93 302 Swap Info

[slowestmtbr]

Hmmm without tucking the radiator under the core support? My 88 has the engine far back and low
I have explorer serpentine and fan:clutch and there is no way any radiator would fit without tuck
The 4.0 duel core gen 1 radiator is barely adequate for cooling I have full shroud a/c and trans cooler all tucked in there even all
Aluminum radiator… it still needs a larger custom tank

Apparently the 89-92 front nose does give a little more room like 1.5” if I remember right but I prefer
The classic looks of the 83-88 grill so that was not an option for me

Did you have to ditch your condenser?

 

[410Fortune]

No I added one from a gen ii
I have cut the radiator support and fit the 4.0 dual core, ac condenser and trans coolers all in a stack, I built a custom shroud from my old original 2.9 shroud and as said I am running explorer dress and mechanical fan
I originally used a $800 Ron Davis radiator and it came apart internally in months.. (likely due to the way I mounted it? Or because his radiator was faulty? May never know.. 4 tabs w rubber grommets) I was not real happy about that .. so instead of getting another $800 tank I converted to gen 1 ohv dual core (the rod davis was 8” wider and I made it fit)
I’m getting ready to rebuild the whole truck
When I do I will just use a summit radiator close to my dimensions and make it happen. The larger the better (basically a nascar style tank with ford small block outlets)
I have a 20# radiator cap in the radiator tucked under the core support and a 16# in the highest point of the upper radiator hose. Both overflows are tee’d together and ran to the overflow tank. In theory the 20# cap will never open because the 16# is up higher and will release sooner
With the Ron Davis radiator (much larger) cooling was never an issue
With the 4.0 dual core all aluminum unit cooling is an issue (hot summer, ac on, crawling or stop and go traffic temps will rise and never come down, gets to about 235 water temp I shut her down)

My bii hasn’t seen the road in two seasons now she’s sat outside under a carport since last October. I fired her up today to move her into the shop for evaluation.
Anyways after fixing a no spark no start I got her running
Shroud is not installed right now but you can see my engine bay and cooking stack

 

[ireallydontcare]

I may have been wrong in my statement. I remember reading that on a facebook group i'm in i think but it was a while ago.

 

[slowestmtbr]

hey. Only took 3.5 hours to get here! NO blood today. Anyone interested in answering my questions?
1. Is it feasible to have ac? And what do you recommend? Maybe aftermarket?
2. What does that plastic box do that is touching the valve cover and firewall and should remove it to give me more real estate?
3. Do I need to change to the explorer front dress? And what parts do I need to do this?
4. If I ditch ac. Will I be able to repurpose the space for a radiator and fan where the condenser is. Probably a mechanical fan.

Thanks for reading.
Your boy.

 

[Josh P]

1. Factory ac with a R134 compressor is my recommendation.
2. hvac fan, heater core, evaporator box, notch it and patch to clear the valve cover
3. You'd gain a bit of space up front with the explorer dress.

 

[410Fortune]

I have 1988 hvac box
Large notch to clear valve cover and header
Really reduced the amount of airflow through the ac and heater… but it works
You can remove the side of the hvac box that is in the way and cut it, shape a patch with tin and then fiberglass over it.. I have also seen people heat them with heat gun and able to re shape it a bit. My 88 required a big notch

I had to custom Make a ac high pressure hose to go from the 97 explorer ac compressor to the 88 hvac box/ dryer
I cut two lines in the metal sections and sleeved and welded them together
Still holding and back then I was not a good welder
The other ac lines are stock parts from explorer and bronco ii

My system runs r134, in 88 it was r12 I believe so I did the conversion

Explorer front dress is the only way to go in my opinion
Never again will you have to heat that plastic power steering pump whine
The Explorer also has a 135amp alternator
Serpentine belt and tensioner, high
Volume water pump
Explorer Crank Balancer is 58oz externally balanced, I think all Ho and up 302s are? But do t quote me on that I have only ever owned and run 96-2001 302s

I would not ditch ac, no way Jose, the 5.0 hardly notices the compressor is running and I really need the defrost in the winter

