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Dono

347 V8 Limited turbo
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Lol, yeah there seems to be a ms update that takes PC's a good hour or more to install with new info that the computer is even busy I had a bunch of computers do this to me at work. It ended up being about 3 hours of my life I spent trying to figure out what was going on. I was more than a bit irritated also.
 

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gmanpaint

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Haha!! Funny. I just told someone I bet others had the same issue with that stupid update. My newer laptop took it just fine. Desktop is a couple years old and shit the bed with it. I just uninstalled it, and all is well again. If it starts acting up, and it takes an hour to do its thing, I might try it again.

Then again, that update might be some extravagant hack, and during that hour of black screen, someone stole your life, raided the fridge, and is holding your pet for ransom.
 
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gmanpaint

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Circuit Breaker #6

Installed the 200 amp Breaker for the inverter. Ran a short 4 awg cable, that runs to it between the battery and inverter. Mounted it to the crowded shelf for easy access.

200 amp circuit breaker for inverter.jpg


Decided to mount the winch power next to the inverter, for easier access as well. The Anderson connector makes it a snap to plug in the cable, and could use it for other things if desired, for a good power port.

Winch anderson mounted to inverter bracket.jpg


Inside of this Box is about maxed out now. The DC/DC charger will replace the solar charge controller in there now. I just hope it will fit in that space. If not, there is always the lid with the expanded metal to mount it to.

T Box internal as of Feb 03 2020.jpg


Piddly stuff is all I am doing until spring on this thing. Need warmer weather for work, and Mod funds. Slim picking until then. lol

So I just found out that Toyota has come out with a specialty line up on some of their vehicles. They came out with a Murdered out package, and named it "NightShade". I have to come up with a new name, as I am not going to have this thing connected, to any vehicle manufacturer.
 
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gmanpaint

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Misc little stuff continued.....

With the help of a kerosene heater, I was able to get some things done in the shop today. Was Cold enough out there to fart snowflakes this morning.

Made some brackets for hanging the mudflaps, and installed them. Thick 1/2" rubber flaps and brackets mounted out of view.

Only had two places to mount them with the fender tube framing. 1 was close to the tire, the other was close to the rear bumper. I chose the bumper.
Angle bracket bolted to the fender tube frame, and flap bolted to the angle, with a flat backside, to sandwich the flap. 1/4" SS hardware secures them to the angle. Used some Teks brand structural self drill/tap, coated bolts on the angle to frame. These things are legit. Will drill and thread thru 3/8" steel and not break or strip. No pilot hole needed. We use them to bolt down commercial steel roofing panels, to structural I-beams. Has rubber washers on them too.

Brackets / hardware backside view.

(found a booger weld that didn't get cleaned up. I know you see it!)

Mud flap backside bracket.jpg


Outside

Mudflap outside bracket.jpg


There is an inset on the flaps. I am wanting to add something there to them. Something that goes with the trailer. Could rivet a metal design of some sort. Need someone with a CNC table that can cut something nice out of thin flat stock. Ideas are welcome!

Pass mudflap angle view.jpg


Soldered on the big Anderson connector for the battery charge from the tow rig. Used a new automotive ground cable, and fastened it to the tongue. It's ready for some 12v charging Pow-Wah.

Trailer power charge cable anderson.jpg



@traveler sent me a set of Explorer tow mirrors to use! Thanks a bunch sir! These should come in handy on the road.

Ex tow mirrors.jpg


Next project is the tedious one, I have been saving for the long cold winter. Replacing all the hex head trim bolts! I am so not looking forward to doing this one. I actually contemplated not using any screws at all, and replacing all the trims with 2 sided tape. There are hundreds of them bolts, and that's a lot of work to get a flat head flush, and sealed up under the trims tho. I might, or might not do that. lol
 
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traveler

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Shouldnt those mud flaps have silhouettes of a slender young lady on them? Hehe
 




traveler

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Use the explorer climbing a mountain range image that is on the explorer forum license plate frames. Blow it up to fit the bottom of the flaps and find a way to print it on. Or just get a couple of those frames, cut off the top and sides and attach the bottoms to the flaps..
 


gmanpaint

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I like the idea of the plate graphic, just way too small & fragile to use the plastic plate frame.

If I could get that same graphic in a larger size, ( around 8" wide x 2-3" tall) made from brushed nickle plate, say around 16-18 gauge, and fasten it to the center of the flap, that would work.
 


traveler

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Get plate frame and send it to a CNC place. Have the pattern enlarged and cut out.
 




gmanpaint

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It's all in the Deeeeeetails.

