A4LD Eating Multiple Flexplates? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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A4LD Eating Multiple Flexplates?

YW84U

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BC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 XLT
Hi All,

My 91 XLT appears to be chewing up flexplates, and after searching the forum, I've found some posts but no definitive answers. Currently the truck is apart at a shop and about to be rebuilt, and I'm looking for some input on what to do before they put it back together....

Some history: New crate 4.0 OHV in 2005, as well as a complete rebuild of the A4LD at ~280,000 kms by Shop A. All ran well until April 2008 after about 90,000 kms later when the first flexplate went out. I had moved, so local Shop B replaced it along with the starter (Bosch) that got demolished. Within a month or two, I lost the 1-2 shift especially when cold. Back to Shop B, where they advise that the governor is toast - and so I replace it was well. When I got it back, there was new a 'whirr' sound from the tranny (similar to a belt drive on a supercharger) I thought was odd, but attributed it to the new parts. I advised Shop B, but they were confident all was well.

By February of 2009, the trans had started acting up again (noise still present) and was not shifting properly. I limped it 300kms to my trusted builder Shop A, who tore in and found that there was a lot of damage in the bell housing from the first flexplate failure. It was chock full of metal bits, and had bashed the TC into the bolts in the housing, scoring everything badly. They were misled enough by the fact the other shop never properly addressed it, and they even took some pics of it for me - and found the shards had essentially shredded right through the rest of the trans. I had Shop B do a complete rebuild on the trans, and it ran great. A small leak from a gasket I had done under warranty, by Shop C (local), and had the rear main replaced while they were in there as it had a small leak. Shop C seemed to me about as good as my trusted builder Shop A.

Earlier this week, the Ex had trouble starting. I picked up another Bosch starter under warranty, and drove home to replace it - but never quite made it. Flexplate #2 grenaded in the housing (as I found out later) at highway speed.

I'm now back at Shop C, and they have been great at working with me on the problem. So far, the plate killed the starter, and once again, I need a new TC since it was rammed backwards into the housing bolts. They redid the front pump and bushing so far, and now we are at the point of putting it back in. However, I'm on the fence about the flexplate.....

From other posts, I see nearly the same type of failure - the center tears out along the edge of the spacer bolts. This failed plate I think is aftermarket, as there is no typical Ford part number (FZ or whatever), and it only bears a stamp Made in Mexico. It is one piece, and thicker than the original two piece ones that bear the reinforced welded plate in the center.

We are still trying to diagnose as to why the plates have failed to avoid a repeat. Shop C has been great about researching it and working with me to try and get this fixed properly. They checked the end of the crank, and said that it appeared okay ( 018? ) play - saying it wasn't too terribly bad. After checking, the previous TC did have the longer pilot shaft as well. The dowels appear fine and not out of round, and there did not appear to be any misalignment with the pump or the housing to block fit. The truck does have a vibration issue somewhere from the rear ~ 90km/h, which I think is likely my rear wheel bearings/axleshafts, but I don't think that would necessarily contribute to the plate's demise...it's been like that since 2005. Maybe the starter requires a shim, or is somehow causing the plate to flex to the degree that it is cracking? I'm at a total loss on this one.....

As well, the shop is putting in a Sonnax Spacer -I believe from what I've read that these are better than OEM powdered metal versions.
I now have a choice of replacing the plate with one similarly Made in Mexico (~$150) or waiting for an OEM Ford one (~$270 plus freight). Should I hold off for the OEM, or is there any benefit to it if the aftermarket one is of the same thickness?

Can anyone think of anything else to cover off before they put things back together? I'm trying my best to learn as much about my options as I can as so not to have a repeat failure :(

Any assistance in this regard is greatly appreciated!

Thanks in Advance,
 












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