You would need both passenger and drivers explorer accessory brackets and their
Mounting bolts
Explorer Timing cover and water pump
Explorer balancer
Belt tensioner
Fan and clutch, 96-97 were metal, 98-01
Nylon fan. The nylon is
Lighter and moved more air, the metal is more robust and will Last forever
Get all accessories, pullies and wiring also good idea to get all the plumbing lines so you have the parts to work with

Looking good! Having a carb setup makes things easier for you to fit in the engine bay

Get some pics of the engine
Mounts when you get a chance!
I have a set here in my hands now too as I am just about to convert a 94 over to v8

I think you will have room for a radiator
Since it’s a 93 and your gonna run the explorer serpentine setup

But if not the way I have always done it is to tuck the radiator under the core support..
To do this you have to chop out the bottom crossbar between the body
Mounts and fabricate a new crossbar with a drop center
I have some pics of this, I’ve done it several times each time they get cleaner
I use factory radiator support bushings that accept the pegs of the 91-94 radiator

 

[slowestmtbr]

I have 1988 hvac box
Large notch to clear valve cover and header
Really reduced the amount of airflow through the ac and heater… but it works
You can remove the side of the hvac box that is in the way and cut it, shape a patch with tin and then fiberglass over it.. I have also seen people heat them with heat gun and able to re shape it a bit. My 88 required a big notch

I had to custom Make a ac high pressure hose to go from the 97 explorer ac compressor to the 88 hvac box/ dryer
I cut two lines in the metal sections and sleeved and welded them together
Still holding and back then I was not a good welder
The other ac lines are stock parts from explorer and bronco ii

My system runs r134, in 88 it was r12 I believe so I did the conversion

Explorer front dress is the only way to go in my opinion
Never again will you have to heat that plastic power steering pump whine
The Explorer also has a 135amp alternator
Serpentine belt and tensioner, high
Volume water pump
Explorer Crank Balancer is 58oz externally balanced, I think all Ho and up 302s are? But do t quote me on that I have only ever owned and run 96-2001 302s

I would not ditch ac, no way Jose, the 5.0 hardly notices the compressor is running and I really need the defrost in the winter

You would need both passenger and drivers explorer accessory brackets and their
Mounting bolts
Explorer Timing cover and water pump
Explorer balancer
Belt tensioner
Fan and clutch, 96-97 were metal, 98-01
Nylon fan. The nylon is
Lighter and moved more air, the metal is more robust and will Last forever
Get all accessories, pullies and wiring also good idea to get all the plumbing lines so you have the parts to work with

Looking good! Having a carb setup makes things easier for you to fit in the engine bay

Get some pics of the engine
Mounts when you get a chance!
I have a set here in my hands now too as I am just about to convert a 94 over to v8

I think you will have room for a radiator
Since it’s a 93 and your gonna run the explorer serpentine setup

But if not the way I have always done it is to tuck the radiator under the core support..
To do this you have to chop out the bottom crossbar between the body
Mounts and fabricate a new crossbar with a drop center
I have some pics of this, I’ve done it several times each time they get cleaner
I use factory radiator support bushings that accept the pegs of the 91-94 radiator

Thank you for the very detailed explanation. I have come up with a scheme. I will remove the front assembly and condenser. Then I will do the swap of parts with the motor still in the vehicle. I'll use a hoist to pull it up so I can access the oil pan. ( Needs to be removed for that stupid gasket under timing belt). I've attached those pics for you. They bolted right up. No issue. Spacers go on driver side. Smooth as butter. The rest of the project not so much

 

[allmyEXes]

1982 and up 5.0 is 50 ounce balanced.
Which set of engine mounts do you have bolted to the engine crossmember? Is the right-side alignment peg getting deleted?
Airconditioning is a definite plus on these vehicles. Under the hood of these little tight vehicles build a lot of heat that transfers into
the cabin (inside of the truck).

 

[410Fortune]

Those are stock 4.0 mounts

 

[slowestmtbr]

Yes and he shaved off one peg and cut some spotted plates. Made it a lot easier. We had to kind of turn the motor into position.

