97 AWD V8 tranmission shifting too high

[JGood325]

Hey guys,

This is my first post here. I'm a BMW guy, but bought this 97 V8 AWD Explorer for a bad weather driver. I love it so far. It has 116k miles and seems to run great.

Anyway, today it started shifting way to high. It does it in every gear. Depending on throttle load, it will shift between 3k and 4k for the 1-2 shift, 2.5-3k for the 2-3 shift, and so on. It won't even go into overdrive unless I take it up to 60mph and then leave off the gas. So it's all the gears, which kind of eliminates solenoids (there is separate solenoids for each gear, right?).

I can even leave off the gas while in 1st gear at 2800 rpm's and it will stay in 1st gear, it won't shift into 2nd until around 3k.

I checked the fluid level, it's in between the cold and warm marks (after an hour drive, with engine running and in park), like it has been since I bought it 6 months ago. Fluid looks clean. There's no check engine light, OD light, or anything unusual like that.

Any idea's? Thanks in advance!

Justin

 

[Millertime1987]

Is it making any noise while driveing? Also have you made any sort of midifications do it since you bought it?

 

[IAmTodd]

Try disconnecting the battery. This allows the computer to reset and relearn.

 

[Gadget X]

Try disconnecting the battery. This allows the computer to reset and relearn.

I agree, just make sure that you leave it disconnected for at least 15 minutes. Hopefully that will solve your problem. You might also try taking it to the local Autozone or Advance auto parts to see if there are any transmission codes stored in the OBD.

 

[JGood325]

Thanks for the quick responses. I have not done any modifications to the vehicle. It does not make any noises really, but I have a shutter at 40 mph with moderate load. It will shudder for 2-3 seconds, stop for about 5, then shudder again. This is only under slight load, like a slight uphill, at about 40 mph. It rarely does it.

So I went to leave my house, and started the truck. The idle fluctuated between 1000 and 1500. After a minute it calmed down, and I left. It shifted perfect. I went to my garage, disconnected the battery for half an hour, tapped on the TPS a little (as if tapping it is going to do anything... hahah).

Drove it home, and it was fine.

We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Thanks everyone.

 

[JGood325]

It's back at it. I left my house this morning, everything was fine. Jumped on the highway, drove to work (about 45 minutes of highway driving). As I got off the highway and came up to a red light, then pulled away, it shifted at 3500 in every gear. Overdrive doesn't even kick on until I'm doing at least 60mph with no throttle load. It seems like the truck thinks I'm giving it way more throttle then I am. I pulled over, went through the gears, giving it gas in neutral and park, then took off. Still shifting at 3500.

Idling in park or neutral, it stays at 1000 and when I tap the gas and bring it up to 1500 or so, it stays there way longer then normal (2-3 seconds) and verrrry slowly comes back down. Shouldn't it idle at 600-800 or so?

Before I got to work, I pulled over again and shut the truck off this time. I turned it back on, and drove the rest of the 2 miles or so with it shifting normal, but still idling weird.

 

[Gadget X]

Now it's starting to sound like maybe the TPS? (throttle position sensor) Anybody else think of something else that it might be?

 

[JGood325]

Now it's starting to sound like maybe the TPS? (throttle position sensor) Anybody else think of something else that it might be?

A friend told me to check that. I attempted to remove it. At this point I learned that the A/C design team and the engine management systems team at Ford did not work together to build this truck. In other words, there is no screwdriver on earth that can remove the screws for the TPS without removing the A/C lines. I did not have patience to use a drill screwdriver bit and pliers to try to remove it and check for any problems (I wouldn't know what to look for anyway).

How much is a TPS, and is it a dealer only item?

 

[JGood325]

The shifting was normal on the way home from work, but now I have a check engine light. I'm going to run down to my local lube shop and have them scan the code for me.

 

[Turdle]

Now it's starting to sound like maybe the TPS? (throttle position sensor) Anybody else think of something else that it might be?

I second this--

 

[JGood325]

Pulled 2 codes, both were P0442 - Something to do with an Evap Emission leak or something. Any ideas?

 

[Gadget X]

I'm not sure, but I think that a vacuum leak could possibly cause this?

 

[Gadget X]

Can you hear any hissing when it's running? Maybe around the evap canister.

 

[JGood325]

Seems like most issues with this are related to the gas cap. I pulled mine off and resinstalled it, I'll see if it helps. I have an exhaust leak, it's at the pipe that goes to the EGR system. It's right around the accordion part of the pipe. Is this related? That's not part of the evap system though... and unfortunately that's loud enough to muffle out any other possible sounds.

 

[IAmTodd]

The 4r70W is electronically controlled, a vacuum leak would not cause an issue with the transmission. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do some work on the EGR too. I do remember some people on here having issues with their thermostat being stuck open and the truck trying to warm itself up; idling higher, delayed shifts and such.

 

[JGood325]

I was thinking, I just installed a hitch receiver, and while I was under there I noticed the spare tire was swinging a little, it was loose, and all the hardware holding it up was rusty. If that's rusty, I'm sure the vent solenoid is rusty. I've also noticed I have trouble filling up my gas tank. Sometimes it keeps stopping the pump every 5 seconds, sometimes it just overflows. Not sure if that's related.

What parts are needed to complete this job (replacing the vent solenoid), where can I get them, and is there a write-up somewhere, or can someone describe the basic procedure? Am I likely going to break some parts getting the spare tire off since it's rusty, and if so are any of these parts easily replaceable?

Finding parts for Fords is a PITA, I haven't found any good websites yet. Seems like half the stuff is dealer only. I'm used to working on BMW's and I have a list of about 20 sites where I can get any high quality parts that I need, is there any places like this for Ford's?

Thanks for all the help guys.

 

[JGood325]

The 4r70W is electronically controlled, a vacuum leak would not cause an issue with the transmission. Wouldn't be a bad idea to do some work on the EGR too. I do remember some people on here having issues with their thermostat being stuck open and the truck trying to warm itself up; idling higher, delayed shifts and such.

I may try the thermostat, my truck does run on the cool side of the gauge. Couldn't the transmission issue possibly be caused by the driveability issue (could have effected shifting points)? So therefore it could be vacuum related?

What do you mean by do work to the EGR? I know nothing about emissions systems. I just replaced a DPFE due to p0401 and p0402 codes (or whatever they were, I forget). I don't want to just throw parts at it though, this is just a beater truck, I don't have the $$$ for that. But if theres some testing I can do I'm all for that.

Thanks.

 

[IAmTodd]

I've also noticed I have trouble filling up my gas tank. Sometimes it keeps stopping the pump every 5 seconds, sometimes it just overflows. Not sure if that's related.

If you find a solution for that, let me know. I have the same problem.

fastpartsnetwork.com is a good parts site.

 

[JGood325]

If you find a solution for that, let me know. I have the same problem.

fastpartsnetwork.com is a good parts site.

Cool, I checked the site out, looks good. Any tips/tricks for getting to that vent solenoid? And I couldn't find that part on that website (looks like that's about the only part they don't offer).

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd work on going through all of the tune-up tems first. Be thorough and hopefully you will find something amiss. The TPS sensor should be useable by the PCM, Ford did a great job of having the PCM adapt to the endless TPS voltages, no adjustments are necessary. They either work, or they don't.

After the tune-up I'd be looking at trans valve body work, a full tune-up for the trans. Good luck,