94' Explorer issues starting in cold weather

[Zehel]

Hey guys. My car has been having issue for a while now but the problems only occur when the weather starts to cool down, around 70 degrees and below, so diagnosing can be very limited especially in Texas. Although it has done this when it was 78... Anyway what is happening is when attempting to start my car (cold start sometimes warm start) it refuses to start for a pretty good while. What I mean by this is that I'll turn the ignition and it will rev up to (this is just the initial kick from the starter) anywhere between 500rpm and 1000rpm and then will die. If I am persistent enough I can eventually get him to start but it takes forever. I have spent 20 minutes trying to start him before. Sometimes he acts as if he is going to start and then sputters and dies (this also can continue for a long period of time). Once started I have to wait (I assume for him to warm up) to do anything other wise he will sputter and die.

Here are 2 links to what he is doing:
http://youtu.be/Bq-apQwZVPM
http://youtu.be/RwtIKIX-5SE

I'll post a better video of him once he is started, soon. It just has to get cold again.

Also here are the codes I get when I read the OBD I codes:
Key On Engine Off
335 - EGR sensor circuit voltage higher or lower that expected during self test.
211 - Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) circuit fault
214 - Cylinder identification circuit fault
332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected
556 - Fuel pump relay primary circuit fault

Key On Engine On
326 - (Cars Only): EGR sensor circuit voltage lower than expected (Not sure how it got this... ???)
538 - (Trucks Only): invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test

Thank you everyone so much for the help! It is greatly appreciated.

-Pierce

 

[FIND]

Key On Engine On
326 - Pressure Feedback EGR shows low pressure EGR not seating or not seating intermittently - PFE
538 - System did not receive "goose" test - TESTS

I can't think at the moment for a diagnosis, but I did update those two codes for you. My first impulse is that you have a bad or sticking EGR though....

 

[Zehel]

That seems like a pretty logical assumption. That shouldn't be to terribly hard to replace. I know a few years ago I had the oxygen sensors replaced and from what I was reading you generally want to replace the EGR at the same time as the oxygen sensors...

I'll try that and see if it does the trick. Might take me a week or two to get around to it though.

Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Zehel]

Do you think its the ERG solenoid, value, or the sensor?

 

[mr cribb]

If it was me, check the free thing first. I would check your intake tube to make sure it is sealed good. I say this because it's plastic and close to 20yrs old. Look for cracks in the "accordion section of the tube", and then check the clamps.

I watched the 1st video and that's what it reminded me of. I tried to start one of my fords one time with the intake tube not properly attached causing a leak, and it did exactly what your first video showed.

Since you have several codes blaming the EGR, it's a safe bet that it could be bad. I personally have not seen an EGR valve cause that much grief trying to start a vehicle, but that doesn't mean it's not possible.