Brake leak/ Battery gauge issues?

[uberninja]

Before this gets separated into two separate threads let me explain what I'm observing on here. I've got a 94 XLT 4x4 with 186K. Every now and then I come outside to my truck to see a small pool of fluid underneath the passenger side by the front tire, but closer to the firewall. It is yellowish black in nature which leads me to suspect its brake fluid. I was up for an oil change recently so I went and had it done to see if any fluids were noticeably low. My engine, transmission, power steering, and front differential fluids were all full. My brake fluid reservoir is now slightly above half full.

Now about the battery gauge. For whatever reason the battery gauge only works part of the time, until recently, when I found out that I have to pump the brake pedal once, then push down on the brake pedal again as I release the parking brake as this causes the battery gauge to swing down from the left side and start fluctuating as I play with the lights and windows.

Any ideas what would cause this? I'm not getting a CEL or pulling to one side when coming to a stop, it actually stops pretty well in my opinion. There isn't a loss of pressure to where I can push my foot to the floor either. It's almost like it needs more pressure at the start, but then that pressure causes a slow leak somewhere in the system.

I don't know when the brakes were last changed because I bought it recently and haven't put on more than 2500 miles, 2100 of which were highway travel. I'd like to get the leak taken care of, but until then would I be ok adding brake fluid to the reservoir so that I don't introduce air bubbles in to the system?

Thanks in advance!

 

[trashtruck]

as brake pads and shoes get used up the fluid level will drop. a leak will cause an excessive drop to the point of being empty. a leaking brake system should be addressed immediately as this creates an unsafe condition for you and for others. i would recommend not driving the vehicle with a faulty brake system. a fault in the brake system will not trigger a cel light but should trigger the brake light. the battery gauge should be a separate issue.

 

[timtimtimajim]

I would suggest to check the brake line going to the caliper on the passenger side. From what you are describing that would be the most likely place it could be leaking from. In fact I would check all brake lines just to be safe.

As for the battery gauge, maybe a loose ground? Hopefully someone else can chime in on that issue.

 

[92exp4x4]

See if there is brake fluid dribbling down the booster where the master bolts to it. Also the master pushrod seal can leak into the booster filling it slowly with fluid. More than likely that's what is going on. You may have to replace both, should you find that. If it gets to bad the engine can injest brake fluid through the vacuum hose. Fluid in the hose is a tell tale.

The charge gauge may fluctuate slightly as the system is loaded. When you hit the brakes, the lights come on. The gauge should flutter a little when this happens. It's just indicating the extra load. To check the charging system, put a volt meter on the battery. You should see about 12.6-12.8 static, that is engine off. At start up (cranking) it should not drop below 10 volts and running at idle you should see between 13.4-14.2 volts consistent.

You may want to check the charging voltage to with a load, lights on, blower running etc. It shouldn't change much, maybe a couple tenths of a volt. If it does the alternator might be getting weak. Low charging voltage will not set the CEL on these trucks.

 

[arco777]

Check your battery terminal connections. I had a rapidly fluctuating battery gauge once, during braking in the winter - turned out, when the ABS pump engaged, the extra draw was way too much for the corroded terminals to handle reliably.

 

[uberninja]

as brake pads and shoes get used up the fluid level will drop. a leak will cause an excessive drop to the point of being empty. a leaking brake system should be addressed immediately as this creates an unsafe condition for you and for others. i would recommend not driving the vehicle with a faulty brake system. a fault in the brake system will not trigger a cel light but should trigger the brake light. the battery gauge should be a separate issue.

I understand what you're saying, but the fluid was fine before I made my cross country trip in it. It was pretty much full from what I recall. It doesn't even get driven that far anymore so the pads and rotors should not be worn very much. Its my daily and I go through about 180 miles a month if I'm going on Sunday drives. I'm not getting any sort of brake light, and I know the brake light works because it comes on and off with the parking brake. Don't worry though, I'm trying to get this fixed as soon as I can.

See if there is brake fluid dribbling down the booster where the master bolts to it. Also the master pushrod seal can leak into the booster filling it slowly with fluid. More than likely that's what is going on. You may have to replace both, should you find that. If it gets to bad the engine can injest brake fluid through the vacuum hose. Fluid in the hose is a tell tale.

The charge gauge may fluctuate slightly as the system is loaded. When you hit the brakes, the lights come on. The gauge should flutter a little when this happens. It's just indicating the extra load. To check the charging system, put a volt meter on the battery. You should see about 12.6-12.8 static, that is engine off. At start up (cranking) it should not drop below 10 volts and running at idle you should see between 13.4-14.2 volts consistent.

You may want to check the charging voltage to with a load, lights on, blower running etc. It shouldn't change much, maybe a couple tenths of a volt. If it does the alternator might be getting weak. Low charging voltage will not set the CEL on these trucks.

When the battery gauge works, it reads out fine. I can see it fluctuate. It sits at 12.63v static, and goes to 13.8 when idle. It'll flicker briefly when I turn on my driving lights/ac/rear defrost/wipers and leave them running simultaneously. The thing is, the needle just stays pinned to the left as if someone forced it all the way to the end of its' travel, if I don't pump the brakes once before I release the parking brake. It just seemed odd that both came about around the same time so I figured it might be more than coincidence, but fixing the leak definitely is of higher priority.

