93 ranger cam sensor issue

[Clyde copeland]

Ok guys I wanna say thanks ahead of time for any and all help given. My issue is that I have a 93 ford ranger 4.0 and it's running rich as hell. Had it scanned by my mechanic and he said the cam sensor was bad. Well went to look at it and I couldnt find it and the only thing there is what appears to me to be a block off plate of some sorts. I'm lost and need help. And by the way there is also no wiring connecter for the sensor either. Really need to figure this out and thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Watchman]

Hi Clyde - there are 2 You Tube videos on the cam position sensor. It is located on the back of the engine. To really get at it you need to remove the upper intake. I didn't watch it but you can check this out:
Just type in 93 Ranger Cam Sensor and you can check out more info on it.
Mine was really chirping it went bad. I bought one and had a local shop put it in.

 

[Watchman]

On second thought .. this is on a 3.0 .. not a 4.0 like yours .. But the location is similar.. Hope this helps and was your problem.

 

[Clyde copeland]

I've seen that video and I found where mine is supposed to be but the only thing there is what appears to be a block off plate

 

[Rhett]

I've seen that video and I found where mine is supposed to be but the only thing there is what appears to be a block off plate

I own a '94, but I believe that 91-92 Ex's didn't have camshaft synchronizers -- so your Ranger may be the same. ??

Is your mechanic sure that timing is the reason why you're running rich? If you're out of time I'd look at the crank sensor then. I don't think you have a cam synchronizer.

 

[Clyde copeland]

I'm starting to think it is the crank sensor. Cause I read on a post last night that only the California emissions truck had it. And that the federal emission only had a crank sensor. And Mine is the federal. So I'm gonna replace the crank sensor today and I will give yall an update

 

[RangerX]

If your mechanic thinks you have one, ask him to show you where it is.

 

[Dan R]

My 1993 3.0 V6 has a camshaft position sensor on the rearward, upper part of the distributor. Later OBD II years, without a distributor, have the equivalent sensor near the crankshaft on the engine block.

 

[Clyde copeland]

Well I see where it is supposed to be but there's nothing there but a block off plate. And I read in a post that with mine being the Fed emission truck it won't have one just the crank sensor

 

[Clyde copeland]

Ok so I replaced the crank sensor and now it runs a little better but still a bit rough. I can unplug the mass air flow with no change in engine. Unplug the iac and it dies. Unplug the tps and it actually runs better. So my ? Is do yall think it's the tps

 

[Clyde copeland]

Ok as of today I have replaced the crank sensor and the tps and cleaned the mass air flow. And still no improvement

 

[Rhett]

Why don't you try adjusting the screw on the throttle body stop. It sounds like your throttle plate is open enough for a given tps voltage.

Also I'd change plugs and wires while you're at it. Fuel filter also. Is your FPR doing its job?

 

[Clyde copeland]

When I unplug the tps the engine runs great

 

[Centaurious]

You can keep throwing money down the well by randomly swapping parts, or you can diagnose the problem.

The problem as stated is the engine is running rich. Test the fuel system before looking at the electrical side of things.

If you don't have a vacuum tester get/borrow one and test the Fuel Pressure Regulator. This will tell you if the diaphragm is good/bad. A bad diaphragm will allow fuel from the fuel rail into the intake. Some people have seen fuel in the vacuum hose but test to be sure.

Using a Fuel Pressure Tester check the fuel pressure with the engine running to insure it is within spec. Shut the engine off and watch the tester to see if the pressure drops to zero and if so, how fast. It should hold a pressure for at least an hour. leaks can be 1) the Fuel Pressure Regulator leaking at the internal seat and back into the tank, thus causing lower pressure in the fuel system not a rich condition, or a diaphragm leak spotted in the test above. Or 2) the injectors leaking down. Leaking injectors will not shut fully between pulses dumping extra fuel into the intake. Bad injectors must be removed for testing.

Electrical testing starts with reading the codes. The codes will provide clues as to which components to test. Components that can affect the mixture include: Mass Air Flow Sensor, Engine Temp Sensor (not the temp gauge sensor), O2 Sensor, Throttle Position Sensor, Engine Control Unit.

There are guides on this site for reading the codes and with those codes we can help if the problem is electrical.

Best of luck

 

[Dan R]

At this age, the capacitors in the PCM may be shot. I plan to replace mine soon to cure(?) rough running and misfires. I have replaced just about everything else. Local non specialized shop is stumped.

 

[Turdle]

There has to be more than a block off plate, because the cam sensor drives the oil pump. some have an actual sensor, some have just a drive unit, but there is more than just a plate there. I think you are looking in the wrong area. You'll need to remove the upper intake to get to it. You can work around removeing the upper, but only if you have a good idea of what you are working on, and it has to be done by feel.

some 93's have a wired in sensor, some don't. It was a mix up year.

quick question to help determine this---is if your truck has batch fire or sequential fire injection. The fastest way I know of to check this is to look at the fuel injector wires.

On batch fire injection the injectors share the same color combination side to side ( right side injector wires are the same color pairs, left side injectors are same color pairs-different color than left)= no wired in cam sensor, just an oil pump drive unit powered by the camshaft.


or, are all the injectors wired with a different color combination? If so, this is sequential fire injection, and, you will have a wired cam sensor to look for

 

[Clyde copeland]

Would post a pic but it won't let me. And it is currently at the shop. But I know where the sensor is supposed to be if it had one and the is no sensor there.

 

[markhenry63]

So...I'm working on the 214 code and I assumed it was due to the camshaft position sensor...wasn't sure why/how it was failed, but today while working on swapping O2 sensors, I discovered a 3 wire connector on the back, passenger side of the motor down that had two of the 3 wires gnawed off (vehicle spent 5+ years on GTMO and Banana Rats had a party). So I attempted to remove the connector which has the side ear locking tabs on it...several tries later, I almost had the whole sensor ripped off. So. now I've went from repairing a connector (which I can't find anywhere) to having to swap out the sensor/drive. Not sure I'm up to teaing the top of the motor off to get it swapped...is there any other way?...and where do you get replacement connectors...Everything I've searched for returns a 2 conductor plug for the 94...even when they show the CMP sensor with 3 conductor plug as the replacement part!
I'm hoping someone out there is still caring for one of these old girls...