Removing timing cover on 4.0 OHV

[fast_dave]

re iterate tension





snapped a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter righty tighty

Post #22 Picture of Breaker Bar with Cheater Pipe aligned and ready for Crank Pulley BOLT REMOVAL.

*DISCONNECT COIL so the engine will not run!

* Snug up/pre-load the 1/2" breaker bar and cheater pipe up to the top of the driver's side frame rail,

* Go inside cabin, and hit the ignition switch.

NOTE: Sometimes all the planets are aligned, and your pre-load is precise, this method works the first time around.

Sometimes it takes two or three attempts due to the socket/breaker bar coming off of the Crank Pulley Bolt.

DO NOT under any circumstances have anybody hold down the breaker bar/cheater pipe when attempting to do this!!!

 

[fast_dave]

Link to 2nd Write Up on this subject: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/4-0-ohv-timing-cover-gasket-issues.470322/

This write up covers the special torquing order due to gravity wanting to make the timing cover move downwards.

 

[Wade29]

Engine will need to be removed for that it's a pain on these small trucks

I'll be interested in how changing the oil pan gasket goes. Keep us updated. I don't think its very easy on 4x4.

 

[Sip]

I changed my cam, timing chain, and gears with my 4.0 ohv still in the truck. Snoranger is right, its a pretty simple thing to do.

Taking your fan blade, and balancer off will be the hardest part. You will need a strap wrench to hold the motor in place to loosen the balancer bolt.

I'd probably pull the rad, as that's really easy to do also(You already drained the coolant anyway). It will save you some swearing.

Leave the water pump attached to the timing chain cover. No sense disturbing it if you don't have to. I'm still on my factory pump.

And yes, when the timing cover goes back on, use some rtv at the corners of oil pan to timing cover after cleaning the oil up in the area.

I would pay you to change mind on my Ford Explorer 91 are you located in Texas?

 

[Sip]

The balancer MUST come off. It goes through the timing cover.

You dont need to pull the pan. There are a few bolts that go through the pan and attach it to the timing cover, they have to come out.

You dont even have to remove the water pump from the cover to pull it, but it makes it easier. (none of the water pump bolts go into the block.)

I need to do my timing cover gasket change too. I’m seeing oil leaking around the bolts. Is that normal? Do timing covers have oil in them?

 

[Sip]

I would pay you to change mind on my Ford Explorer 91 are you located in Texas?

Dono, do timing covers have oil in them? I’m seeing oil around my timing cover bolts and also seeing coolant leaking around my timing cover.... I’m assuming it’s the gasket.

 

[Sip]

Got my parts through Auto Zone. I didn't replace the oil pan gasket or timing chain. I was having problems with starter and just replaced timing cover gasket. It's not that difficult, just remember to change your oil after you replace the timing cover gasket

I have Ford 91 4.0 and I need to change my timing cover gasket. Was removing the harmonic balancer hard for you and what gasket did you use? Is it holding up?

 

[Sip]

i been following your progress dave .way to go .alot of work though .i am so glad my mechanic done mine for 200 bucks ...:and that included slapping in new timing gears .

of course i provided all the parts .he just charges me labor .

so you done now?

You were blessed! How many days did it take?

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

This may have already been said but i always just go ahead and yank the grill, radiator, fan shroud ect none of it is hard to come off and saves the headache and so much more room.

 

[fast_dave]

You were blessed! How many days did it take?

@Sip

I took a week - it's a big job.

Lots of research, planning, acquiring correct repair parts, labeling zip-loc bags, taking pics of progress and how things were oriented so that when I reassembled I could look at reference pictures.

 

[Sip]

@Sip

I took a week - it's a big job.

Lots of research, planning, acquiring correct repair parts, labeling zip-loc bags, taking pics of progress and how things were oriented so that when I reassembled I could look at reference pictures.

 

[Sip]

That’s good. I have to get mine done, but tight in money now, but what do you think a reasonable price would be if I paid some to do it? I wish I could pay you lol

 

[fast_dave]

That’s good. I have to get mine done, but tight in money now, but what do you think a reasonable price would be if I paid some to do it? I wish I could pay you lol

@Sip

Sorry, I couldn't tell you because I do all my own repairs.

It's a serious undertaking that has quite a few variables for oil or coolant leaks after spending all that time on disassemble/reassemble.

And a few years after the original write-up, my timing cover gasket tore on the topside, and I had to author a Part 2 to the write up (post #82 of this thread). I learned a lesson on bolt tightening sequencing from that experience, all explained in the 2nd write-up.

I'm in the PRK where mechanics charge $85 per hour...