Arguhhh,it Happened, I Got Hit!!

On my way home from work I had a car turn right in front of me, I couldn't stop in time to avoid the collision.
I am sooooo bummed. No one was hurt which is the most important part but my Mountaineer sustained quite a bit of damage.*

The hood, left front fender, tie rod end, front axle, lower valance and the spindle assy.
I hope it isn't a total loss, but if it is, I will have it fixed. My analogy is it is cheaper for me to pay some $$$$ and know what I have to buy something different.

For all of you who had their truck hit, I feel the pain with you.

<sigh>

I hope to get a rough estimate from the body shop tomorrow.

I was hit by an older Acura, and the problem is the fact that his car went under the front of the mounty and hit the "mechanics". :fire:

 

[Blee1099]

That sucks.. Were you at a controlled intersection ie: traffic lights? If so who had the right of way? If she didn't I wouldn't worry and just have their insurance company fix it. More than likely your looking at atleast $5K to $8K worth of damages. Especially since the front suspension components were involved. Definatley post some pics. I'm sure Monmix could assist you on giving you a ballmark figure.

 

[wpurple]

The other person was cited for not granting the right of way. They have Geico for what that is worth. I have collision on my truck too so my appraiser will look at it too.
The body shop seems very fair and seems like he wil fight to get the most $$$$
I will pay just about whatever it takes to get it back on the road if it is totaled. I have put about $4000 into it after buying it for $12000 in 2004 so it is worth it to have it fixed.

 

[Blee1099]

The other person was cited for not granting the right of way. They have Geico for what that is worth. I have collision on my truck too so my appraiser will look at it too.
The body shop seems very fair and seems like he wil fight to get the most $$$$
I will pay just about whatever it takes to get it back on the road if it is totaled. I have put about $4000 into it after buying it for $12000 in 2004 so it is worth it to have it fixed.

Contact her insurance agency.. Since she was cited for not granting the right of way, she is at fault. You should not have to pay for any of the repairs. Just contact her insurance company at 1-800-841-3000 and have them schedule a time & date & location so you can have the vehicle looked at. Make sure you take it to a body shop cause often times, there are more damages than apparent. Geico is nitorious for that. I have them and been screwed by them. Their adjuster only did a physical assessment of my truck after someone hit me. Of course a month after it was looked at, the upper balljoint failed which lead to my big whoops. I should have had a body shop look at it more indepth but that was the past.

 

[wpurple]

the damage

I went and visited her tonight (My truck)

Well, I think there is more damage than I first thought.

Driver side will need a complete rebuild: tie rod ends, rack, tire, rim, transaxle, fender, hood, grill, bumper, lower valance, fog lamps, upper and lower control arms, shock.

Hopefully the insurance will cover most of the damage.

I have to admit, I almost cried when I went back...I feel like I was Maggie Peyton in Herbie when Herbie gets crushed.

 

[gjw02]

Man, I really feel your pain. Since the other driver was at fault, then their insurance company must take care of all of the damages. Since you will be out of a vehicle, you can demand a rental while your vehicle is being repaired. There should not be any expense on your part at all.

 

[wpurple]

First off:
Happy Thanksgiving to all...

Second, my truck saw the adjuster yeaterday and the body shop said that he was impressed with the overall condition with the truck. Whether they are going to total it, I won't know until next week.

I do have a rental car and since it is not officially "approved", that indicates that the other person's insurance accepts fault.

We will see what next week brings....fingers crossed. I think the mechanical damage is going to be the problem. And hopefully when it is fixed it will drive like new. I am going to insist on all parts come from Ford. No aftermarket on anything.

 

[JDraper]

Sorry to hear you got whacked.

If possible, get several different appraisals for the damage (from different companies or body shops), and then compare what they found. The more eyes you have looking at it, the better chance at finding as many problems as possible. Not all appraisers are really qualified to examine vehicles for damage, and an appraiser for the insurance company of the other vehicle may likely try to find as little wrong as possible to limit the financial damages.

