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auto to manual questions

jakegator

Well-Known Member
Joined
August 1, 2012
Messages
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City, State
PA, USA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 explorer 4dr ohv
Hello, so i currently have a 92 explorer 306000 miles original auto. Well i hate autos and mines about shot so im putting in a manual. Im currently in the process of getting the parts together. I have the manual trans, which has the slave cylinder attached, clutch, pressure plate flywheel.
so here are my questions.
1. the slave cylinder was never removed however the throw out bearing has some surface rust and at the very least needs greased. The slave cylinder looks new and the guy i got it from said it was new. Do I need to replace it (the slave cylinder)since it was never removed from the trans? I know its recommend when they are removed? also does the throw out bearing need replaced?
2. the guy also said the clutch and pressure plate is new (not as new as the slave). they are both rusty and best i can tell is surface rust. Is it ok if these are a little rusty?
3. finally the flywheel is rusted but looks defective free, all of this is from the same explorer, should i resurface it r not worry about it?

Thanks in advanced!
 



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You should take some time and read some of the stories on clutch swaps etc.... plenty on here.

Here is the lowdown:
invest in a motorcraft slave cylinder, they are pricy but worth not having the aggravation of pulling the trans to change a cheap slave cylinder again. Also a motorcraft slave comes with the throwout bearing attached.

one link if he is still on here is to pm fordsvtparts when I ordered mine through him he worked at a ford dealer in Minnesota and gave forum members a discount. (local cost at the time for a motorcraft slave was 200 got it for 140 shipped through him)

I would replace the clutch kit just so YOU know for a fact it is new, again why save cost to possibly tear back into it sooner than later.

Yes you should resurface the flywheel with that much rust, otherwise you could encounter engagement issues.

I hope for ease of installing trans you have or you have a buddy that has a lift to do the job because it will be SOOO much easier than trying to utilize jack stands.

Key note the top two bolts on the trans will require what seems like 18ft of extensions to get loose. A buddy will come in handy to hold the socket on the bolt. I used an impact to break the bolts loose.

The hardest part will be running the lines from the clutch master to the slave, the kit that the parts store sell is a Chinese copy and causes issues.

Again this is why I'm suggesting you read up on swaps that have been done... one that has been done recently is titled a4ld to m5od (I am almost certain).

98% of the info I shared just now I read on here.
I hope I have shed some light for you.
 






I agree with the new clutch. You have it out this far, a good clutch is under $150 and will include a new pilot and throwout bearing.

I did the swap 3500 miles ago and I used a Dorman master and slave kit that was $140. I went that route as everything I needed for the hydraulic portion of the clutch system was included and prebleed. I don't doubt the Motorcraft one is superior but I chose the slightly cheaper route and have had success so far.
 






Might look into the "shifter rebuild too" the little pins and plastic peices that go around the shifter-- it makes it feel real smooth when replaced.

You will also have to install a clutch pedal-- Some guys remove the whole pedal hanger-- wich I found to be a pain in the arse-- you can just remove the post that holds the pedals on remove the old pedal and install new ones.
 






You will also have to install a clutch pedal-- Some guys remove the whole pedal hanger-- wich I found to be a pain in the arse-- you can just remove the post that holds the pedals on remove the old pedal and install new ones.

I chose option 2 which is still a body contorting pain!

6958536192_7d7c80fcb6_z.jpg
 






Ok thanks everyone! As far as removing the trans... im not really looking forward to it. I replaced an auto on my old 97 ex and I swore i would never do it again... that worked well. I have been planning to do a body lift so im going to do that first, maybe it will help as far as space? As far as installing im afraid that i will just have the help of a friend (or two) and jack stands. Last time i removed a trans I found it easier to just remove it by hand beings as im working on gravel the jacks wont slide well.
Thanks again for the advice I will just save up for new slave and master. Mr Cribb that thread is one of the best ive been following that for some time now!
 






I replaced the auto trans in my 94 on a gravel driveway. Going to be doing a manual swap myself this summer.

1. Throw down cardboard for you to lay on.

2. lay down some wood 2x6's as a track for your jack.

3. lol at your jack track.

The jack slid back and forward just fine on em.
 






Thanks for all the input! Also does anyone know if the bolts that hold the auto trans bell housing to the block can be reused? I did not get the bolts with the manual trans?
 






If I remember right the manuals were shorter. I had a bucket full from the auto and manual and I just tried them until I found one that fit.
 






On the upside of things here is a minor detail that you don't have to do, but if you are all about the details the auto parking indicator can be swapped out for the manual trans blank. Meaning you don't have to buy another gauge cluster (unless you already have) just the blank to fill the hole.

Again a minor detail if you so choose.
 






If I remember right the manuals were shorter. I had a bucket full from the auto and manual and I just tried them until I found one that fit.

The bolts for the manual 4x4 M5OD were longer than my A4LD 4x4 bellhousing bolts.

I copied and pasted this from my explorer registry. Hope it comes in handy for you.

Transmission is bolted in. I didn't have bellhousing bolts so I made a trip to fastenal.

These are grade 10.9 bolts

top four bolts : 10-1.5x60mm
middle two bolts : 10-1.5x70mm
bottom two bolts: 10-1.5x75mm
 






The bolts for the manual 4x4 M5OD were longer than my A4LD 4x4 bellhousing bolts.

I copied and pasted this from my explorer registry. Hope it comes in handy for you.

That M5OD was out of a 98 ranger if that makes a difference. I don't know if the bellhousing bolts would be different throughout the years.
 






yostyexplorer94 - thanks that helps alot!
 






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