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Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread


BKennedy

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I am going to lean them back slightly, less than 5*. I can get the shock hoops lower, and clear the brake lines where they attach to the master cylinder.
 

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BKennedy

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Anybody know how difficult it would be to add a 90* fitting to the reservoir tube of FOA coilovers? I know how to add the fitting, but its the bleeding of the shocks that I don't get. I can't find information on just bleeding the shock after removing and reinstalling a reservoir.
 


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It's pretty easy. I did it when I revalved my Fox Shocks. I can give more in depth info when I get home if needed.
 


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On your second link he describes it pretty well. The main things you will need is what position FOA has their IFP set at in the res and also need a way to charge the shocks and the spec FOA charges them to.

An extra set of hands are super helpful. I also bought a bearing cap wrench and a soft block for the shaft and more FOX oil. Made it a bit easier.
 


BKennedy

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Thanks, I will tackle that later.

Only had a few hours today, so I spent it making more frame supports (passenger side). There was a large hole in the frame (indicated by the purple rectangle) and the front coil mount is going to go where the red circle is located. I welded a small plate in the hole, then welded the big plate over that. I did actually look to see what the hole was used for, and it accessed a bolt hole for the original suspension brackets. Don't need that anymore.


After that, I made a bunch of gussets and cleaned up the work area.
 




BKennedy

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Today, I jumped in with both feet and got a shock hoop mocked-up. It looks like it will clear everything, and the shocks still are leaned in towards the top.:thumbsup:
Just need to put a tire on and make sure it clears at full bump, then pull it off to weld it up and copy for the other side. Then, I will have a roller!!!!


There is a lot more room between the master cylinder and the shock than it looks in the picture.

 


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Looking good. What do you have planned for a cross brace to tie the two shock mounts together over the top of the engine?
 


BKennedy

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Looking good. What do you have planned for a cross brace to tie the two shock mounts together over the top of the engine?
1-1/4" stick of DOM, welded to shackle bushings. The shackle bushings will be welded to the top of the hoops with long shock tabs. Kind of like DB1's. Not sure if I will need to put bends in the tubing or if a straight piece will work. If I need bends, it will be slight. Need to find someone local with a bender. I am also going to put some gussets of the same material behind the hoops to the top of the frame.


Looking at this pic, you can clearly see where I got the idea for my hoops....:D
 


BKennedy

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I got the passenger side hoop in today. What a pain in the rear... In order to get it to clear everything, I had to move a heater hose, and two large wiring bundles. No thanks to me, who never noticed that the AC dryer (or whatever it is) is at almost the exact same location as the master cylinder on the other side. I also had to shorten the length of the passenger side hoop about 1/2" to keep it out of the blower motor. But, the shock is in the same orientation as the other one, and that is what really matters, 5* in and 5* back.
All the hoses and wires in the pic are just thrown over the shock so I could get it in there. They need to be rerouted later.

 


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Ahh yes, you just reminded me how fun it was stuffing shock hoops in the engine compartment:p:
As you have found out, you don't have the same amount of room on one side as you do the other. I had to do some tweaking and slight bending of the AC stuff and relocate some wiring bundles. About half of my battery tray is cut out, i also cut the windshield washer/coolant overflow combo in half so all I have is the coolant res which is now where the battery was.
The inner fenderwells are cut out pretty high the allow for more wheel stuff and keep the ride height down...this also required some creative relocating of stuff that was attatched the the fenders.
 


BKennedy

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What a battle.
I started unplugging wire bundles, so many that I know I won't remember to get them all back together until the truck won't start. The large wire bundle that is in the way, comes through the firewall under the blower motor. It wraps around and through the AC stuff, instead of just going up and over it. I can't pull it up and over without cutting all the wires because of the AC lines.
When I took the hoops off to fully weld them, I was reminded that welding metal has a tendency to pull it together, which caused both mounts to "shrink" about 1/4" in length. And the shock tabs, they pull in too. I even had a 1.5" spacer in to keep them oriented, and the passenger side still got tight. They still fit, but it was an adventure.
Tomorrow, I am going to work on the cross bar. Anybody know someone down here with a bender?? Might just cut a notch in the tubing, bend it and weld it back together. No as pretty as a bent tube, but still works.
 


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Doesn't Norm have a bender?

Ahh the joys of fabrication. You're doing better than I did, I was making parts two and three times before I was happy with the stuff on the Dart :banghead:
 


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Doesn't Norm have a bender?

Ahh the joys of fabrication. You're doing better than I did, I was making parts two and three times before I was happy with the stuff on the Dart :banghead:
Norm lives a few hours away..
I just spend a few years researching and looking at other Explorerforum folk's rigs. I also have been waking up in the middle of the night with solutions to SAS issues and then have to wait until morning to see if they work. Then I only have to do it twice...:D
I think we are a lot alike when doing this type of stuff.....we want it to be perfect, which I have discovered is not possible. When centering the new axle, I must have measured it out 15 times!! Measure off the rear axle, measure off the radius arm frame mount locations, measure off the frame, measure side to side, measure the frame to the ground, measure blah blah blah, then do it all again.. I have to remind myself that I am building a trail rig, and it is not getting launched into space any time soon, so 1/8" off here and there is acceptable.
 


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The bender hasn't been used since we bought it. Neither of us have had time to set it up and play with it. Work, kids and zukmam being "broken" has pretty much taken priority.
 


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I have to remind myself that I am building a trail rig, and it is not getting launched into space any time soon, so 1/8" off here and there is acceptable.
Yeah I hear ya. I had to remind myself I was building a race car not a show car, and that I needed to get on the track rather than prolonging the build any more. Thank goodness I finished when I did since both of our tracks closed :(
 


Rick

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The bender hasn't been used since we bought it. Neither of us have had time to set it up and play with it. Work, kids and zukmam being "broken" has pretty much taken priority.
Who had the bender that was used in the rollcage party?
 


BKennedy

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Who had the bender that was used in the rollcage party?
Jeffe

If I feel the need to bend this one piece, I will take it to a fab shop nearby. Should not cost too much. Same place I am having charge the shocks when its time.

I am learning a whole lot from this process. Mostly, that Ford was not very symmetrical in their car building. The frame is nearly the same side to side, but the front body mounts are located 1" different (tried to use them as a reference point). The driver side frame has a couple of bends in it right at the steering box. I am assuming it was necessary to locate the box. The passenger side fender is 1" closer to the engine than the driver side. But, the radiator support is exactly square on the body. WTH??
 

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Burns

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Jeffe

If I feel the need to bend this one piece, I will take it to a fab shop nearby. Should not cost too much. Same place I am having charge the shocks when its time.

I am learning a whole lot from this process. Mostly, that Ford was not very symmetrical in their car building. The frame is nearly the same side to side, but the front body mounts are located 1" different (tried to use them as a reference point). The driver side frame has a couple of bends in it right at the steering box. I am assuming it was necessary to locate the box. The passenger side fender is 1" closer to the engine than the driver side. But, the radiator support is exactly square on the body. WTH??
We ran into this building mine....Nothing is the same!

I am enjoying your work and hopefully I can move to a similar setup without the coils I use now. Just too stiff.

Keep up the good work.

Burns
 


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