A low from Alberta | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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A low from Alberta

Well, the 5 oh, is out... that is a bit heavier than the 2.9. I have heard that the estimate is 100 lbs more, but it felt like more work for the crane to extract it. Moving it, it feels heavy too.

Now that it is out the fun begins... This thing has the thermactor pump to be deleted and the 500 miles of vacuum tubing along with it.

The accessory drive pulleys will need to be figured out. The original was a V belt for the P/S and Water pump, then 2 serpentine belts, for the A/C and then one for the Alt and the smog pump. 2 serps and a V makes the front quite long. Any direction here would be great, I would like to keep the accessories but change the mounts.

I picked up a new instrument cluster today, from the jy with a tach, I don't see those very often for the 1st gen RBV. What needs to be done to get this baby to work, 1) in my truck, 2) with the V8

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man that is gonna be a fun ride

Exhaust, looks like I need Headers !!!

Test Fit Time - for me and the truck I found out :)

I would like to run the belt driven fan but I'm not sure if it will fit. I know conversion the rad you should be able to run the clutch fan.

I have the 1985 5.0 from the Tbird with the cast iron water pump which has a regular length shaft/housing (with the backing plate bolted to it).

With the original Tbird brackets - 2 serps and a V-belt for the P/S


Can I take the timing chain cover from a 1991 engine (shorter and will work with the brackets for the P/S and Alt) but to use the short pump I need the timing chain cover, I'm hoping for a straight cover swap. It has been mentioned the crank sensor and timing indicator swap over also. Is the front of the older engine mount surface the same as the newer ones?



The build is still alive. Just tied up with the time to work and the time to post and the time with the family challenges. The updates are: Transmission in! Drive shaft shortened and installed! Heater box mod done with the heat gun! Fire wall modified ever so slightly. Tranny tunnel seem roleld. Motor mounts built, rebuilt then built again... test fit over and over but happy with the location and bolted to the AOD. Headers needed, went with Hedman headers, but needed tweak on the location of the collector RH side, in progress. Collector cut the trimmed to be at an angle to clear the X-member. Fuel filter shroud had to be removed to fit LH header. Still need to solve the following issues: fuel line routing, fuel filter relocation (line adapter and line, steel or vinyl), rad mount, mainly the support cushions for the bottom? then of course the conversion of the wiring, pouring over the diagrams of each the T-bird and the Bronco, finding the same wires to splice to integrate back into the vehicle harness. On the ECC side nothing removed, just mount the ECC in the original location and ground it, did I say ground it. Pictures to follow shortly.

Get the James Duff swap radiator...then find someone to tig you some brackets on it...saves a ton of headache and space..

Impressive. I loved the BII when I was younger.

I lowered my BII and put a 5.0/T5 in it about four years ago. Looked at using ranger beams to lower it, but the only real way to do that would have been swapping the crossmemember. Ended up buyin BII dropped beams. The back was a little more tricky since the flip put the axle against the frame. Ended up using explorer springs and different shackles to raise it up a little. Sold it a few years ago and just bought it back. Body is rough, so I will probably use the drivetrain in a ranger. So I should have the drop beams left over to sell.


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Finally found another Low B2:D. Sweet ride. Yes, keep me in mind on those Beams. I picked up a B2 with the Ranger Crossmember swapped already, body real rough but may take the chassis.

The progress on mine slowed a bit, no heat in the garage and Life got in the way. Getting itchy feet though, need to get back. I'm at the wiring stage, motor in resting nice, Trany in. Driveshaft in, no flip or lowering done yet. considering C-notch.....

How was yours to drive? Was the 5 oh, stock or tweaked? Stability? I have a load more questions and comments...

My 5.0 has a stock shortblock and cam with a set of aftermarket heads and 1.7 Rockers. You will want to do a c-notch, but it wil include cutting the floor to gain more clearance. I was never impressed with the handling. I was much happier when I had the setup in my ranger. Wasn't quite as twitchy. Weight transfer is better in the BII.

Fuel Line relocation and reroute issues. I know I am not the first one to do this swap but I am finding it a challenge to find any info online on the alternate route. I am going to be running the CFI (Fords answer to the TBI from GM) for now, and currently with the headers the clearance on the frame rail on the driverside is okay but leaves no room for the fuel filter. So that is where it begins, relocate the fuel filter - I could move it back, I could flip it to the out side of the frame rail ( not a 4X4 ), or move it into the engine bay. Either of these options will force me to change the path of the nylon fuel lines. Any experience on a great option on the routing to steer clear of the headers and the steering box?

What headers are you using? I have tri-y headers and there is plenty of clearance.