Also, take a look at all the damage yourself and write it down. Compare that list to the appraiser's list, and if you find more than they do, call the appraiser back and show him what you found.

 

[MONMIX]

With the extend of suspension damage I can almost promise it is totaled.
These things dont have crap for resale value, and since there are so many still in use, junkyards really buy them up.
That being said, based on your description it sounds like it could be a decent buy back.

Good luck and let me know if you need any help

 

[wpurple]

Since I put about $6000 into it, supercharger ect... I will definatly buy it back. I bought it for $12500 last year, put $6000 into it, so it is worth it to spend even $5000+ to have it repaired above what the insurance will pay. Figure if I bought a new vehicle and supercharged it I would be looking at 30K+

I like the body shop it is at, they seem very detail oriented. I am going to take some detailed pictures of the damage so I know what to look for as it is being repaired.

 

[MONMIX]

that would be great to see the shots.

 

[wpurple]

Just received the insurance adjusters quote: $4200
A lot less than I thought. It seems to have everything covered. I thought the rack and CV was toast, but it wasn't on the quote.
Will post piks soon, need to take them again, as my phone can't send them.

Does anyone know why they have to reset the electronics? The keyless door entry is what I gather...It is under "reset electronic components" given 0.3 hours for labor
also says on another line replace D&R battery" 0.2 hours labor given...no clue there.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

Well the battery is on the driver side/left side of the vehicle -- so I'm sure they dont want to miss a crack in the case and then you be charging it or jumping someone and all of a sudden it blows up (hydrogen + spark = kaboom). Anyway, the electronic parts probably just deals with making sure that all the crash sensors are set right and every thing is in alignment and going right.

-Drew

 

[wpurple]

I looked at the estimate again, and they do not have the battery listed as a part, but I will ask, as I just replaced it a few months ago with the bigger capacity from Ford. Don't want to get screwed out of a battery. I also had Silverstar bulbs in the fog lamps, have to mention that to the shop too.
What a PITA this whole thing is.
Geico wants me to call in every 5 days to "reinstate" the rental car! Otherwise I have to pay out of my pocket and submit the bill afterwards.

 

[MONMIX]

Reset electronic components is some thing I RARELY see on a work sheet. .3 aint jack though.

Are you sure it read D&R battery. R&R and R&I ( remove and replace, remove and install ) respectivly. When a vehicle needs to be welded, I-CAR says the battery MUST be removed. Maybe it is that.

Dont freat too much man. Every thing should work out well.
Go to the shop where it is being fixed, have a box of doughnuts in hand and tell them this is for taking good care of your Explorer. ( yes do this BEFORE they even start )
Drop by mid project with a case of soda and beer. Again let them know which vehicle is yours. Let them know you are concerned about your vehicle, and the end result but DO NOT be a PITA. Look at the job, ask what ever currious question you may have, and then go on your way. Techs HATE when customers watch them work.

Lemmie know if there is any thing else I can help with.

 

[wpurple]

Disconnect/reconnect??

Makes sense that the battery be removed when welding, and I am sure there will be welding in this case.

I like your suggestions Monmix, I work for a wireless provider and when I have to make 911 test calls to some of the State Police departments, a box of doughnuts makes it much easier to work with them as it is a sign of appreciation.

 

[MONMIX]

Disconnect/reconnect??

.

Hmmmm yeah I'll bet that is what it is.
15 years I have never seen that.

Just goes to show ya ya learn something new evey day.

 

[SoBeLover]

Sorry to hear about your truck

 

[wpurple]

Finally some piks, sorry about the poor res, they were taken using my Treo.

Going to use the regular digi when they get it in the garage.

 

[MONMIX]

that is not bad at all.

The reason the stering rack is not on the work sheet is because you ( as far as I can see ) do not need the whole rack. Inner and outter tie rod will do the trick.

Fender, header pannel, grille, bumper, bumper pad, wheel, tire, end link, lower control arm, knuckle, hub & bearing, fender cladding, possibly axle, possible fender liner, possible torsion bar.

Am I close ?