Again I appreciate the help all, I've not come accross anything like this online in my searches so far.

 

[92exp4x4]

I understand what you're saying, but the fluid was fine before I made my cross country trip in it. It was pretty much full from what I recall. It doesn't even get driven that far anymore so the pads and rotors should not be worn very much. Its my daily and I go through about 180 miles a month if I'm going on Sunday drives. I'm not getting any sort of brake light, and I know the brake light works because it comes on and off with the parking brake. Don't worry though, I'm trying to get this fixed as soon as I can.



When the battery gauge works, it reads out fine. I can see it fluctuate. It sits at 12.63v static, and goes to 13.8 when idle. It'll flicker briefly when I turn on my driving lights/ac/rear defrost/wipers and leave them running simultaneously. The thing is, the needle just stays pinned to the left as if someone forced it all the way to the end of its' travel, if I don't pump the brakes once before I release the parking brake. It just seemed odd that both came about around the same time so I figured it might be more than coincidence, but fixing the leak definitely is of higher priority.

Again I appreciate the help all, I've not come accross anything like this online in my searches so far.

Ah, I see what you're saying. Mine have done that before. I just tap the gauge lens and it goes where it should. Mine haven't done this for a while.

 

[pkn]

IIRC, the brake light comes on when fluid level in the reservoir drops to almost nothing -- there is a sensor at the bottom of reservoir. It does not react to leaks or air in the system.

Every now and then I come outside to my truck to see a small pool of fluid underneath the passenger side by the front tire, but closer to the firewall. It is yellowish black in nature which leads me to suspect its brake fluid.

Leak in this place could be coolant from the heater core. Should be easy to distinguish from brake fluid just by touch-feel. Brake fluid is essentially an oil, and feels oily. It also has characteristic smell. Coolant is just like water, and also has smell, but different.

 

[uberninja]

IIRC, the brake light comes on when fluid level in the reservoir drops to almost nothing -- there is a sensor at the bottom of reservoir. It does not react to leaks or air in the system.



Leak in this place could be coolant from the heater core. Should be easy to distinguish from brake fluid just by touch-feel. Brake fluid is essentially an oil, and feels oily. It also has characteristic smell. Coolant is just like water, and also has smell, but different.

So tapping the gauge works. Didn't when I tried months ago. Oh well! Not complaining! Thanks guys!

But still leaking fluid. It's definitely brake fluid though. My coolant is distinctly green and isnt oily like what I touched on the ground. If it were the heater core, I feel like I'd be getting a sweet smell in the cabin right? Im not, but my coolant does need to be touched up a little every two weeks or so. I haven't gone through a jug in close to 5 months though.

 

[pkn]

If it were the heater core, I feel like I'd be getting a sweet smell in the cabin right?

Not necessarily, there is a drain (as I learned at this great forum, 'cause mine don't have it) which diverts leak from the heater core to the outside.

Doesn't matter though, if its oily -- its not coolant. If its definitely the brake fluid, I would do my best to address the issue immediately. I wouldn't want to drive with leaking brakes. If it creates puddles, even small -- it should be possible to trace to its origin by simply looking from beneath. Explorers typically sit high enough to get under it without any lifting.

 

[uberninja]

Not necessarily, there is a drain (as I learned at this great forum, 'cause mine don't have it) which diverts leak from the heater core to the outside.

Doesn't matter though, if its oily -- its not coolant.

Kinda what I figured, but I appreciate the suggestion though. Doesn't hurt to EXPLORE everything.

 

[uberninja]

Update on this:

I think what I was discovering was a leaking radiator that was spraying coolant around the engine. Temps here in Wisconsin dropped to -5 without the windchill and it finally burst a hole once I fired up the truck. My best guess is that the radiator fluid was mixing with oil and dirt on the underside of the motor and caused it to turn a color similar to brake fluid during the summer months. I wondered why my coolant temp gauge never changed much. It moves more than it did before with the new radiator. Haven't noticed a drop in brake fluid level since I started this thread. Maybe I am just going nuts.

As for the battery gauge, a soft whacking on the top of the dash gets it to drop down. Since I upgraded to the 130A alternator, I haven't had a reason to fix it. Got all the power that she needs now! Its nice to sit at the stop light with everything running and not having my lights flickering.

 

[Rhett]

As for the battery gauge, maybe a loose ground? Hopefully someone else can chime in on that issue.

Does our battery gauge have its own ground? Mine is getting intermittent, it'll read zero sometimes, and work fine other times - I'm thinking corrosion. Where is its ground located?

 

[timtimtimajim]

Does our battery gauge have its own ground? Mine is getting intermittent, it'll read zero sometimes, and work fine other times - I'm thinking corrosion. Where is its ground located?

You know I can't remember now if it has it's own or not. If it does I would imagine it would be on the gauge cluster board. Corrosion is a good possibility though. It probably wouldn't hurt to pull the cluster out and give the board a good look.

 

[Centaurious]

I too have the volt meter gauge needle that swings too far to the left and sticks. Annoying but minor. When i got this Explorer I had to pull the cluster and clean every contact/connection on the conductor sheet and every bulb holder to get things working right and all the lights working.