Those are stock 4.0 mounts

 

[ProjectAviator]

Your not working hard enough unless there is blood. LOL. That you don't know how you did it just that your ______ is bleeding.

Jamie, Now I know were I am going to take my Explorer when I get ready for the V8 swap. Your house. LOL.

Tim

 

[ireallydontcare]

Here is another thing I have read that might work. Instead of using the remote oil filter adapter, you can try using wix 51335 oil filter. It is around 2.5" tall. I think I remember reading that someone had success using it, but it may have been on a torsion bar truck.

Here is a photo:

 

[Josh P]

The 90 degree filter adapter that was on the old engine could be used.

 

[410Fortune]

There is no way a filter will fit in there, not on the ttb trucks I have converted. I have about 1/4” between the red head steering gear box and the canton 360 degree billet oil filter adapter
We used a regular Napa style
90 degree adapter before and it has less clearance

Many advantages to remote
Mounting the filter
It gives you ports for oil pressure sensor, bypass filter or oil cooler
It gives you extra capacity
Can run large filter (fl1a for me)
Can mount it in the path of the cooling fan air for additional oil cooling
Easy access to filter and no mess changes

I used Goodyear blue oil lines, the canton brand adapter and stainless clamps… that was 20 years ago now
Still works great

https://www.amazon.com/Canton-Racing-22-596-Aluminum-Rotating/dp/B01C87BTY8

 

[slowestmtbr]

There is no way a filter will fit in there, not on the ttb trucks I have converted. I have about 1/4” between the red head steering gear box and the canton 360 degree billet oil filter adapter
We used a regular Napa style
90 degree adapter before and it has less clearance

Many advantages to remote
Mounting the filter
It gives you ports for oil pressure sensor, bypass filter or oil cooler
It gives you extra capacity
Can run large filter (fl1a for me)
Can mount it in the path of the cooling fan air for additional oil cooling
Easy access to filter and no mess changes

I used Goodyear blue oil lines, the canton brand adapter and stainless clamps… that was 20 years ago now
Still works great

Amazon.com: Canton Racing Products 22-596 Billet Aluminum Remote Oil Filter Adapter (18MM 90 Degree Rotating), 1 Pack : Automotive

Buy Canton Racing Products 22-596 Billet Aluminum Remote Oil Filter Adapter (18MM 90 Degree Rotating), 1 Pack: Oil Filters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

On a different note. Can you remove the core support? That was my plan to make my life easy. Looks like it's welded in? Thanks!

 

[410Fortune]

It’s spot welded and is the structural support for the whole front clip
If you take it away you must put it back

 

[slowestmtbr]

It’s spot welded and is the structural support for the whole front clip
If you take it away you must put it back

Thank you. That isn't great. I wanted to bring the engine and trans in as one unit from the front. Spline align will be hard otherwise. Any advice? Thank you again!

 

[slowestmtbr]

Thank you. That isn't great. I wanted to bring the engine and trans in as one unit from the front. Spline align will be hard otherwise. Any advice? Thank you again!

Another issue. Am I ****ed? How would I reinforce this? Should I be replacing? This project is getting fun lol

 

[Josh P]

View attachment 463044
Another issue. Am I ****ed? How would I reinforce this? Should I be replacing? This project is getting fun lol

That's bad. I'd section in a better piece from another explorer.

 

[410Fortune]

In my building one Great explorer from two thread from many years ago I replaced the radiator core support with a new one by cutting the spot welds with a chisel and welding a new one in

410Fortune - 96 5.0L XLT refurbish (making 1 great Ex from 2)

Okay here we go 09/13/05 In march of 05 I rolled my new to me 96 5.0L AWD 86K miles, just after driving it back to CO from OR and putting $1000 into it. You see I bought this truck from my brother with 86K miles on the clock, it would not pass emissions for him and he drove it into the...

www.explorerforum.com

I often stab the v8 engine and trans into the engine bay as one unit
It is not easy with the v8 and 4r70w but it can be done. it requires a very tall cherry picker and a very steep angle on the engine and trans also the truck must be pretty far off the ground and two people is very helpful
Cannot have crank balancer in place and engine must only be block heads and lower intake exhaust manifolds