90k Maintenance Time, Needs Some Suggestions

[Cali' Explorer]

Ok guys, well, my pretty little X is coming up on its 90K mark. I am looking to do the proper service necessary to keep it running right so I was looking for some suggestions to the following:

1.) Cooling System: The cooling system is supposed to be worked on. As of right now, it appears that the Radiator hoses are all the originals (and are getting mighty worn and soft).

I am planning on going through and replacing all the Radiator (including the small one coming off the Water Pump). Related to this, should I go with stock Motorcraft or Goodyear hoses?

I am also planning on replacing the Thermostat while I have this mess disassembled. I am trying to decide whether I should move down a step on the Thermostat and go to a 180 degree instead of the stock 195 degree. I have heard going too low could cause the engine to stay in open loop and burn up a lot of gas, which I don't necessarily want. This is a basically stock 5.0 as well, so any suggestions here would be greatly appreciated. Along with what brand would be the most reliable to go with for long term.

Also, I was planning on replacing the Coolant Temperature Sensor while I had the mess apart. I know It probably doesn't need it, but its not an excpensive sensor and I figure while its apart, I should do it. Anything special I need to know about replacing this?

Last thing on the Cooling System, what anti-freeze should I go with? I normally just run the Green Prestone with a 50/50 mix. Being in Sacramento, temperatures rarely get below 30 degrees F but regularly go above 100 in the summer, so I want to go with the best I can until the next time I change it.

2.) Differential Fluid: To my knowledge, the fluid has never been changed. I was thinking of going with some Synthetic Gear Fluid (Royal Purple) and was looking for recommendations on what weight would be the best. I have 4 Quarts of 75w90 Royal purple that I have left over from another project. A couple of people have said that would be ok for the Front Diff, but not the rear. I just don't want to risk damaging something, so what fluid would you recommend for Front and Rear?

3.) Transmission & T-Case: Both the Transmission and T-Case were serviced about 5 or 6K ago. The Transmission got a regular pan drop with a new filter and gasket and the T-Case got a drop and refill. Besides this one service, I don't know if the Transmission has ever been serviced before (I bought the X with 60K on it), but I have never had any problems with it thus far. I was contemplating swapping out to Royal Purple Synth ATF (doing it myself of course) with the addition of an Auxillary Tranny Fluid Filter, then after about 6 - 9k doing a pan drop and filter change again, but I wanted some input as that's some expensive fluid and I'd hate to drop $100 or so on fluid that will just end up toasting my tranny. Also, would it be worthwhile to drain the T-Case and put the same Royal Purplse ATF in it (its rated for all places where Mercon is used, such as in the T-Case).

4.) Anything Else: These were the big ticket items for me. I have already changed out the Spark Plugs about 3k ago with Replacement Motorcraft Platinums. I need to change the Plug Wires but right now am debating whether I should get Motorcraft replacements or a set of Taylor Spiro's.

My biggest thing is, I need this X to last me at least another 90K without major problems, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated =). Thanks.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

A couple of others:

5.) Driveline/Suspension System: I know that the majoirity of the Suspension and Driveline is not greaseable. I have read that you can lubricate the slip joint on the Rear Driveshaft by Using a syringe and puncturing the boot and just squeezing in grease and then sealing the hole with Silicone. What I'm wondering is, what kind of grease should I squeeze in. I am trying to go all Synthetic, so I was going to buy a few 14 oz. containers of the Royal Purple Synthetic Grease for Grease guns.

What other joints will I be able to grease besides the rear slip joint on the driveshaft? I was thinking that I could remove (or mostly remove) the sway bars so I could squeeze some grease into the bushings, would it be worth my time and money to just replace the bushings with some Energy Suspension pieces so that I can more easily grease them later?


6.) Brake Fluid: I just had the front brakes done and have noticed that the Brake Fluid looks horribly dark (a medium graphite gray, hehe). Would it be worthwile to flush the brake system with fresh Brake Fluid? What type of brake fluid would I be best to go with (I know its DOT3, but is there some brand that's more reliable than another).

7.) Power Steering Fluid: I was in the process of flushing my Power Steering pump, but gave up due to lack of time to do it. My friend who's a mechanic said that Flushing the Power Steering Fluid wasn't necessary, but to me, any fluid that gets dark brown should be flushed. I know that Ford Recommends Mercon ATF for the Fluid, would putting in the afformentioned Synthetic ATF cause problems, or should I just stick with the good old fashioned Mercon ATF? And is it worthwhile to do, or might I be risking causing more problems than good?

