How to: 5R55E Valve Body Rebuild Diary

[nolongerjips]

This would KILL ME if that was the only issue!! GRRRR!!!!!! Maybe I should drop the valve body, order a new one (and an extra gasket), install it. Button it back up, test, and then if it proves to be the case - yay! Problem solved. If not, drop pan again, remove new valve body, use extra gasket on replacement tranny and install new vb and gasket on new tranny and problem solved again.

What if!?? Ok though - I have scorched fluid (dark brown) - does that indicate other problems?

 

[BrooklynBay]

before you make a big job out of it, check the corners of the valve body for signs of deterioration. Check the solenoid bracket for cracks. If it looks fine, then check each bolt with a 1/4" drive In/Lb torque wrench. After this, install a new filter with O rings, fluid, and test it. I have a feeling that it will work. It's possible that the EPC might need to be replaced, but let's just see if it works first before investing a lot of parts into it.

 

[nolongerjips]

wow. Come to thing of it - there were no o-rings with/on the filter either. Perhaps they deteriorated, or are lost in the fluid.

I'ma try it!

I was hoping to take pictures of the whole process to add to the sticky for a 5r55e 2nd gen removal - and still may - but either way will update.

 

[BrooklynBay]

The O rings might be caught in the valve body. Check the area where the filter connects.

 

[Dakota_Don]

was there a lot of clutch material in the pan? if not then this what i would do first is, drop the vb clean it or replace it with a reman with tested sol, replace VB gasket.. the bolt that fell out, new filter and refill with merc v.. then see if that helps or eliminates the problem..

 

[nolongerjips]

there was almost no material in the bottom of the pan. Trying to figure a way to qauntify it. Maybe 1/3 the size of a dime's worth of debris. I was thinking there'd be trash all in the bottom. Thoughts? about to go work on it now

 

[CDW6212R]

If it was running with the filter off, and the fluid isn't really clean, I'd bet the VB needs some attention.

I agree that the trans may not be hurt, but with that mileage it does need some work regardless. If there was no error code, I'd do as little as possible first, pull the VB and try to clean what can be easily, install and test. If it tests decent I'd then do the VB upgrades and install at least a new EPC, adjust the bands, and drive it. If the first test doesn't go well, then it probably hurt the frictions etc enough to need rebuilding.

My point is that the VB needs upgrading, absolutely every single 5R needs that, brand new or rebuilt or old. They all need it, so plan to do that to either the one in the truck, or the replacement. But don't do that to the old one until you believe that the hard parts(frictions/steels/bands etc) are still good. It definitely needs new fluid, filter and gaskets now, but the EPC and debris inside is a big unknown. Pull the VB and see how bad it is first. Good luck,

 

[nolongerjips]

VB was torqued down properly so I pulled the trans. Turns out my replacement is a 5r55w (or s). I thought they looked real similar (from laying on my back) but I knew there was something not right. I bought it blind from a ford dealer for $100 so no loss at all really there. Anyone need a 55w? North Alabama.

So - I am going to price rebuild kits and do it myself and/or try to barter/trade my 5r55w w local trans shops in attempt to see if they will rebuild it for me. If you look several posts prior - you will see where I was trying to id the trans I bought. I'm happy none the less.

So - Do I need to do the full on rebuild w clutch bands and all? or prob just sols and vb? Before it finally quit working I had to put in 2nd, then upshift to drive, and reverse was slipping bad where you had to get 1500 plus rpms before reverse would work. I think it totally quit working when the filter vibrated/fell out of the vb and into the pan, and couldn't suck fluid anymore. It's been a weird one

 

[CDW6212R]

Below is are pictures of a transfer case(BW4410) that would bolt to any 5R55W or S model. Does the back of that trans look like this or not? The 5R55W is only for 2002 or newer models, I doubt it would simply bolt into a 2000 model truck.

 

[nolongerjips]

the back of the would be replacement trans looks like that - yes. It is clearly a 5r55w/s. No bones about it - and it would bolt up to that transfer case pictured there. There's no way (without fabrication) that this would fit in a second gen, much less the 2nd gen transfer case.

