light started flashing. When this has happened I have generally been driving at highway speed for 30+ minutes. the first thing that will normally happen is I will see the O/D Off light begin to flash, once that comes on the truck will begin to shift very hard. The first couple times after I got where I was going and turned the truck off it was fine the next time it was started (like it reset). This last time I started it up the next day and it is still shifting very hard, however the O/d Off light is not on. I checked the fluid and it seems to be fine and does not smell burnt. This has happened three times I can remember but is becoming more frequent. I have not driven the truck since and I am planning to do the Ford TSB and replace the EPC solenoid. I have read most of this thread and was wondering what is the best current set of mods to do (i.e. Ford TSB and what)? Also is there more then 1 TSB?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The hard shifts are due to the system going into the "limp mode" (FMEM). Don't continue to drive it. Pull the codes to see what is going on before you replace any parts.

 

[markogman]

I would like to thank all for the great info on the 5r55e transmission. I had shift flare and shop wanted 500.00 bucks to fix. I found a great deal at USA transmission partz on ebay, 120.00 bucks rebuilt and updated with all 6 solenoids. Truck runs great shift's better than before. From what I could tell with plate already on with gasket included it looks like ford update. I know some dont like ebay but this guy is dependable, had parts in 2 days. Once agian thanks for all the good info.

 

[pgilbeau]

I tried to pull codes twice, all I get is " no DTC's stored." I don't know much on troubleshooting this but figured doing a valve body rebuild would help. I am almost certain my code reader will do transmission codes, it is an Innova 3120.

 

[eaglewrench]

Help - Shift sequence off

I replaced my valve body with a rebuilt one from Central Valve Body. Also, I replaced the intermediate and overdrive servos at the side of the trans. I put new seals on the low/reverse servo.

Everything seems to work perfectly unless I accelerate above 2500RPM. Over 2500 it will not shift 1-2 unless I back off the accelerator to allow it to shift. Also, once in high, if I accelerate hard to get downshift it revs high, but only when traveling under 60MPH. Over 60, no kick down! O/D light is flashing, but overdrive works properly when I engage/disengage with switch on shifter.

Is this a programing issue? How do I correct it? Thank you!

 

[BrooklynBay]

You should adjust the bands when you replace the servos. Find out what the code numbers are since the O/D light is flashing.

 

[eaglewrench]

Codes are 335 EGR, and 647 Incorrect 3rd Gear Ratio

Thank you!

 

[BobK]

1997 Ranger 4x4 XLT, 5R55E transmission.

While 4-wheeling in the beautiful Rockies, I needed engine breaking on a steep decline in 4 Low. I shifted from Drive to 1st. The transmission properly engaged manual 2nd and then manual 1st as soon as it was able. RPMs were around 4500 rpm when the transmission engaged 1st gear. Everything worked fine.

Several minutes later, the CEL came on (later determined to be P1762, Overdrive Band Failed Off). The transmission shifted properly for the next several hours, including Overdrive. I reset the code to see if it would re-appear. The next day, the CEL came back on and while in Drive, the transmission doesn't appear to be using 1st gear. It just mopes along in 2nd gear (apparently) until it gets up to a typical 2nd gear speed. It will then shift to 3rd properly.

Using this thread, I performed only TSB 03-22-10 several years ago. I did not change any other parts. The transmission has worked flawlessly since then, including a few instances of heavy towing. Yet that TSB appears to be the only one to reference P1762.

I reset the CEL again and the code has not returned. However, the truck still seems to have no 1st gear.

What do you think my problem is?

EDIT
-----------------------
I ended up popping 6 more codes! I spent a couple days digging as deeply as I could into the valve body. Here's a list of the things I did. I didn't find any smoking guns, but whatever I did fixed the problem. Because every solenoid circuit showed a failure, my money's on the tarnished connector pins. Thank you for the wealth of info throughout this site. I'd venture to guess I saved around $500 in troubleshooting.

DTCs set in association with transmission problems:

• P0750—Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
• P0751—Shift Solenoid A CKT Performance or Stuck Off
• P0755—Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
• P0756—Shift Solenoid B CKT Performance or Stuck Off
• P0760—Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
• P0765—Shift Solenoid D Malfunction
• P1762—Manufacturer Control Transmission (O/D Band Fail Off)

Valve body solenoid resistance:

• EPC—4.5 Ohms
• SS2—25.8 Ohms
• SS4—25.5 Ohms
• TCC—9.9 Ohms
• SS1—25.7 Ohms
• SS3—25.4 Ohms

Other Checks:

• Activated shift solenoids with 12v for 10 seconds each. All “clicked” normally and held the proper position.
• Blew compressed air through shift solenoids to check for debris.
• Valve body solenoid o-rings O.k.
• Checked electrical continuity on wiring harness. All o.k. Also checked each pin against all others to check for short circuits. All o.k.
• Cleaned pins on external electrical connector. Some buildup noted on pins, enough to cause a couple continuity problems while checking with voltmeter unless the buildup was first scratched off.
• Added dielectric grease to pins.
• Removed & inspected connector/pins at connector next to shift linkage. Added dielectric grease to female connector.
• Transmission Fluid Temperature thermistor (in EPC connector) is 34K Ohms at 65°F and decreases properly when heat is applied.
• Turbine Speed Sensor—71.8 Ohms
• Valve body separator plate and gasket o.k.
• Inspected solenoid brackets. No incipient cracks.
• Only slight gray residue over internal parts and on fluid pan magnet. No other debris noted.
• Tightened Intermediate and Overdrive bands
• Swapped position of SS1 and SS2.
• Tightened 3 torx bolts on separator plate to 95 lb-in. Bolts did tighten a little.
• Reinstalled valve body & brought bolts up to 95 lb-in in three passes.
• Removed and inspected PCM connector and pins.
• Removed and inspected square connector and pins near EGR valve.
• Removed & inspected all diodes, relays, and fuses in under hood junction box.
• Removed & inspected all fuses in cab junction box.
• Tightened 3 visible grounding points in engine bay

 

[roverz]

Ok here is a totally newbie question can the valve body rebuild be done without dropping the transmission? My understanding or assumption is that the transmission fluid plan can be dropped off and then the solenoids and vb come out with the case of the transmission and gears still in the truck.

 

[BobK]

Ok here is a totally newbie question can the valve body rebuild be done without dropping the transmission? My understanding or assumption is that the transmission fluid plan can be dropped off and then the solenoids and vb come out with the case of the transmission and gears still in the truck.

Yes to all.

 

[IronIndian]

:notworthy Talk about the holy grail thread for these transmissions! It took me 2 days to fully read all 27 pages and I still have questions I've got a 96 Explorer 4.0 with the 4r44e. I'm planning on getting a vb with the solenoids off ebay to reduce down time. My question is what color EPC should I have- red or green? If I get the wrong color, will that affect my chances on a positive outcome? Also, I've read there are 3 updates (or upgrades) you can do to these VBs- the Ford, Transgo, and Superior...I believe the VB off ebay comes with the Ford update already, so what shift kit is more complete- the Superior of Transgo? Any info is greatly appreciated guys...

 

[BrooklynBay]

Your EPC solenoid has a green band filter. The performance curve is different between the red & green band EPC solenoids. You don't have inductive signature like the later models.

 

[Macgiobuin]

Hi Brooklyn. Just got a '97 Aerostar 3.0 2wd 4r44e. No go in D, (whines but does not engage) goes forward in 2, even shifts at least once. No codes. Prior owner told me it broke when she was trying to rock it out of snow. I just pulled valve body expecting to see a blown VB gasket, but they look good. Any ideas?

Update: The one-way clutch went bad. The plastic cage that holds the one-way pivots melted and actually caused the sprag to be lubricated with melted nylon spinning both ways. Of course I had to extract and disassemble to its barest parts, but the bad part was obvious. According to the clutch array the one way clutch grabs in 1 and in D when the trans is in 1st. It would not go in 1 or from a start in D. But it would go in 2 and then it would go into 3rd or 4th if I shifted from 2 to D after I hit 30 mph. I just had to shift it into 2 when going from a zero start. Anyway reassembled with new seals and gaskets, and it is a solid go now.
-Macgiobuin

 

[IronIndian]

BB thanks for pizza info on pizza EPC! Im going to request that my VB come with a green EPC...What shift kit (superior or transgo) is more compatible with pizza Ford update? Does anyone have pizza specs on ohm readings for each solenoid? I'd like to test each of pizzam when i drop pizza VB out of pizza go go wagon...

 

[CDW6212R]

BB thanks for pizza info on pizza EPC! Im going to request that my VB come with a green EPC...What shift kit (superior or transgo) is more compatible with pizza Ford update? Does anyone have pizza specs on ohm readings for each solenoid? I'd like to test each of pizzam when i drop pizza VB out of pizza go go wagon...

Those three VB kits/updates are intended to do the same thing, all three. Pick one and go with it. The Ford updates require a different gasket or plate for each model. The Superior or Transgo kits are intended to work on all models of 5R55E. I chose the TransGo VB kit, most have used the Ford parts. Superior is the newest of the group, I've used TransGo stuff since before Superior existed.

 

[IronIndian]

Hey Don, thanks for clearing up the mud for me! I'm talking with an ebay vendor and he's telling me that his Ford surplus 5R55e VB will work in my 4R44e in my 96 explorer. He also states that the red EPC is the upgraded version of the green EPC and that the red EPC will work for my application. Is this guy blowin smoke and just trying to make a sale?