I am researching a lot of these questions on my own, but any suggestions you guys can give on these would greatly appreciate me.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

bumpity bump

 

[F14CRAZY]

I don't think it's necessary to "flush" the power steering. Since you can't really pull a plug and drain it, I would suggest using a turkey baster or similar sucker to get out as much as possible from the resevoir. Fill it back up (I've been using ATF. You could also go with a synthetic ATF instead of a synthetic "power steering fluid" if you wished) Drive for a day or two and repeat until it looks good. I did this when I bought my Explorers (maybe a year ago) and do it once every time I change the oil.

 

[CDW6212R]

Hello, I haven't read a recommendation from Ford for power steering fluid being ATF. ATF means transmission fluid. The 2nd generation Explorers have rack and pinion steering. Never use transmission fluid in R&P steering. It ruins the seals.
Valvoline makes excellent synthetic power steering fluid and brake fluid.
Any time you do brake work, use a baster to remove as much fluid from the master cylinder as possible, without uncovering the ports.
Match differential weights, using special fluid for tracion lock.
Don't change the temp sensor unless its bad.
To your coolant add water pump lubricant, and an additive(red, about $10). Doing this, I keep more water in the sytem than antifreeze(60%). Water cools better than antifreeze(has nothing to do with boiling point). Most race cars use very little or no antifreeze, due to cooling.
B&M makes a great transmission fluid, in blue.
Find an additive for your power steering and transmission. A good trans parts store should carry them.
Good luck,
DW

 

[F14CRAZY]

My Haynes manual states to use type F automatic transmission fluid for Explorers 91-95. 95s were indeed second gen but still had a steering box setup (although this doesn't apply here)

Explorers 1996-2001 should have Mercon as a power steering fluid, once again according to the Haynes manual. I can scan or take a digital photo and post this in the manual if you wish.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Hehe, no I have the same F14. That's what my Haynes manual says as well as what Ford's Service department says.

After talking to a mechanic friend of mine, he was telling me that effectively you can put whichever you want because They are all basically just Hydraulic fluid, the difference has to do with the different Detergents and Lubricants that are added to one or another.

After looking around, I found that Royal Purple makes a Synthetic Power Steering Fluid. I have an E-Mail into them asking them about the difference between their Synthetic ATF and Power Steering fluid. I will post what I find out.

 

[F14CRAZY]

Thanks Cali. I am interested to know the exact (kinda) differences myself.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks to you both for the info. I have had friends with cars that had the racks go out, after leaking excessively. I have bought one car which had a leak in the rack, which I replaced soon after.
Back long ago it didn't matter, but now it can. There is a difference, but the bottom line is that power steering fluid will not harm any steering system, but trans fluid can. The difference in cost is minor, so why would anyone choose to put ATF in the power steering.
Ford should openly recommend only power steering fluid. People that don't know what vehicles could be hurt by ATF, could be confused, and errantly install ATF when it should not be. I know, but I have already witnessed cases where ATF was probably the cause. (People grow up thinking that ATF goes in the power steering, then they put it in a vehicle with rack and pinion steering, out of habit.) The best habit is to only use power steering fluid.
Best regards,
DW

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Well, I got a message back from Royal Purple. They of course recommended their Synthetic Power Steering fluid, but he also told me that their Power Steering Fluid and ATF are very different.

The biggest difference is some of the additives. One of the Additives being the Anti-Foaming agent. Evidently, the Anti-Foaming agents they use in Power Steering Fluid is much stronger than that in ATF, which keeps air from getting in the line under heavy use.

I guess down to the parts store I go for some RP Synthetic Power Steering Fluid (Yea, more synthetic for the X).

 

[Billy177]

i would also get some injector cleaner and some sea foam and consider 02 sensors if they are original

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Ya, I am running some Amsoil Fuel Injector Cleaner through the engine right now.

I was thinking about the O2 sensors, but I've thought you weren't supposed to replace them unless the computer starts throwing codes. I've personally been hunting down a lean condition and think the O2 sensors might be the problem.

I was also contemplating replacing the water pump while I had the whole front of the engine apart and replacing all the Pulleys (I replaced the top idler, but not the tensioner and lower idler, so I was planning to replace the remaining pulleys and the belt).

Time to start searching for the parts online =).