Spent a few days swapping the steel hex head bolts, over to the Stainless pan head version. Randolph (R) #2 heads.

After removing all the old bolts, and the trims, I had to chase each hole for the new bolts. Cleaned up the fine debris that left with the air gun, and wiped the panel's off.

Cleaned all the trims with brake cleaner & a rag. Filed some edges on them smooth, that got missed upon install.

Been waiting for this job to replace the front & rear top trims with new pieces. I only had 4ft lengths for these two, but after the panels was installed, the total width of the main box grew a 1/2" to 48.5". I had to cut the 4ft sticks in half, to make the fitment cuts on the outside ends. This left a 1/2" gap in the middle. I sourced a couple of 6ft sticks, cut them to fit, and now have a full length pc, with no gap.

I also decided to seal these all up better. I had a roll of Ice & water shield, and cut some strips out of it. This stuff has a sticky adhesive backside, and self seals around nails/screws, etc... The adhesive activates with heat, and it also relaxes nice and flat after heat. I made them a little wider than the trim, exposing about 1/4" of it, past the trim edge. This way there is no ponding, or any water being trapped under the trims.

Cutting the seal strips.jpg


Roof trim sealed and SS bolts.jpg




So installing the new SS bolts wasn't as easy as just backing one out, and screwing one back in. Nope, nuh uh, na gah B dat eeezy.

I had to chase them several times over on a bunch of them. The thread pitch on the old and new was off ever so slightly, and made it more difficult. Being that Stainless is more brittle, I managed to snap 5 heads off. Wasn't a bad percentage out of the hundreds that was done, but still sucks.

Trim and solar cable bolts.jpg


Cable corner trim bolts.jpg
Corner trim bolts.jpg


I still have some left to swap over on the full length rear door hinge. There is about 40 bolts on that hinge alone. Lol

Total PITA job, but will be worth having Stainless over regular steel that would rust over time. My take away from all this is... Do this shiz from the very beginning!


Ok, next little Misc thing on the list. I'm just thinking aloud here on this one, and mulling over the idea of it all for now.

Thinking of a place to store the tow & trucker chains, next to the little space I have by the spare tire, behind the T-box. Choices so far are Ammo cans, or Pelican style boxes.

I already have a few new Ammo cans, that have great lid seals on them. These smaller cans fit lengthwise, but don't hold much. Two of them would hold all the chains tho. But do I really want two of them? The old brain noodle is contorting right now.

This can pictured below, is just one of them from me checking the fitment length wise. It barely fits between the tire and the fender edge. Two of these side by side, close to the Main cabin wall, leaving a gap for the pug in's. Color doesn't match or flow, and I'm having a hard time choosing these, because of that. Damn My OCD!

This can is 10"Lx4"Wx7"H. L & H is perfect, but wishing it was twice as wide, so I didn't have to use 2 cans. That and they don't have a way to lock them. If I can find a black pelican case that fits, I would probably go that route. Watertight, and can lock them.

Ammo can for chains.jpg
Pass front trim bolts.jpg


That's all I got for now, see ya!
 


gmanpaint

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Well, I decided to go ahead and use the ammo cans, and use them for chain & strap storage.

Made a support bar for underneath them, going from outside frame rail to center frame rail. This goes side to side in front of the cabin wall. It boxes in the expanded metal completely around, the area the ammo cans sit. Each can is bolted to the expanded metal using SS 5/16" bolts, and doubled up fender washers underneath. Since I didn't fasten the expanded metal to this bar, and it just rests on it, I used some thick 3M rubber tape on top of the tube and sandwiched it to the expanded metal above it. In case any bouncing happened on wash board roads, this will eliminate any noise.

Ammo can under support bar.jpg


Had to leave some room between them and the T-box, so I could have access to the battery charger, and cable pass thru ports.

Ammo cans installed.jpg


Took them back off. Removed the floppy handle straps, and masked the underside of the lids. Masked off the inside of the cans, scuffed the paint, cleaned, and sprayed them Matte Black.

Ammo cans painted.jpg

Black Ammo cans installed.jpg


I moved the tent back about a foot to help get some weight off the tongue. This made the tents cross bars uneven. I made another 1/8"x1.5" sq tube cross bar, and added it to the very rear. It now has 3 strong support bars.

New 3rd tent cross bar installed.jpg


I had an idea to be able to tilt & angle the slide out solar panel. To do this, I had to move the front facing pod lights out of the way. These were mounted on 1/4" L brackets to the inside of the rack, and stuck up about 6". Looked weird to me, and always wanted to figure something better eventually. So for now, I used a smaller 1/4" L bracket, and moved them to the outside of the rack, and next to the side facing pods.

