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Another OHV M90 build

Hey guys,had a friend mention something the other day about oil. I have a little tuner project that is also s/c'ed, well we are in the process of resealing the motor (it's been sitting and leaks oil) and he said for boost applications it's a good idea to drop down to a colder oil 5w30 to help the motor. Anyone hear of this before?
 



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Hey guys,had a friend mention something the other day about oil. I have a little tuner project that is also s/c'ed, well we are in the process of resealing the motor (it's been sitting and leaks oil) and he said for boost applications it's a good idea to drop down to a colder oil 5w30 to help the motor. Anyone hear of this before?

I would think the opposite ,especially being in fl.i would run a thicker oil because of the added heat.
 






I was just reading about oil, and when your really making a lot of power you go thicker. These guys were talking 150bhp per cylinder. That's huge power.

Update on my motor...
Tim is donating his sohc oil pan originally from Evil, no word on the block at the machine shop, and complete cams emailed me once asking about valve reliefs in the pistons, and I haven't heard anything else.

I ordered the crank from rockauto already since they needed an extra week lead time before shipping.
 






I was just reading about oil, and when your really making a lot of power you go thicker. These guys were talking 150bhp per cylinder. That's huge power.

Update on my motor...
Tim is donating his sohc oil pan originally from Evil, no word on the block at the machine shop, and complete cams emailed me once asking about valve reliefs in the pistons, and I haven't heard anything else.

I ordered the crank from rockauto already since they needed an extra week lead time before shipping.

Make sure you get the pick up tube and all bolts.we have dished pistons,also depends on which ones your using.
 






Yes, mine are dished. I emailed that back, also that I plan on going at least .02 oversized on the pistons, effectively upping the compression more.

I am going to try the arp arp rod bolts from a different motor. I hope they work.
 






Yes, mine are dished. I emailed that back, also that I plan on going at least .02 oversized on the pistons, effectively upping the compression more.

I am going to try the arp arp rod bolts from a different motor. I hope they work.

Yea that's all i went on my bore.what motor?
 












The motor came from I believe a 1999? Explorer.
So ,Yes the cylinder walls are thinner. I needed this style of block (Apparently from what I have read) for some block mounting holes that are not present in earlier casts.

Tim, I thought Id give you my pan, and a new gasket when I get your pan.
I havn't ordered any parts other than the crank as I'm waiting to find out about the block. Im sure its ok, and Im also sure a .02 overbore will take care of any cylinder wear. There's just that nagging thought, so I want to be sure before I order a bunch of useless parts.
 






I was talking about the arp bolts.
 






Thx JD, all reminders are good reminders.
I have my tentative shopping lists with Summit and RockAuto all done.
I know I'll miss something though.
 






The motor came from I believe a 1999?

yup. 99. and after seeing those pic of the motor, i bet nobody would believe us on the mileage on that motor either.
 






I just spoke with Gabriel at Comp Cams.
He's still recommending the 422 cam.

he doesn't feel going with lift above .500 is really beneficial since the rpm's are never going to be real high. He feels that going to .532 lift will just make the valve train work that much harder with little extra return.

I'll order up my 422 cam.
 






ouch.
This is REALLY going to hurt.
 

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ouch.
This is REALLY going to hurt.

when the right foot gets planted, all will be forgotten. now if i could only find that header thread.....:D
 






ouch.
This is REALLY going to hurt.

Your love the 422.it will make the truck sound and run like a hot rod,the extra power will be well worth it. am i reading it wrong or did you only order 6 rod bolts?if they are the piston rod bolts you need 2 per rod.did you replace you timing chain and all that when you did your old cam?im sure someone will buy that cam,that will help off set the cost some;)


EDIT!!i see it says a pair so that 12.nevermind:)
 






The rod bolts are sold in pairs(At least I think I read that).
I'll be ordering the timing chain set from rockauto. I replaced mine with the other cam, but it was an ebay special. I don't want to use that one again.

I think I'll be ordering new pushrods now also. Even with my shaved heads, I'm .01 short (I think) with the 422 cam. Question is....Is that enough to cause ticking? Do I want to risk it?
 






The rod bolts are sold in pairs.
I'll be ordering the timing chain set from rockauto. I replaced mine with the other cam, but it was an ebay special. I don't want to use that one again.

I think I'll be ordering new pushrods now also. Even with my shaved heads, I'm .01 short (I think) with the 422 cam. Question is....Is that enough to cause ticking? Do I want to risk it?

Yea i saw that,i edited my post all ready.the pushrods should be fine.if they work for your cam they will work for the 422. the base circle should be the same on both cams .
 






Also don't forget to get a new crankshaft pulley bolt.its tty and should not be reused.
 






as for the sound of don's truck, i noticed last week when i was following him back to his place, it has a very distinct sound to it already. that was both idle, and at highway speeds.
 



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as for the sound of don's truck, i noticed last week when i was following him back to his place, it has a very distinct sound to it already. that was both idle, and at highway speeds.

I bet.wait till that 422 gets in there.it will sound like a throaty v8;)i guarantee he will smile big when he fires it up for the first time and hears it.the extra power is just going to set that motor off!!
 






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