Calling the mod squad

[410Fortune]

geesh they all look pretty good!
You still have some time to decide!!

 

[toypaseo]

I wonder how blackout with gloss black letters would look...

 

[EddieMoney]

@toypaseo
Wonder no longer.

You can buy these already done.$30-35 a pair. They come with a sticky back. I recommend using fishing line to remove your original emblem then goof off to remove the sticky stuff off the truck. Then just clean the spot and stick!!

https://www.amazon.com/RANGER-Emble...t=&hvlocphy=9033264&hvtargid=pla-731111754931

 

[EddieMoney]

It seems to me that there should be some kind of paint inhibitor (besides masking tape) that you could apply to the letters, wipe off the excess, clean the raised portion, paint the emblem, wash off with soap n water once its cured, and have the raised portion vista blue and the recessed letters would remain as they were unpainted.

I could swear I watched a video describing this but I cant find anything with the terms I'm using for searches.

The problem with masking tape is, the risk of gowing the surface intended for paint with the razor, you can also leave little frayed fibers from the tape where it didnt cut cleanly, if youre imprecise with the masking tape, it can end up under the area intended for painted and lifts when removed. Speaking from my recent experience. Lol. I'm pretty good at hiding defects in photos...

I've briefly, very briefly considered sand, lol, but the recessed areas are not deep enough even for super fine sand. Wax or parafin, heating wax risks scaring if the wax is too hot. Car wax.... hmmm.... silicone... hmmm...

Everything I've considered also has me concerned about the edge of the painted area not adhering and peeling away.

Anyone know of a paint inhibitor? Itd really make this last emblem a breeze.

I'll just have to be careful and patient....its only one...

 

[gmanpaint]

Wax & silicone are dirty words around paint!! Keep them away! Try petroleum jelly if your going down this road of thought.

For high surface / indented two tone, there are other ways to get the results depending on paint materials.

Extreme example: When I spray high Mil 2 part industrial epoxy paints, on large underground steel supply pipes, I liberally coat the 24" flange surfaces with petroleum jelly. After spraying base, mid, and top coats 3 mils dry each, we simply rag off the paint/jelly to expose the bare metal underneath. (The rubber gaskets have to be applied to bare metal as paint can cause leaks)

Mild example: When I am faux finishing metal or wood, I can get effects by wiping off the last layer applied. Different based materials on top of each other, and wiping with a solvent that doesn't affect the bottom coat. Like oil based base coat, and latex top coat. Using denatured alcohol to wipe off the latex in the pattern/effect I'm after. Or simply wipe off the raised sections completely as it is wet, (or dry depending on the materials used). Powder coaters do this as well for effects, but dry wipe the top layer off what they want to expose.

Just something to ponder on.....

 

[410Fortune]

in art school we used a clear masking that can be cut, removed and re applied. This way you can spray one color, then put the masking bits back, then spray the other color, etc
BUT some of the tapes they make these days (like frog tape) are similar and can be cut in a similar way, some of the higer end masking tapes are very very good at sticking and re sticking as well as peeling up and leaving very crisp lines behind.
Your other option is of course to do the detail work BY HAND!!!! oooooooh artsy fartsy and use the vaseline method gmanpaint described (nice trick! would be great for painting engine blocks!)

 

[EddieMoney]

Found this Gonna give it a try. Incredible white mask liquid frisket.

Ofcourse after bringing it home and looking up how to use it, turns out its basically liquid latex( which I had already for Halloween makeup. Also read that model hobbyists use diluted Elmer's because it's cheaper. Well let's see how it turns out!!

 

[EddieMoney]

Had to get some chores done before fall sets in.
I'm hoping to get to the last one this weekend.

I'm wondering how much I can do in advance of painting?

My question is, once its primed and dry, i can paint whenever right?

Once I start painting with the single stage I have a set amount of time to complete all coats unless I feel like sanding it again, correct?

My concern is with the frisket. I dont want to leave that on too long because I've read it may be harder to remove.

If I can get it to peel off whole I can re-apply the frisket to the dry pieces and re stick them for the single stage paint and possibly clear coat.

Also, I havent experimented with applying the clear to the single stage so that is worrisome too. The clear is krylon brand.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[410Fortune]

FALL IS HERE came overnight with vengeance!!
Firewood season for us

Yes you can paint the piece whenever, just make sure no dust or dirt settles on it between coats. if it does use air / soap water to prep the part again

? I dunno about the single stage question #2 what does it say on the can?

Frisket I have not used since art school and even then it was always on paper.

clear coat from Krylon works okay
several light coats, once right after the other.

I like to bake all painted parts in the sun between coats let NO DUST/BUGS get on the clear coats!!

 

[EddieMoney]

I want to do the plastic adhesion and 2-3 coats of primer, then remove the frisket. Once its primed and I'm ready to do the single stage and clear. My concern was that the frisket would be hard to remove if I leave it on for a long time (day or 2) because I dont think I'll be able to do a good job if I do it all in one shot, so I need to do it in 2 phases. Prime then paint.

For me, starting is the hardest part because, I feel if you dont start off right you dont give yourself a fighting chance. A job worth doing is a job done right!!

I had a personal matter that turned into a crisis that took my concentration and confidence and used up the time I had alotted. So I didnt make the progress intended. Sorry. I will get this done and posted asap...

 

[410Fortune]

You do not have to apologize here
Hope your crisis turned out ok!

SH*& HAPPENS, truck stuff comes second........

 

[EddieMoney]

Back at it!!

Started by scuffing the 3 emblems with 400grit.

Cleaned and applied frisket mask to the places I didnt want paint.