Old & new L brackets

Old and new front light brackets.jpg


New front pod location. They look a little better lowered and to the outside.

New front pod location 2.jpg


Ok, so now I am doing my research for a set of tilt brackets for the solar panel. I found some that might work, but might not. lol This is going to be a "Trial & Error" type of project. Might take a few different styles before I figure it out.

I will have to spin the panel 180* to bring the cables to the front, make all new mounting brackets, and redo the wiring on it, which is a job all in itself.

Oh, I spent some time sealing up underneath for water crossings. Hopefully it will not take any water in anywhere, if sunk above the fenders.

Another day closer to getting this thing ready, for a cross country expedition!
 
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KurtECV

Surrender The Booty
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I know you took pictures of the setup sitting pretty outside its cave.... bump :popcorn:
 


gmanpaint

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I know you took pictures of the setup sitting pretty outside its cave.... bump :popcorn:
Yeah, I did scrub the winters fabrication debris off it last weekend. I took a few pics, but mainly for the Tongue hitch setup. I need to tweak the wheel jack mount, and lower it a couple inches.

I will post a few of the trailer hitched to the tow pig later. Still have to transfer them to the PC.
 


gmanpaint

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Last weekend, I wanted to test a few things, and hooked up the trailer for the first time to the tow rig after the latest suspension & other mods was done.

First off, I wanted to see how the new leaf springs did with the tongue weight. Measured before/after, and the rear end dropped 3/4". OK, that's a success.

Next, I needed to test the 7 pin harness, and make sure both sides was working correctly. That was a success, everything works as should.

Hooked up the safety chains, and that works no problem. I can easily get both of them on, squatting on one side of the hitch, by reaching under the bumper. I have chain sleeves for them, that will be used to keep them covered. Will not only stop metal to metal contact, they will reduce a chance of a brush fire if they hit the surface, by eliminating any sparks.

Lastly, (was actually the first thing) seeing the height after it is hitched up. The bumper hitch is higher than the trailer hookup is. I bought the hitch side with a 2" drop going by the measures it had before the spring swap. So with it hooked up, and the 3/4" drop from weight, the trailer actually sat very close to level, with a slight raise in the nose of the trailer. This will drop more after the rig is loaded with gear. I'm sure it will drop another 1/2", making the trailer level.

So here is where it didn't go as well as I hoped for. The new ARK wheel jack doesn't drop (raise the trailer) low enough to get the tongue higher than the truck hitch. I couldn't move the trailer around to set it down in place. Took me a few tries backing the rig in place perfectly. That was aggravating. A 2nd person directing me, would make it easier, but you can't see a thing back there, so it is all guess work. Blah....


BH T5.jpg



Instead of cranking the other jack all the way down, (which takes forever), I just placed a 4x4 under it, and lifted the trailer high enough to clear. The wheel jack is all the way lowered, and you can see the gap under it.

BH T6.jpg


I need to figure which way I want to lower the mount to the tongue. So far I'm thinking of welding a boxed 2"x3"x0.250 sq tube to the underside of the tongue beam, adding a 1/4" plate on one side that covers both the new tube, and the main tube. Then either bolt the jack back on, or weld it onto the new plate, to get it even lower. Got some thinking to do on that still.


OK, so the first ever pics of the trailer paired to the tow pig. Trailer tires have 3 lbs of air in them. Only way to lower it enough to clear the overhead door. lol

I chocked the wheels on both the rig and the trailer as I washed it. First time hooked up, and a sloped drive. Rigs parking brake needs adjusted again, and didn't want to rely on the trans park pawl. All accessory tanks was removed for a wash.


BH T1.jpg

BH T2.jpg

BH T4 cropped.jpg


Not a drop of wax on it yet. Still shines up nicely. Final buffing and Waxing this thing for the first time, is going to take a while with all that trim on it. lol
 
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kmack

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Damn! You're going to get stopped everywhere you go with people asking where you bought that thing!
Very nice!!!
 


gmanpaint

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Covid19 stay at home orders, has many of us spending more time on personal projects. I work from home for about 80% of my job, but this ordeal has shut us down pretty much. Now I'm home 98% of the time, and my work has been focused on creating new ways to make the company money. That's a fast track to depression, boredom, and a rubber room. So....

I have spent a few hours a day in the shop, fiddle farting around on little stuff, to retain some sanity. With the economy/job the way it is, and not knowing where my next dollar is coming from, I have only been doing "Free to me Mods". The trailer got a little mod done as a result.

