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79 Mustang, new daily driver?

alec, i wanted to show some progress on my "little" project. well actually, the roll cage guys progress. i have to say, I'm happy with the results from it. $250, plus a tranny from the red headed stepchild's parts truck (red headed stepchild is a 01 sport that i bought to fix and resell).
jeff, i will defiantly give them a call when the stepchild is sold and i can buy more stuff.
BTW jeff, the folks should be in TX on thrusday. i just tried to call them and there was no answer

BA DA, DA DUM DADUM DADUM DADUM. BA DA, DA DUM YAHA YAHA YAHA!

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thanks again jeff for the link you sent me awhile back about the rad cradle. it looks way better then the bent up dog chewed looking one that was on there before!

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now the fun begins tomorrow. i have to sand blast the engine bay, and fender aprons......oh yea, did i mention i have to do it outside and its about -10C, or 14F for you us boys!
 



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The project looks like it's coming out pretty good.If there is anything I can help you guys out with let me know.I'm a foxbody guy I drive a 92.

We carry weatherstrip,carpet and a few things for these cars.

Foxbody Mustang Parts
 






This is an awesome thread. You know you never think about stocking things out instead of modding them. My Explorer will probably never be a rare sought after vehicle, but it doesn't matter. The point is, is that I appreciate it more stock (minus the HU, Overhead Console, and Driving lights) than I would lifted and locked.

Thanks guys for helping me see and appreciate the stock value of a vehicle.

Keep it up Lacky. I want updates!! :D
 






I'd love to have a completely stock earlier turbo 4cyl Cobra. I've seen a few with 302's in them over this way,but not a bone stock original car.Very hard to find.

I love the T-top cars too.
 






thanks for the encouragement guys! I really do appreciate it.

I'm gonna leave soon to sign up for flight school, and I may have time to work on it after that. there's never enough time in a day :confused:
 






well, ground school is officially on for the beginning of February, but I'm having trouble getting a loan for the flight portion. I've not enough credit built up yet. Still I persist.

oh and I made up a joke today!

here goes:

Why hasn't anyone ever invented an electric salt shaker?

Cuz no one wants to go to the store and ask for a saltin' battery!

:bsnicker:
 






Hark! Jeff and Tim, you guys'll like this
http://indianapolis.en.craigslist.org/cto/1520874166.html

Hark! everyone! I just received the little evap cap in the mail and it will be installed soon. I also purchased lift struts for the hatch, $25 each! :eek:
I think I paid that for the alternator

actual progress will happen upon the arrival of decent weather. or room in the shop, either works for me
 






Hark! Jeff and Tim, you guys'll like this
http://indianapolis.en.craigslist.org/cto/1520874166.html

Hark! everyone! I just received the little evap cap in the mail and it will be installed soon. I also purchased lift struts for the hatch, $25 each! :eek:
I think I paid that for the alternator

actual progress will happen upon the arrival of decent weather. or room in the shop, either works for me

Gotta love that Craigslist ad....
This is a excellent project that is a highly collectible car with only around 5,000 built and this is one of about 2500 4cyl cars.
BUT.....
The car currently has a 351W with a C6 auto matic, BBK 351 swap headers with 2.5 in off road h-pipe and mac mufflers, offy single plane intake with 650 holley carb.Also has 8.8 rear
Collectible??? In THAT condition...ROFLMAO!!!!!!
 






I have some ACTUAL progress to add to the thread:

The evap canister is installed and Plumbed, and I installed the lift struts. I'm gonna call up a friend of mine to teach me how to get it runnin' right. not gonna happen on my own.

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in addition, does this look like the correct PCV valve. I can't find anything on the engine that matches this, and this is what I was given at the parts place.

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I always appreciate the help! :D
 






lol, hey alec, where your ears bleeding? no word of a lie, i was thinking last night if you had made any new progress and was wondering if you where going to post some new pics!
 






ha, nice! why couldn't you think of that a month ago? :p:

I kid, I kid

today I'm gonna go pick up my ballot :us:

then I'm gonna drop the driveshaft and my dads gonna show me how to replace the U-joints

then a guitar lesson. productive day!
 






in addition, does this look like the correct PCV valve. I can't find anything on the engine that matches this, and this is what I was given at the parts place.

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I always appreciate the help! :D



You will take the tree of the top of the PCV valve, it is located behind the distributor in this mess:

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Jeff
 












today I dropped the driveshaft and replaced the U-joints. I messed up one of the caps. I crushed one of the needle bearings in it. I ran down to the local shucks and got a new one. a $10 learning error. it was actually kinda fun! this car is slowly shaping up. I just have to figure out my gas/temp/oil guages, and give it a much needed tune-up.everything else at this point is just making it nicer, like replacing the door hinges, and redoing all of the weatherstripping. it might need new shocks, but I just need to get it on the road first
 






Hey Jeff, If you were to replace the shocks on this bad boy, which ones would you get?

is there something special about the TRX suspension when it comes to choosing a set of shocks?
 






Some stock gas replacement struts and shocks will be fine (regular auto parts store), unless you want a little more, or over the top, KYB, Tokico, or Koni adjustables are available too.

They will ask you if it has the TRX suspension under it.

Stock gas replacements should be about $30 - $60 each on the front.

Rears can be from $22 and up.







Jeff - :navajo:
 






thank you muchly!

I've been recommended the monroe sensatracs as a possible equivalent to OEM. they are relatively inexpensive, so I might just go with 'em.

I talked to a mechanic friend that tunes all my grandpas hotrods, and he suggested I do a standard "plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters" tuneup, and get some real miles on it and learn specifically how the engine is responding in certain situations. after that, I'm going to rebuild the carb and get it running just right!
by that time I hope to have all of the vacuum system bugs worked out and have it set up as per factory specs

I wish it wasn't so fricken cold, I wanna get some work done!

I also bought a clutch/pressure plate. at $100 for a brand new unit, lifetime warranty, and I KNOW what condition its in, I couldn't say no.

and I STILL need to figure out my wiring bugs. I have no fuel/temp/oil guages, nor stereo or windshield wipers. I'm figuring it's grounding issues, but I need to really tear into it. I have the stereo figured out, they pushed the power source wire into the socket with the fuse to draw power that way :fp: I'll need to tap a good power source for that and I should have some tunes!
 






just got the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor replaced. It made a difference! I ended up with a mysterious high idle that I couldn't/didn't know how to get rid of.

I also drove it a bit more after the change and it woke up a bit. however, I still have an insane rattling noise under load, especially at the higher RPMs. the green TURBO light comes on at around 4 grand, and if I put my foot into it, the red engine light/buzzer goes off. I made sure to let off as soon as I heard that. I'll have to dig through FEP. i'm pretty sure there were some threads about this.

I also bought a rebuild kit for the carb. Its a Holley, 52 series, 2 barrel. at least thats what ive been told.
 



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Red engine light/buzzer means TOO MUCH BOOST, need to check the waste gate and make sure it is working.

If the rattling is pre-ignition detonation you need to turn the timing down, or damage will occur.








Jeff - :navajo:
 






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