Can't get timing cover back on

[mf7365]

So I black rtv'ed everything, put the timing cover gasket in place and can not get the timing cover back on. Now I just have a huge mess to clean up before trying again tomorrow.
Question: I just took off the cover by removing the 4 bolts going through the oil pan into the cover and the remaining oil pan gasket sticking out was metal sandwiched btw. Silicon. I removed the silicon and left the metal. Should I remove the metal too, and if so how?
I just can't get the dowels to line up and the u part of the cover to seat all the way back. Anything I'm missing or ideas would be great.

 

[crunchie_frog]

gotta drop the oil pan as far as I know. Drop the oil pan, better replace the oil pan gasket. As far as I know, if it is a 5.0, gotta start with the pull the engine procedure until you can put a new gasket on the oil pan.

 

[mf7365]

From my research on this forum so far, There seem to be quite a few people who have done this without dropping the oil pan and removing the engine. And the Haynes book even explains the process of doing this without dropping the pan, which is what I have followed. I just can't for some reason get both alignment pins/dowels to slide in together. I can get one or the other but not both.

 

[1998Exp]

I am one of those who have done this without dropping the pan. It is tight but possible. You may have packed too much sealant on top of the metal gasket at the bottom and it's being squeezed now against the block, preventing the cover from fully seating. Or a piece of the original silicone lining got stuck there. No experience with that because the metal gasket in mine was mangled from the disassembly, so I just cut if off and replaced with the two pieces of lame cork supplied with the timing gasket -- so far so good. If you do this don't repeat my mistake and do not tighten the four bottom bolts to the book spec -- that's intended for metal and is way too much for cork.
Make sure that there is nothing trapped under the timing cover. Disconnect and pull away the wires going to the oil pressure sender and to the crank position sensor. I had a similar problem and discovered that the oil pressure sensor wire got caught underneath.

From my research on this forum so far, There seem to be quite a few people who have done this without dropping the oil pan and removing the engine. And the Haynes book even explains the process of doing this without dropping the pan, which is what I have followed. I just can't for some reason get both alignment pins/dowels to slide in together. I can get one or the other but not both.

 

[mf7365]

So now I have the timing cover going on over the dowels with the bottom u gasket in place, but the 2 larger bolts on the oil pan coming up will not go in. This thing is driving me to the edge. Every time I solve one problem another pops up. I'm wondering if I should just cut the remaining metal oil pan gasket pieces on each side and go with the crappy cork pieces in the kit? It's hard to tell if the metal pieces are getting the way or not. I've already gone through 2 timing cover gaskets now. :scratch:

 

[bobflood]

I just finished this job. I had to drop the oil pan as far as it would go (I undid all the bolts all the way around) and very carefully separate the oil pan gasket from the old timing chain cover and the front of the oil pan. I did NOT try to replace the oil pan gasket; I reused it in place. I installed the timing cover back in place and torqued it down to spec to the front of the engine before raising the oil pan back into place. It went back together fine and does not appear to leak at all. Good luck.

 

[mf7365]

So, everything is almost done, except I need to put the harmonic balancer pulley back on and then the radiator. Do I need a special tool to put it on or just use the bolt and torque it down and do I need to remove the starter and get a special tool to hold it so it does not just spin? Can you loan these from autozone? Also, do you need to rtv around the crankshaft shaft/spline to seal it when you put on the balancer pulley?

 

[koda2000]

if the harmonic balancer uses a center bolt, i usually just use the bolt (often you need a longer one to get it started) and my impact gun to drive it on. whatever you do, don't hit it with a hammer. if you don't have an impact wrench, you'll need to hold the flywheel/flexplate in order to tighten the bolt.

 

[1998Exp]

Some just use the center bolt to re-install the pulley. I would not recommend this approach, because even if you manage, there are not enough threads engaged, and you may strip the bolt, or worse, damage the crankshaft. Use an installer tool. These are available for rent from most auto stores. A good one will also have a thrust bearing, so you don't need to fight the friction against the pulley as you are turning the bolt.
I would not use an impact wrench because of the unknown torque. You will probably over-torque the bolt this way, which could make it extremely difficult to remove next time. Use a torque wrench and hold the crank. Some just stick a screwdriver in the ring gear on the flexplate (through the inspection hole; no need to remove the starter). This sounds a bit brutal for my taste, so I prefer to hold the pulley. I improvised a tool by drilling two holes in a 1-1/2 ft long piece of flat steel. I attach it to the threaded holes in the pulley with a pair of long bolts and let it rest against the frame. Makes the operation a breeze.

And yes, you need to seal around the keyway to prevent oil seepage through there.

So, everything is almost done, except I need to put the harmonic balancer pulley back on and then the radiator. Do I need a special tool to put it on or just use the bolt and torque it down and do I need to remove the starter and get a special tool to hold it so it does not just spin? Can you loan these from autozone? Also, do you need to rtv around the crankshaft shaft/spline to seal it when you put on the balancer pulley?

 

[bobflood]

Like Koda, I used an impact on the lowest torque setting to spin down the bolt and pull the harmonic balancer into place. Then I loosened the bolt, used a strap wrench to hold the pulley, and re-torqued the bolt using a torque wrench. IIRC, it would be pretty hard to over-torque that bolt, as it called for quite a lot of torque in the spec. Good luck.

 

[mf7365]

So I rtv'ed around the spline and key and then used the center bolt to but the pulley/harmonic balancer/timing key ring on. On my mountaineer all of those were one big piece. To finish torquing I put the accessory belt back on and put a pry bar btw the bolts on the water pump pulley. It held fine and it finished torquing. Tomorrow morning I'm going to fill up the radiator, turn the key and pray for no leaks. If everything is good I'm probably taking it in to have the radiator flushed and refilled. I've spent enough time on it at this point.