97 sport with 5.0 swap. Need electrical help | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

97 sport with 5.0 swap. Need electrical help

boss 331

Member
Joined
October 16, 2007
Messages
41
Reaction score
0
City, State
Mt. Juliet, Tn
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Explorer Sport
First off I just want to apoligize for this long thread. I know it is a lot of info, but I have a lot of problems w/ this conversion. Just to start things off and give you all some history I have a 97 sport that had the OHV v-6 and manual 5-speed tranny 2wd . Long story short it overheated and cracked both heads. So out w/ the old in with the new(used). I bought a 98 xlt 5.0 2wd that had a bad motor (rod through the block), but everything else was good for $300. I bought another long block from a lincoln mark VII and swapped everything over from the explorer motor that is explorer specific. I put in a new TFS stage 1 cam and some 1.6 roller rockers while I was there. I swapped everything from motor, transmission, all wiring harnesses from front to back (except door harnesses), dash, and steering column. The only things I did not swap was the door harnesses, and the rear hatch locking mechanism. I noticed the other day the 97 actually has a lock and the 98 doesn't. The 98 does have the keyless entry option w/remote and door pod. I haven't installed the door pod because my sport didn't come w/ that option. Everything is in and ready to go from vacuum lines to the shortened driveshaft. It is ready to fire.... I go to turn the key and nothing happens. Power is not getting to the starter from the remote wire. The starter hot wire is hot from the fuse box. Now my 97 OHV had a starter relay that sat behind the fuse box, but the 98 doesn't. Does anybody know where it is? It has to have something to break the current and switch on when the ignition is turned. I have traced the yellow/light blue wire up to where it looks like it is going either to the PCM or into firewall, but I can't find it under the dash. Any ideas?? Problem #2 is with the locks. When I lock w/ the key fob every door will lock, but on the unlock the front doors will unlock, but the back hatch lock will not, unless I turn the headlight switch on and then it will unlock. Crazy....I was wondering if the problem could be because the door keypad is not installed or because the rear locking mechanism wasn't changed out to the 98. Any ideas? I know it is probably a ground somewhere but I hooked up everything that I could see. Problem #3 is the rear speakers are not working. The radio works fine on the front and because I went from a 4-door to a 2-door I just put the back door wiring harness inside the panel and hooked up the speakers like normal. Could that also be a problem for the back hatch lock? Possible a ground? ... I know that there are a lot of smart people on here that can help. I appreciate any info you can give me.
thanks
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Also just to let everyone know, I have read pretty much every 5.0 swap to a sport in this forum about 5 times, so I have done a pretty good search w/ nothing like the problems I am having. Thanks again.
 






a PATS problem with why it is not starting?
You changed out the COMPLETE harness?
Did you try starting it at the solenoid?
If it starts, then there might be a problem the the key switch, if it starts for a second, then shuts off, it's a PATS problem.

Spin
 












a PATS problem with why it is not starting?
You changed out the COMPLETE harness?
Did you try starting it at the solenoid?
If it starts, then there might be a problem the the key switch, if it starts for a second, then shuts off, it's a PATS problem.

Spin

thanks for the reply. The only harnesses I didn't change out is the door harnesses. I changed out the complete dash. steering column and ignition switch. I bumped the starter w/ a jumper wire. I didn't actually crank the truck until it was running. So the starter and silinoid should be fine. With the PATS system from what I have read is when you turn the key to the on position the theft light will come on and then go out if the key is communicating w/ the PATS system. Which mine goes off after about 5 seconds. Is this correct? thanks again for your response.
 







thanks for the diagrams. Does anyone know if the 98 has a starter silinoid that sits behind the power distrubution box like the OHV does? or anything like it, or does the silinoid on the starter take its place. The starter from my OHV motor looks basically like my 5.0 starter. I just need to know if the 5.0 is supposed to have the same setup. Does anyone know where the remote yellow/light blue wire goes to as you follow it up from the starter?
thanks for your help
 






The relay sends the "on" signal through that wire to the solenoid on the starter.

The positive battery cable should go to the starter large pole, then to the power --relay box area.

Hope this helps
 






What is the best way to test the relay?
 






What is the best way to test the relay?

Swap it into another circuit and see if that circuit works--:D

You might even try the swapped relay to see if the starter will run also.

Pay attention also to the connector lugs in the box, they sometimes get corroded and/ or pushed out of their sockets preventing full connection.

The power box is pretty easy to remove from the fender, and, once you pry out the yellow plastic inside, the connectors are visible.
 






As far as I know, the truck should still crank even if it has a PATS issue.....so you are right to be troubleshooting the starter circuit.
 






As far as I know, the truck should still crank even if it has a PATS issue.....so you are right to be troubleshooting the starter circuit.

Correct. The solenoid is located on the starter if it is not attached to the inner fender.
 






Swap it into another circuit and see if that circuit works--:D
You might even try the swapped relay to see if the starter will run also.

Pay attention also to the connector lugs in the box, they sometimes get corroded and/ or pushed out of their sockets preventing full connection.

The power box is pretty easy to remove from the fender, and, once you pry out the yellow plastic inside, the connectors are visible.

That is why I love these forums. Simple advise but effective:D I will also try to look at the circuit connections as well.
Thanks for everyones help
 






I swapped the relays in the power distrubution box and no start. Could it possibly be a neutral safety switch? The tranny is in park, but could the switch?
 






Try a jumper across the starter relay pins to see if directly powering the starter solenoid ( like a handheld remote starter switch) will energize the starter motor.

This way, you are starting the circuit troubleshooting in the middle of the circuit, see.


If the starter will kick over when the relay is " jumped" , then the problem is in the switch circuit, as you mention.

Oh, heck,
Does the relay click when you turn the key?
 






I hooked up jumper wire from the yellow(hot) wire to the remote wire(yellow/light blue) at the starter relay and the truck cranked and ran and will idle. There is also a black wire (I am assuming ground?), and a tan/red wire as well at the relay. Does this wire(tan/red) run back to the ignition switch and send the signal to the relay to open to connect the yellow(hot) to the remote(yellow/lt blue)? If it doesn't go back to the ignition switch where does it go? I don't hear the relay clicking, but changing the relay from a different circuit doesn't change anything.
thanks for your help
 






Also while it was running it put out a #0708 code? The chiltons says something like a manual transmission error. Problem is it is an automatic. Any ideas guys?
 






Also while it was running it put out a #0708 code? The chiltons says something like a manual transmission error. Problem is it is an automatic. Any ideas guys?

bump.... anybody know this code?
 












I did go from manual to auto, but ALL the wiring harnesses and computer was changed from the v8 donor.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











Back
Top