Bring on the Chooch, ya filthy animal...

Last post I commented on the Off road wheel jack not raising the tongue high enough to maneuver it around, and position it in place by hand onto the hitch. Welp, that's fixed now.

I had a little leftover 3/16" wall 2"x3" tube left over from the frame build, so I cut a section with 45* ends, and boxed it in with plate. Welded it in place under the main 1/4" wall 2"x2" tongue tube. Had to grind the welds flat for a flush fitment on both sides.

2x3 welded on tongue tube.jpg


Cleaned it up, masked it off, and did the prime & paint work.

Tongue tube fresh paint.jpg


The wheel jack bolts that used to go over the top of the cable protection box, marked up the paint, so that got a new paint job while I was at it.

Tongue cable box refresh.jpg


Put it back together on the tongue tube after a couple days of cure/dwell time.

Tongue tube back together.jpg


Ok, now for the wheel jack work.... I drilled 2 new 1/2" bolt holes into the jack swivel plate, clamped it in place onto the tongue, and using the new holes, marked the tongue for drilling. After set of pass through holes was made, I was able to use the jacks U channel clamps to do a mock up mount. Marked and cut off the excess that was hanging down on them. so now I have made these new holes into the main tube, I wanted to seal them off as best I could. 1/2" rubber washers wouldn't work, as they only went on the 2 upper bolts, and the jack plate, or the U channels, wouldn't sit flush against the tube. The lower bolts sit under the tube.

So I made a gasket out of 1/8" dense rubber foam that went the entire length (height) of the plate and channels. These compress when the bolts are tightened, and keep everything flush. Ok, I'm sure there was a better way to do this, but it looks like it sealed up the frame holes pretty good.

Blurry pic of them pre-install.

wheel jack bolt gaskets.jpg


Here you see a bolt going thru the main 2x2 tube. These upper bolts are actually doing nothing but clamping the jack to the tube. The lower 2 bolts do all the work by supporting the weight, both lifting and resting the trailer.

New pass thru jack bolts on.jpg


I decided to move the jack to the Drivers side. It fit better on the passenger side, but was a PITA to use standing on the Drivers side. Dang ole tongue sits about 30" high. High enough that I don't want to keep climbing over it, and having to walk around over & over didn't exactly excite my noggin much. With it on this side, I have to orientate the storage position opposite of how it was. The wheels need to be to the front, to clear the Dr side flat jack in travel mode. This kind of sucks, as I lose some turning radius now. I need to figure a bump stop on it, for the tow bumper, so I don't turn too hard and smash it. Always something!

Since I cut the channel ends off, I removed the rust protection on the edge. I decided to try something out. I dunked them in liquid plastidip. Comes off if it doesn't work out in the elements.

Back on, and in travel position. Pass side...

Wheel jack pass view.jpg


Drivers side.... It can slide back a bit more than in this picture.

Wheel jack dr view.jpg


Front view down the pipe. Here you can really see how it sticks out, and where I lose my turning radius. Without this jack on, I can jackknife the trailer, past 90* before the tube hits the rigs bumper. If this position turns out to be a problem, and I fear I will crush it, I will move it back to the passenger side, with the wheels to the trailer side.

Wheel jack front view.jpg


This mod gave it 3" more lift. About 1/2" more than I needed, but just enough gap insurance. Sweet smell of free to me. It's like fresh baked bread to the senses.

Until next time, you guys stay beer flu free!
 


Turdle

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Good show Gman! Staying home isn't always bad. What's next?
 


gmanpaint

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Good show Gman! Staying home isn't always bad. What's next?
Next job will more than likely be the first buff & wax on it. Another "Free to me" job since I have everything needed for it already. Just need it to warm up just a tad bit more, and a couple of rain free days.

The tent needs opened up, and hosed down to expand all the stitching on the seams. After that, it needs a full spray coat of WRP on it. I don't have that product as of yet tho.
 

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gmanpaint

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Figured out that If I manipulate both the wheel Jockey, and the Dr side jack, I can get the jockey wheels to the trailer side, with a gap between the wheels and jack when folded upright for travel.

Jockey up wheels back 1.jpg
Jockey up wheels back 2.jpg


But.... Now I have the crank handle stud to deal with, and.... the pull for the post slide is lower than the tongue tubes. Means if I was cresting up & over an obstacle, it would be the first thing to hit, on the break over. I might have to move it back to the Passenger side afterall. That would put the blue swivel handle on the bottom, and it folds up out of the way.

This thing is just irritating me. LOL!
 


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