Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[mounty71]

So, this morning I get it back on its wheels and at ride height. It still looks like the tire is sticking out more on the passenger side than driver side. I get out the old trusty plum bob, level and tape measure. Yep, sticks out 1/4" more on passenger than driver. So I check the frame and its exactly 9" from the outside of the top of the upper ball joint to the plum line on both sides. Dead centered on the frame. So its the body that is different side to side.
I am guessing only I would every notice it, but there it is....
The passenger rear tire is the same, sticks out 1/4" more than the driver side.
Do I leave it alone and figure the frame is straighter than the body?

I actually noticed on my truck that the stock rear axle seemed slightly off-center, I don't remember which side stuck out further but now that I have a full width axle I don't notice it. It could be that things have moved and warped from offroading. As long as it tracks straight I wouldn't worry about it. Then again, you keep your explorer prettier than I keep mine.

 

[BKennedy]

The rear ended up that way after I flopped it and pushed the quarter panel in. I got it back that way after it was repaired. That quarter was bashed real good. Maybe it pushed the entire passenger side over a little and I am just now noticing it. If I quit looking at it, I am sure it will go away.

 

[BKennedy]

I spent 30 minutes each on the phone with Ruff Stuff and BC Broncos talking about their steering set-ups. I went with BC Broncos, like I originally planned.

 

[james t]

FWIW ive ran both TRE's and heims, and ill never do TRE's again. Too much work with no gain. Ive got QA1 heims right now that are 7-8 years old and there is not a single bit of slack in the steering and they are tight as new. I did replace the bolts a year or two back... the joint is harder than the bolts which makes them hourglass over time. All this on a rig that was my DD (even in the current cut up form I still drive it at least once a week).

 

[BKennedy]

All the advice is very valuable. Most of you have been there, done this, and have the T-shirt.

After I ordered the steering, I broke the Explorer down for finish welding. Funny how it takes me two months to get it together, and an hour to take it apart. Made me realize; there are only eight bolts holding the front suspension. It can be completely removed with five bolts (upper shock mounts, frame radius arm mounts, frame track bar).

 

[Stic-o]

I actually noticed on my truck that the stock rear axle seemed slightly off-center, I don't remember which side stuck out further but now that I have a full width axle I don't notice it. It could be that things have moved and warped from offroading. As long as it tracks straight I wouldn't worry about it. Then again, you keep your explorer prettier than I keep mine.

I believe this is normal. Mine is the same.

 

[BKennedy]

I believe this is normal. Mine is the same.

I know the rear pumpkin is off center towards the passenger side to clear the gas tank, but I never thought the axle was actually off center. Well, at least this way they match.

 

[Stic-o]

I know the rear pumpkin is off center towards the passenger side to clear the gas tank, but I never thought the axle was actually off center. Well, at least this way they match.

I think its the frame itself. The axle and body are matched, but the frame sits to one side in the rear.

 

[BKennedy]

Today, the brown truck dropped off the new hub/wheel centric wheel adaptors. Bolted right up very snug on the hub and wheel (had to bump them on with a rubber mallet):

You can get yours here http://www.motorsport-tech.com/, but you get a better deal if you call and speak with Lenny.

Got the bump stop and limit strap mounts done!

Limit strap tabs are set off the frame 1/4" so I can run a bolt through the frame for a double sheer mount.

The bump will contact a flat part of the radius arm.

These were originally going to be used for shock mounts before I went a different direction. Instead of trashing them, I used them for the axle limit strap mount location:

 

[BKennedy]

Progress on the SAS:
I just finished welded the Explorer, and am going to have the axle welding finished today. Hopefully, it will also all be painted up and ready for re-install. Steering should arrive next week, which will give me time to get the brakes figured out. I am not going to worry about anything that I have on my extensive list that will not be critical to getting the Explorer to Truckhaven over MLK weekend. Second battery, lights, re-wiring all of the accessories, etc.. I am just going to hook everything up to the one battery I have space for right now and get it running. Still need to clock the transfer case down so the drive shaft clears the exhaust, and get the radiator overflow done as well.

All cleaned up and ready for paint, thanks Dad (King of the wire wheel brush):

 

[BKennedy]

Shiny...........

Monday is the target day for having it back on its own wheels again. Then I can work on getting it running and wait for the steering to show up.

 

[Stic-o]

it's interesting how you did the caps on the ends of the tubes for the hoops. I always see everyone leave them open. Nice touch

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks, Steve.
They are the only things I ended up using except one hoop cut in half of the Ballistic shock hoop kit. Anybody need some extra wide shock mounts for 1.75" tubing, along with one shock hoop?

 

[turboexplorer]

What paint did you use for the frame?

 

[BKennedy]

Rust-olem glossy black generic paint. Primed it first with a thick spraying primer, the 2X coat stuff.

 

[turboexplorer]

That's what I used, has started to flake off now. But I didn't use any primer, . Did you spray it on then? I saw at Lowes this week they make the same stuff in a can so that you can brush it on in the hard to reach places.

 

[BKennedy]

Just sprayed it after masking off the stuff I did not want painted. I was able to get most of the raw metal.

 

[DB_1]

Just sprayed it after masking off the stuff I did not want painted. I was able to get most of the raw metal.

Primer first hopefully? I actually like the industrial rustoleum because the cans are bigger. Never had a problem with flaking after priming first. I don't trust any paint even if it says it's ok to use on bare metal or on rusty surfaces. I sand and clean the best i can...i like to use dishwashing soap and water in a sprayer bottle for final wipedown.

 

[BKennedy]

Yes, this time I used primer. I power washed the frame with Simple Green prior to starting the project, so it was cleaner than it has been since I have owned it.

 

[BKennedy]

Today I figured out the electrical so I can get it running again. Also figured out the radiator overflow by reading one of Rick's old posts. I cut the washer/overflow in half and the overflow half fits next to the battery. The fuel tank evap trap will fit next to the overflow bottle. Figured out I need a heater hose 1' longer than the existing hose. Need one brake fitting and some vacuum hose too. I also got the entire front suspension back under the Explorer, and it looks incredible!! It bolted right up with no issues!!
Need to clock the transfer case down as well.
Its not complete, but I know what I need to do to get it to Truckhaven.
The list is getting shorter, so I am happy. Can't wait to drive it up on that can't figure out why it was put there in the first place wall I have in the backyard.