 

[CDW6212R]

Interesting. I took those pictures of the later AWD because I was trying to find out if it could be used in my 99 truck. The 98-01 PCM controls for the trans are too different to work on the 5R55W, so I gave up on that idea years ago.

 

[whiteTtype]

Great thread just installed the transgo kit in the wifes Explorer nice quick shifts no banging and the 2-3 flare is gone.

 

[wdmichael]

Hello -

I'm new to the forum but thought I'd ask the old hands a quick question. Sorry if this has been asked and answered but I looked and couldn't find it.

I have a 1999 Eddie Bauer that's exhibiting the 2-3 flare. Based on what I've read, I'm going to replace the valve body with one from Central Valve Body.

I'm going to replace it at a local military auto hobby shop and want to make sure I have what I need with me (once I have the old VB off, I'm not going to be able to go pick up anything!). Here's what I think I need:

1. VB
2. Separator Plate (with bonded gaskets, ideally). I understand this comes with the VB from CVB.
3. Reverse servo gasket
4. Pan gasket
5. Filter

Anything else - either a "must have," nice to have or that I should have on hand?

What's the best source for the 5R55E ATSG?

Thanks in advance.

Bill

 

[2000StreetRod]

preparations

Make sure the hobby shop has a lb-in torque wrench. You'll also need a template to keep track of where the valve body bolts go:

 

[whiteTtype]

8 liters (quarts) of Mercon V. Personally I'm Scottish I just reused my separator plate and installed the transgo kit with the rivet in the separator plate. It cost me about $ 120.00 all in including the fluid. 4 hours of my time at its right as rain better than when I bought it.

 

[wdmichael]

Thanks, 2000StreetRod and WhiteTtype.

The cereal box template looks great. I'm checking for an inch-lb torque wrench but will likely just buy this one: http://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Industrial-Tools-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000H43VU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290973613&sr=8-1


WhiteTtype - where did you get buy your transgo kit and separator plate gaskets?

Has anyone used the alignment pins that Ford specifies for the valve body replacement? $80 for the set is steep but if it keeps me from dropping the pan again, they might be worth it.

I'm hoping to pull it off in 4 hours but I tend to be slow at these things.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[whiteTtype]

local parts store they had all my parts in over night. I didn't bother with the alignment tool a little fluid to hold the top gasket in place and away I went. When i rebuilt the 200R4 in my Ttype I dipped the plate gaskets in clean fluid prior to installing the plate.

 

[wdmichael]

I'll try Advance Auto Parts; I've had good luck with them.

Who did you use, whiteTtype?

 

[whiteTtype]

I'll try Advance Auto Parts; I've had good luck with them.

Who did you use, whiteTtype?

My local Auto Parts Plus outlet its called Baker Auto.

 

[bikrboyr6]

Hi all, Sorry for hopping in on the tranny questions! I have a 97 4.0 SOHC With a D code under the TR on the door sticker. I believe that makes it a 5R55E? Yesterday I recieved the OD flash. I scanned it with a OBDII reader and came up with code P0741. I understand the code could mean something simple like a flush or something much bigger. Ive been reading lots of posts on the forum but cant decide how to handle the problem.

I reset the code for now, but want to squash the problem now rather than later. I checked the fluid and appears its in need of a flush (Brown and a little burnt smelling). I have only owned the truck for a year. It has approx. 204,000 on the odometer. I installed a replacement motor with 100,000 on it maybe 15,000 miles ago. No idea if trans has ever been rebuilt or serviced for that matter.

My question is what would you do? No doubt a flush and filter change are in order. I have not noticed any sounds or slipping. Should I replace the VB with all new solenoids and upgrades? Or am I just throwing money away? Local tranny guy claims "beginning of the end". Truck isnt worth a $1500 tranny rebuild, but could justify $300 "Refresh" to keep it going for awhile!

Im interested in your thoughts and opinions!