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5spdman's slow and cheap XLT build

I'm back! My brakes went out on my car on the way to Ohio, but I got that rigged up enough to drive and made it back Monday night to Arizona. Had a great time with my family and friends, and I hope everyone else had a great holiday season!

I went ahead and broke out the new tool tonight and vacuum bled the MC (just in case) and spent an hour bleeding the lines as well, just to make certain that there was no air in the lines. Jumped in the truck, started it up, and.......no brakes....... :banghead: :splat:

Could I have gotten a bad reman when I got the new master cylinder? I'm starting to get really fed up.... :help:
 



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Waiting for the new MC to come in to NAPA, but in the meantime, went ahead and gave Edgar a little facelift/upgrade thanks to a friend back in Ohio...

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22" Tuff Stuff 72w LED bar...only cost me $125!!

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Pictured above is a night shot with brights and 4 100w halogen spots on the roof, and below, only the brights and the 22" LED bar.

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After I move back to Ohio and making some real money, I'll be ordering a 40" bar for the roof rack, 2"x2" flush mounts for the front bumper and 2"x2" flood lights for the rear!
 






An alignment was done today, and it went pretty quick....50 minutes after it was put on the rack they called me out to the shop to check it out! However, in examining the truck they addressed to me the bad passenger ball joints and I stupidly told them to go ahead and replace them after they asked me what I wanted to do.....6 hours and $400 later, I have a truck with new passenger ball joints and an alignment that tracks to the right and will dart to either the right or the left when hitting a bump....could have done the ball joints myself and it seemed to drive better with the alignment I did myself...I'm thinking the lack of proper drop in the pitman arm has a lot to do with the steering issues... :frustrate

On top of that, I have a driveline vibration and a serious sway at speeds around 60mph...thinking the sway is possibly bad bushings in the leaf springs.....anyone have suggestions on fixes or go through the same thing with their SOA conversion?

At least I got a decent deal on a set of 33" BFG All-Terrains today! :D
 












Figured it was....bit the bullet and just ordered the Skyjacker FA600....
 






Here is my steering angle with the Skyjacker FA600, Superlift 5.5" coils and F150 coil seats.

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See mine is a lot worse than that....I have the ProComp FD400 with Tuff Country 4" springs and 1" dock washer spacers.... if the Skyjacker is 1/2" longer than my lift height, it'll still be closer than it is now, and I can always throw in a few more washers to even it all out....

Anyone have ideas about the rear? I'm kinda thinking its from the rear sway bar delete and am considering putting it back on...it never hurt the rear flex, and I never had the issue I have now...
 






For the driveline vibration, driveline angle and driveline length are the 2 things I'd check first...

How long is it from flange to flange between the xfer case and the rear diff? When I did my SOA, that was 51" which meant my 49" (center of travel) stock driveshaft was too short.

For measuring the driveline angle.. Do you have an Iphone? If so, get the tremec driveline angle finder app. It will do the measuring for you.

As for the sway bar.. Well, while I don't run it, some people do and it does make a difference on road. Off-road it will make a difference too. There is no way I'd be able to get this kind of flex if I had my rear sway bar on. If your going to put it on, take it off when wheeling.

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truckhaven MLK weekend 2015 by maniak_az, on Flickr

Also, when I went SOA, I did have to stiffen up my rear shocks to make it ride better, otherwise it was leaning all over the place.. Enough to be annoying, especially the side to side sway I'd get on the 2 line blacktop near the house...

When they did your alignment, did they give you the specs of what it was and what it ended up with? What your looking for is thrust angle and caster. Those 2 things will cause pull.. Thrust angle means your rear axle isn't in straight and caster causes pull to the side with the least positive caster.

And get a shot of the front end now.. Since you said it's worse than Cloaked Chaos's picture, I'm guess your angles are way off in which case, yes, it will steer all over when your suspension cycles.

~Mark
 






For the driveline vibration, driveline angle and driveline length are the 2 things I'd check first...

--------

For measuring the driveline angle.. Do you have an Iphone? If so, get the tremec driveline angle finder app. It will do the measuring for you.

As for the sway bar.. Well, while I don't run it, some people do and it does make a difference on road. Off-road it will make a difference too. There is no way I'd be able to get this kind of flex if I had my rear sway bar on. If your going to put it on, take it off when wheeling.

