A4LD problems

[Henri56]

if it provides a longer rod I suppose you have to tighten the adjustment screw to have better passages, it pushes the rod a little more, for their sonnax, I will send them a message, we will see if they can inform me

 

[CDW6212R]

You need help with the shift circuits, the modulator valve isn't the problem.

I only mentioned a longer MV pin, as a trick which helps the modulator firm the shifts slightly more. I sourced mine from a local trans shop, some OEM pin that I cut down to be 1/8" longer than the stock A4LD pin. That's a fine adjustment that is not necessary, and again, not part of the solution to why your trans is not shifting properly.

 

[Henri56]

i have answer from Sonnax , he say :
Leaks in the direct clutch internally

· Loose center support bolts or a bad seal

· Bad outer seal on the int. servo

if it's inside it's screwed because I have no intention or possibility of removing it again

 

[CDW6212R]

That's not good to hear. The servo you can remove and inspect or replace the seals. But the direct clutch is deep inside, it would have to come out for any of those other things.

 

[Henri56]

the intermediate servo does not apply in third, if it had a problem the second would not go well it is not the case
i find this in the A4LD manual
1 low fluid level : the level is good
2 Kickdown damaged : the kicdown is not damaged but can be adjusted, but I can not find how to adjust it, it is attached behind the pedal
3 low main control reverse hight clutch : reverse works great so I don't think that's it
4 valve body bolt : I tightened them with the dinamometric key
5 valve body dirty : she's new so it doesn't have to be that
6 reverse hight clutch assembly burnt/wom : like 3 i don't think that's it.
I did not put the spring of the reverse servo as advised in the forum, the piston would not release properly? , it's just a thought

 

[Henri56]

I do a lot of research and I found the attached picture in the picture (sorry it's in French) the only thing the third (and fourth) uses and not the 1,2 and R is the torque converter lockup clutch, I have tested several times with OBD1 and I have no codes, how can I be sure that it is not this O / D solenoid?

 

[transman304]

The fluid circuit for third gear is also used as the intermediate band servo release. So if the seal is torn on the intermediate servo release side it will cause a leak for third gear apply.

 

[Henri56]

I was afraid I’d have to do this, but I don’t think I’d escape it, I pushed it down and it doesn’t come back free, is it difficult to remove these servos, and do I have to turn the crankcase over or the oil doesn’t go there?
Won’t the bands move and fall?

 

[CDW6212R]

You can take the solenoids out without big worry about the bands. Each band has a lug(a seating spot on each end) where the servo shaft pushes against. Before installing any band, always look in the hole and be sure the band end is visible clearly. You can test that with a long screw driver also, and rarely the band shifts and needs to be moved to center it in the servo hole.

Servo's can be interesting to remove and install, the springs usually are fairly strong. So it's a matter of leverage with each hand, or using the special tools to compress them. Lube the servo and bores well when installing them, to lubricate the seals and make it go in easier.

 

[Henri56]

ok thank you, that’s the last thing I try, after I give up

 

[Henri56]

Well, I removed the od and intermediate servos, clean and re-greased everything, before that I had put a new vb with new solenoids, a new adjustable regulator, a new filter with the extension, adjust the bands, check the oil level, adjust the kickdown (I found where it was), still very well in 1.2 and reverse, but if I want to go to 3, it goes back to 1, I'm fed up, j 'give up, thank you all for taking the time to try to help me bye

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, we are sorry to hear it hasn't worked out well.

 

[Henri56]

stupid question, the inversion of the solenoid cables could be the cause of my problems ?

 

[transman304]

Not really sure. Here is the connector.
Brad

 

[Henri56]

Hello, yesterday I wanted to take a little ride with the B2 , when I came back to the garage I came up with the idea of rechecking the oil level , and nothing on the gauge? , I put back some oil, I’m going to go around again , same thing , I did it five times and put back about 4 quartz before the level was good , something else weird , when I immediately removed the gauge , it had no oil on it , I was taking it back and the level was good!! an idea? but the problems were always the same

 

[CDW6212R]

Have you get it full now? It usually takes a while to completely fill a trans, a decent short drive will expel any air. So the check after a test drive usually gets it very close to full.

 

[Henri56]

I think the level is good now but I will watch it , I come back to Sonnax answer ,the direct clutch is used by the reverse gear, and the reverse gear works well, the direct clutch may not work forward?

 

[Henri56]

I recommend filters with an external one, when I have them back, I will pull the body valve to clean it, I pull the housing 6 or 7 times and each time, there was a black mud around the small magnets I put in it, maybe some mud sticks a valve, on the other hand I do not know how to clean the pipes to be sure that it is clean , the picture is the external filter i have buy

 

[CDW6212R]

That "black mud" you are finding is from clutch wear usually. It is sounding likely that the clutches have worn enough to stop engagement of gears, or have slipping. I hate to say it, but I think it will have to be rebuilt.

 

[Henri56]

I don’t think it’s the clutches that are worn out , they are new , on the other hand there were a lot in the old box and I think there are a lot left in the pipes and coolers , I may not know how to clean them