 

[CDW6212R]

Steven, you're thought to change to a 180 thermostat is wise. Most engines run about 15 or 20 degrees hotter than the thermostat, and best power comes at around 200. The best thermostat is a new design, which if it fails, it fails open, and doesn't burn up the engine. The manufacturer is Motorad, and Autozone sells it for some applications. The name that Autozone uses for it is different, so ask about an expensive item, about $12. Not the common $5 to $8 "best" thermostat, this one is more. They aren't available for all applications, so check into it.
Best wishes,
Don W

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Well, the parts orders have begun... I've got the following on order right now:

From RPMOil.com:
(1) 12 qt. Case Royal Purple 5w30 Oil
(2) 1 qt. Royal Purple Max EZ (Synth Power Steering Fluid)
(2) 14.5 oz Royal Purple UP Grease (Synthetic Grease)
(1) Can Max Film Lubricant (Synthetic WD-40 basically)

From Local Store:
Upper & Lower Radiator Hoses
Water Pump Bypass Hoses
180 degree Thermostat
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)
Incoming Air Temperature Sensor (IAT)
Motorcraft Oil Filter


Total so far, about $200, but that includes a lot for the Oil, of which I have enough for about 6 months worth of stuff.

I know some of this stuff isn't necessary, like the ECT and IAT sensors... but I've been chasing done some Intermittent Misses and bad fuel mixtures. For a total of about $30, its worth it to just replace the sensors while I'm going to have the front of the engine apart.

I am also looking at the possibility of pulling the Intake manifold and replacing the Upper and Lower Intake manifold gaskets while I'm in there. I found that the rear most upper intake manifold bolt was finger loose a month or so ago, and has been for probably 10k miles (since ford replaced it). So, I don't have faith that these gaskets are good.

I am also waiting on the Money to buy some Percy's Exhaust Manifold Gasktes and Stage-8 Header bolts. Then I'll find a weekend when I'm not busy and do a full change of all the above.

Also, the X is going in for an Alignment and front end Checkout on Saturday. A friend of mine works at Les Schwab and will be doing the Alignment for Cost and the inspection for free. I think one of my front CV Joints is starting to go, so I'm going to have him check it out. Its a bit of money, but I've got 2k until 90k, so I'm probably going to wait until exactly 90k to do it, that way its time to change all the fluids and that way I have to finish collecting all the parts for the swap.

I'll keep any interested up to date on my progress along with pictures and what not of everything.

 

[aldive]

I would not go with a 180 F thermostat; stick with the 195 F.

Good luck....

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Aldive, well, I have the 180... basically, what I am going to do before I install it is hook up the X to an OBD-II scanner, and see temperature the X runs at with the stock Thermostat in it.... if its running significantly above 195... then I will put in the 180... I want the X to be running at its max. And with the high heat out here in Sacramento (105 average in the summer), I don't want to have the X getting too hot, but I also don't want the X to sit in closed loop all day.

Some testing I guess on this issue, this seems to still be an issue of big debate, 180 or 195... hehe, I guess I'm caught in it now too. But, I'll get some hard numbers then before making my final decision.

 

[aldive]

Unless you have a chip/program that is designed to run a 180 F thermostat, you will suffer in the gas mileage department.

Here in Florida, even when towing a Jeep on a tandom trailer in the heat of Summer, I have never had a heat issue ( I run a 195 F thermostat ).

Good luck....

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Aldive, that's good to know. I never know just how on the ball my X runs. I know the Temp gauge in the X has never gone about 1/2 way, even when towing a 3,000 lb. trailer in that wonderful 105 (well, that day 118 degree) heat, but I also know that the Temp guages in the X aren't perfect, and don't give direct temperature in degrees.

I will keep this in mind, thanks.

Also, how do you like Blackstone for Oil Analysis, I am going to start doing Oil Analysis when I do this tune-up and oil change, has your experience been pleasant overall?

 

[aldive]

Also, how do you like Blackstone for Oil Analysis, I am going to start doing Oil Analysis when I do this tune-up and oil change, has your experience been pleasant overall?

I have been very happy with their service; I will continue to use them.

 

[CDW6212R]

Gentlemen, please refer to my last post. Never use more than a 180 degree thermostat. All stock vehicles use higher rated thermostats to MINIMIZE emisions. The running temp will NOT match the thermostat rating. A 180 unit will not interfere with any fans, etc. That is an issue with 160 degree thermostats only, which is why they are usually found on drag race cars.
Best performance comes around 190-210 degrees. Any moderate or hard usage will push operating temps(with a stock therm.) above 210. That hastens wear, hurts power, and makes preignition more likely.
Forget what myths you have heard elsewhere, these are the real facts. Good luck,
Don W