- Joined
- August 3, 2000
- Messages
- 35,106
- Reaction score
- 12,047
- City, State
- NORTH IDAHO, 7B
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- B2 "Slightly" Modified
- Callsign
- FOURTEN
Okay I have needed to replace my canister purge solenoid for some time and I finally got around to it so I thought I would share my findings.
First off lets start with why it needed to be replaced:
1. Tons of pressure in the gas tank. Usually after a hard run, big change in altitude, hot day, or towing. Crack the gas cap and air rushes out for a few seconds. Try to fill up at the gas pump and it would not allow the pump to operate (back pressure in tank)
2. Strong gas odor after idle for a long time, after a long hard run, etc...
3. Because it has 100K miles on it
Proceedure: (91-94, may work other years, not sure)
-Get new one from Napa, $20 approx
-Do yourself a favor and unplug the vacuum line from the chacoal (purge) canister itself, and the throttle body. take the whole assembly inside. The reason for this is a few of the fittings in the nylon fuel lines are plastic, brittle, and if you break one you are screwed! Also the cansiter purge itself has plastic fittings and if you break this it's back to Napa and you just threw $20 in the trash.
-Boil some water. The nylon high pressure fual lines on these trucks are very stiff, trying to force the lines over the plastic fittings = broken parts = lost money = you angry.
-You can cut or pull the lines off the old canister purge valve, your choice. I pulled mine off very carefully after heating the ends up with a blow dryer.
-To press the lines onto the new canister purge valve boil the ends of the lines in the water, then press them on VERY slowly and carefully
-Re-install and pat yourself on the back for not breaking anything. I have watched a friend of mine break two of thse suckers before he finally took it off the truck and used the heat solution. He ended up buying 3 valves and one trip to the junk yard for a new 90 degree elbow that goes right under the throttle body.
What did it fix?
-No more pressure in gas tank when cap is removed
-NO more strong fuel smell
-Loss of power when really hot out (I didnt think it was running right, turns out it wasnt!)
-I also (to my surprise) noticed a MUCH smoother idle, both when warm and under first start up in the morning.
-Easier starting. Fires right up like it used to, lately it had been cranking a few times.
Why?
The cansiter purge valve sticks in the OPEN position when it goes bad, meaning it is always purging the charcoal canister back to the fuel tank. Obviously, besides building up pressure in your tank it also backs up the whole fuel system and will not allow the fuel pressure regualtor to function properly, thus the injectors, pump, and regulator are all working extra hard to keep up.
Hope that helps!!!
First off lets start with why it needed to be replaced:
1. Tons of pressure in the gas tank. Usually after a hard run, big change in altitude, hot day, or towing. Crack the gas cap and air rushes out for a few seconds. Try to fill up at the gas pump and it would not allow the pump to operate (back pressure in tank)
2. Strong gas odor after idle for a long time, after a long hard run, etc...
3. Because it has 100K miles on it
Proceedure: (91-94, may work other years, not sure)
-Get new one from Napa, $20 approx
-Do yourself a favor and unplug the vacuum line from the chacoal (purge) canister itself, and the throttle body. take the whole assembly inside. The reason for this is a few of the fittings in the nylon fuel lines are plastic, brittle, and if you break one you are screwed! Also the cansiter purge itself has plastic fittings and if you break this it's back to Napa and you just threw $20 in the trash.
-Boil some water. The nylon high pressure fual lines on these trucks are very stiff, trying to force the lines over the plastic fittings = broken parts = lost money = you angry.
-You can cut or pull the lines off the old canister purge valve, your choice. I pulled mine off very carefully after heating the ends up with a blow dryer.
-To press the lines onto the new canister purge valve boil the ends of the lines in the water, then press them on VERY slowly and carefully
-Re-install and pat yourself on the back for not breaking anything. I have watched a friend of mine break two of thse suckers before he finally took it off the truck and used the heat solution. He ended up buying 3 valves and one trip to the junk yard for a new 90 degree elbow that goes right under the throttle body.
What did it fix?
-No more pressure in gas tank when cap is removed
-NO more strong fuel smell
-Loss of power when really hot out (I didnt think it was running right, turns out it wasnt!)
-I also (to my surprise) noticed a MUCH smoother idle, both when warm and under first start up in the morning.
-Easier starting. Fires right up like it used to, lately it had been cranking a few times.
Why?
The cansiter purge valve sticks in the OPEN position when it goes bad, meaning it is always purging the charcoal canister back to the fuel tank. Obviously, besides building up pressure in your tank it also backs up the whole fuel system and will not allow the fuel pressure regualtor to function properly, thus the injectors, pump, and regulator are all working extra hard to keep up.
Hope that helps!!!