I think I got the hang of the frisket mask by the end of the 3rd emblem. You need to finish each letter before it starts to set otherwise it will attach to the brush and start stinging up. I found it was better to push the frisket into the tight corners. I've never used this or attempted this before.

I let the frisket dry then applied 2 coats of bulldog plastic adhesion. It was 66°f and overcast. I waited 30 between coats.

Used up the last of my grey primer and let set 45min

Sprayed a 2nd coat with black primer.

Then this started appearing. Not sure what's causing it but I'm holding up here and letting it cure enough to sand. I'm undecided when to remove the frisket. I'm not sure if it's better to remove it while the primers still soft so it doesnt skin over or wait till its cured so I dont lift it???? Anybody???

 

[gmanpaint]

To me it looks like the paint is too thick.
Some paints have a window of time to apply another coat. If not done in that window, you need to wait like 24 hours, scuff, then coat it again. It's because they are volatile based, and will eggshell, crack, etc... the previous coat. What's the can say?

Never used that frisket stuff, so can't help there. If in doubt, pull it off, and sand the rest, then start over.

Probably replied too late, as I just seen your post. Email notifications aren't working for me for some reason.

 

[410Fortune]

too much primer!
I am not sure I have ever used a primer on plastic bits after the adhesion promoter?
What do the instructions on the adhesion promoter say?

I hope you are having fun! Peel that frisket off and lets see how it came out
I would like a nice V8 emblem in red for my BII lol

 

[gmanpaint]

Slow or fast dry paints dictate the base coat type. The fast dry paints are Hot, and need a base coat that can withstand the solvents in them.

Promoter is just there to give a bonding surface for the paints. It's not a primer. Paints that are not "Hot" based, can be applied directly over the promoter, like rattle can acrylics made for plastics, or slow dry enamels. Acrylics are fast dry, but there are different base types of acrylics. This type can be very confusing because of that.

2k Urethane paints are hot, and need a base that can handle the solvent's, and why primer is suggested. Single stage paint uses either self etching, or epoxy primers, but is made for metal application normally. Primers can also be Hot, and need a surface that won't give to their solvents.

Random stuff to consider when spray painting....

The windows given are because they need to be re-coated before the previous coat has fully dried, and still has solvents in it. Once enough solvent has gassed out, it can be damaged by the next coat as the new solvent eats into it. Cure time and dwell time are also terms used. 2k paints can take 30 days to gas out fully, and is the cure time. Rule of thumb here is if you can smell it, it's still curing. "To the touch" term just means the top has skinned over, but underneath is still wet and still drying. Tacky means just that, it's sticky but doesn't lift and leave paint on your finger, and soft enough to leave a print mark.

Fun fact... Some paint's dry by osmosis. 2 part industrial epoxy, and lacquers dry this way. If applied during high humidity, the water vapor in the air will be sucked in as it out gasses, being trapped under the surface. This is called Blushing. Blushing leaves a white foggy appearance in lacquer coats, and a yellowing appearance in epoxy. Both can be fixed by applying a hot solvent approved for thinning the paint. It opens up the surface and as it dries, it pulls the water vapor out with it, and as the surface dries again, it seals it back up as the vapor exits. No more Blushing.

 

[EddieMoney]

Well ya see the problem started when I picked up a can. Lol

Yes, yes, and more yes to both of you. I rushed from the get go. My intention was to get the primer on and peel off the frisket before the PAP and primer skinned over because Its the first time I've used it. I was also concerned about recoating before they were totally dry and finishing before the temperature dropped because it gets colder earlier now.

So here's what I did wrong, I probably didnt let the frisket dry completely first. Second, the PAP has a flex agent and I didnt let it gas off. Previously i waited 2 hours vs 30min this time. Can says I can apply a base coat 15min after the 3rd coat, I only did 2 coats. 3rd thing I did wrong was use rustoleum, it has a been known to do this according to lots of threads online due to it being a "hot" paint. So when I applied the second coat of primer it really began to shrink and crack.

A good painter learns from his mistakes by fixing them, I'm learning volumes!!! Lol.

It was good that I stopped when I did. I decided to let them cure a full 48 hours before I try to remove the frisket to see how well that stuff works. Might as well experiment...

To be continued..

 

[EddieMoney]

Im back at it but I have a question.

I think Im using a single stage urethane paint and some have suggested clearing it as well. The only clear I can find in a can are acrylic enamel. Every search regarding enamel over urethane comes up urethane over enamel. Am I going backwards? Lol. Urethane is supposed to be better than acrylic enamels but I cant find a urethane clear. Can someone enlighten me please.

 

[gmanpaint]

Urethane is the 2 part. Click that link I posted for Eastwood. They have it in a spray can.

If you want to try something out of the ordinary..... plastidip has a gloss clearcoat with uv protection. It will go on anything.

I did an experiment with it back in 2016. I wanted to be different on something. Installed a new set of 3/8" shackles that was raw steel. I shined them up with flap discs, sprayed them with rustoleum oil clear for rust inhibitors, then a few coats of the plastidip clear for the uv protection. 3 years later, and they still look great.

 

[EddieMoney]

This is all new to me. I'm trying to combine the correct products.

Single stage urethane has the clear in it but can be cleared for added UV protection. Automotive paint has evolved from lacquer, to enamel and now urethane. Urethane is supposed to be more durable. I am only finding acrylic enamel clear coating and that seems like going backwards.

I wonder if eastwood will sell the 2nd part of the 2stage by itself?

View attachment 174234

 

[Paul]

Late to the thread (as usual), but here's another option (available through Amazon).

Might be sacrilege to the SVT "purists", but all the work being executed on your rig qualifies . . .

Paul
'91 Sport
'11 Ranger FX4