--------

Also, when I went SOA, I did have to stiffen up my rear shocks to make it ride better, otherwise it was leaning all over the place.. Enough to be annoying, especially the side to side sway I'd get on the 2 line blacktop near the house...

When they did your alignment, did they give you the specs of what it was and what it ended up with? What your looking for is thrust angle and caster. Those 2 things will cause pull.. Thrust angle means your rear axle isn't in straight and caster causes pull to the side with the least positive caster.

--------

I did have to pull the drive shaft a bit to get it to the axle flange, but never thought of that being the cause of the vibration....it's about 3/4"+ short and I've been trying to find a place that will do extensions before I really take it wheeling, but can't seem to find anyone. Also, while I have a Droid and not an iPhone, I was able to find the Tremec app and downloaded it.

But all that leads me to another question...the spring perches I purchased had three openings for the spring stud...if I moved the stud to the hole furthest back and not the middle, it would bring my axle and drive shaft closer so I wouldn't have to get the shaft extended, but how much would that effect my angles?

These are the perches I bought and installed, and here is a pic of both rear tires:

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To me it seems like the wheels sit a little farther back than they used to...don't know why I didn't notice it until now. I think what I'll do is move the rear axle forward, use that handy app, test drive and report back...

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I added the damper back on last night when I got back and took it for another spin...seemed to help a little bit.

I'm also thinking that if I throw the rear sway bar back on (adding disconnects of course), I'll have to relocate the shock mounts to the plates that are now on top of the springs...I'm assuming this will effect flex, but wasn't sure by how much...

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It looks really bad now that I look at it again, but like I mentioned, I ordered the Skyjacker arm and should have it in Thursday night; I'll have the shop check my home-done toe alignment quick after they install the new tires when I go pick them up Friday...I did not get the specs from the shop on what I was at and what I ended up at as far as degrees of camber and caster, but I'll ask when they have it on the rack...you said awhile ago 2-5 degrees of caster is what I should have correct?
 






Measurements I got with the Tremec app before moving anything were 7.7* on the first joint, 10.1* on the rear joint and driveline operating angle of 2.4*....i'm going to move the rear axle this evening and remeasure the lines...
 






When I first did my SOA I used the center bolt on the perch (mine are from ruffstuff, but they are like yours). I found I was shoving the rear tire into the back of the doors so I moved my axle back 1" to get more clearance. You can cut away behind the tires but there isn't anything you can cut behind the doors.

In order for me to run with the axle back farther, I had to have my driveshaft re-tubed. I paid < $250 for it and it took 2 days which included the fancy osha yellow paint job.

~Mark
 






I moved the axle forward tonight...took about 30 minutes to adjust, and after taking 5 separate measurements and a test drive, the joint angles are within 2* of each other and I noticed only a subtle vibration when removing my foot from the gas. The tires look like they sit in the wells pretty evenly front to back, but after I get the 33's mounted Friday, we'll see if I have to move it again...I'll still be looking into a shaft extension, but I think I'll go black or silver for paint. :D

Skyjacker pitman arm should be in tomorrow afternoon as well, so I'll get that thrown on, dial in my toe, and not worry about bump steer...after that, tackling the sway issue...
 






Photo update/reveal:

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Tires and truck look great and the steering arm is straight, which in turn got rid of the bump steer, right pull and rear sway! :bounce:
 






Tires and truck look great and the steering arm is straight, which in turn got rid of the bump steer, right pull and rear sway! :bounce:

Looking great! Glad we could help you fix your steering.
 












33x10.50x15 BFG All-Terrains
 












Only thing I would recommend is that you regear to a 4.10 if going 33's. I had looked for a stock Ranger 4.10 front pumpkin, but couldn't find one that wasn't $300. Now I wish I had looked harder. With 3.73 and 33's, I feel like I'm riding with 3.55 and 235/75R15's again, struggling and having to downshift going up the hills and mesa's...when I was running the 235's with the 3.73, no downshifting was needed, fuel mileage seemed decent yet, and it was great!

Oh well, next time...
 









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I believe I broke my second set of auto hubs "wheeling" on a rock pile behind the school...think I'm just ready for some heavier wheeling than I can do without lockers...will be looking for the spindle nuts soon to throw on that pair of manual hubs that are just sitting in my living room lol...
 






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