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A Lost Art

So last night I finished repairing the rusted out rocker panel on my Ex but still had a small 1/2" x 1/4" hole along the dog leg. I didn't want to tack weld it or use body filler so I decided to repair it the way they use to many years ago... soldering.

With some left over 60/40 lead solder and an old soldering gun I applied it to bare metal then smoothed it down with 60 grit sanding disc attached to my dremel. Personally, I think it came out way better than using body filler and maybe even stronger.

Question is, can I just primer over the bare metal or could I use some glazing putty to smooth out the imperfections, then lay down the primer? Here is a pic of the final project.


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My next soldering project...

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Over time the rivet that holds the power lock actuator to the door made a hole in the door possibly from age. I plan on relocating the mounting bracket so I'm not worried about the strength of the weld.
 






With epoxy primer you can do your filler work on top of the epoxy. Otherwise do it over bare metal. I would worry that regular rattle can primer would lift.
 






I hope you are wearing a respirator doing this.

Personally, I would throw on a thin skim coat, I mean you have gone this far, what is one more step.
Skim coat, prime, block, paint.

I hate to tell you though, the rust you see is almost always the tip of the iceberg. You may have bought yourself a year or ten. You may have bought yourself a few months. The rust is still there and it will come back. I can't tell you when.
 






Skim coat, primer, basecoat, and clearcoat will be applied tomorrow. That small rust spot came from me chipping off the paint to bare metal by accident and not repainting it like I should have years ago, not from water getting into the dog leg. I already repaired the rocker panel and there was minimal rust inside the panel. Most of the damage was along the bottom and a 4 inch long hole where the water must have entered and settled due to Ford was not covering it at the factory. What was there was removed with a rust converter and primer before being painted.

MONMIX, yes I always wear a respiratory when I paint or sand only a fool would do otherwise...
 






MONMIX, yes I always wear a respiratory when I paint or sand only a fool would do otherwise...

There are a million idiots in my industry.

Ironically the number keeps getting smaller and smaller.
 






Skim coat, primer, basecoat, and clearcoat will be applied tomorrow. That small rust spot came from me chipping off the paint to bare metal by accident and not repainting it like I should have years ago, not from water getting into the dog leg. I already repaired the rocker panel and there was minimal rust inside the panel. Most of the damage was along the bottom and a 4 inch long hole where the water must have entered and settled due to Ford was not covering it at the factory. What was there was removed with a rust converter and primer before being painted.

MONMIX, yes I always wear a respiratory when I paint or sand only a fool would do otherwise...
@RickOT

But I wouldn't be worried about the lead.......Been soldering circuitry over 60 years now, still no adverse that I know of. imp
 






There are a million idiots in my industry.

Ironically the number keeps getting smaller and smaller.


I completely understand, seen it a million times myself.


Did not get it painted last night but was able to apply the primer. Turned out nice so far. I also soldered the hole where the door lock actuator goes and relocated the bracket just below the VIN tag. Turned out perfect. Why did Ford not think of this before?


@imp, that's why I decided to go with soldering instead of tack welding it, plus I'm not that confident in my welding skills on such a small hole.


@MONMIX, the clear coat on the hood is spider cracking and was quoted $600 by two paint shops. Is that too much to re-paint a hood? I have a 60" x 120" sheet of 3M red vermilion vinyl wrap that I can cover it with as a second option if needed. It has a 15 year warranty. What do you think..
 






@MONMIX, the clear coat on the hood is spider cracking and was quoted $600 by two paint shops. Is that too much to re-paint a hood? I have a 60" x 120" sheet of 3M red vermilion vinyl wrap that I can cover it with as a second option if needed. It has a 15 year warranty. What do you think..

Considering the hood would need to be completely stripped, $600.00 is decent. Do note that I am a technician and not an office guy I know little about pricing, but I do know a hood in that condition would need a good bit of time to get right.
 






Finally got around to painting the rocker panel and dog leg. Here's the end result...

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Sorry, the last picture was before I repaired the rust hole. Here is the finished product...

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