Removing timing cover on 4.0 OHV

[joe doe]

great job dave and some great pictures too .gotta be a great feeling firing it up and knowing you did it yourself .
now i am off to save some of your pictures for future reference .thanks for posting great pictures .

 

[98Ranger4.0]

Yeah I gotta say that was a really good write up!

 

[fast_dave]

Thanks for that "atta boy" guys!

Yes, it's very satisfying to wake up this morning, knowing that I did the repair work by myself - but I got a lot of tips and support from this forum - both on this thread and also via PM. Special thanks, in no particular order, are extended to: Texan01, DONO, joe doe, snoranger, ranger7ltr, and 98Ranger4.0

Best tips gathered from this forum/website: Heating the crank pulley/harmonic balancer assembly in the oven before re-assembly was at the top of my list, with how to get off the crank bolt easily was a close second, and using a 1/4" socket extension to facilitate the removal of the crank pulley/harmonic balancer assembly.

If asked what was the hardest part, I'd reply that getting the crank pulley/harmonic balancer assembly off of the crank was easily the most frustrating first, and hardest when you take into account that you have you ensure that the two M8 removal bolts are SQUARE with the pulley (as well as in the correct holes since there are 3), and the fact that you have to take off the removal tool a couple of times while re-adjusting the crank bolt, then removing the crank bolt and installing the 1/4 socket extension. You're performing all of this while on your back, straining your neck, and I'd never, ever attempt this procedure without taking out the Radiator - you've been warned

Also, I'm glad that I was also able to give back and add some of my own tips & tricks to the forum. I never thought a $3 strap wrench would be such a valuable asset - do yourself a favor and buy one for your tool box. I'm extremely happy to show that you guys that you can avoid getting coolant/anti-freeze in your oil pan while performing this repair. I'm very satisfied to figure out why the Ford of Germany engine designers chose to use the green teflon coated paper timing chain cover gasket. Who knows - maybe the mods will choose to add this thread as a sticky?

 

[masospaghetti]

Thanks for the writeup, fastdave.

I just did this job myself and while not terribly difficult, its somewhat time consuming. It's annoying to break the crank pulley bolt loose without an impact tool but I was able to do it with a strap wrench AND having a helper push the brake (with the vehicle in drive, wheels blocked). BTW, the crank pulley bolt is a torque-to-yield bolt and should be replaced once its removed. Approx $12 a the Ford dealer.

Removing the timing components was easy and I was able to loosen the camshaft sprocket just by having the wheels blocked, and the transmission in gear. Gear slides right off. The crank gear also slides off without a puller, a welcome surprise after my previous job on a 2.8 chevy V6. The tensioner and guide are both affixed with two screws/bolts.

I heated my balancer with a small heater prior to installation and it slid far enough on the crank to get the new crank bolt threaded. With relative ease, the pulley slid home while the bolt was tightened.

 

[fast_dave]

Thanks for the writeup, fastdave.
BTW, the crank pulley bolt is a torque-to-yield bolt and should be replaced once its removed. Approx $12 a the Ford dealer.

Thanks for "atta boy" on the writeup! It was my pleasure passing on some information in exchange for all the information I've got off the forum.

RE: FORD recommended replacement of torque-to-yield crank bolt on crank pulley.

Yes, I have read some write ups where guys said that you must replace the used crank bolt...

And I read a lot of write ups where guys said "don't worry about it, your crank pulley ain't ever going to come off, screw the old bolt in until it torques down and won't turn any more and you're good to go..."

In all the write ups I researched regarding crank pulley removal, I never read one where the writer said it was a piece of cake and effortlessly slid right off. Everyone said it is a ***** -and when I got past the "textbook phase" and got down and dirty with that whole crank pulley removal process, I too affirm that it is indeed a ***** - even with the correct tool and years of wrenching experience.

So, after directly dealing with the SUPER VIRGIN TIGHT press fit of the crank pulley on that loooooooonnnnnnggggg crankshaft "snout" - and then to add that there is ALSO a very large crankshaft key that also fits into the crankshaft pulley (thus offering the crank pulley even more support), I figured that I'd throw caution into the wind and take my chances and re-use the old crankshaft bolt. For good measure, I coated the old bolt with Locktite blue, and screwed that sucker in with a breaker bar and cheater pipe ;-)

In my mind, even if the West Coast ever gets hit by a North Korean Nuke, one thing I'm pretty sure of is that my crank pulley will continue to be connected to the snout of my crankshaft with it's used TTY crank bolt ;-)

 

[masospaghetti]

I totally agree that the crank pulley isn't going anywhere. My fear (and, for the peace in my mind worth $12) was that the bolt's threads had stretched and thus may strip off in the hole. The last thing I wanted was to have screwed up threads in my crankshaft. Yeah, I'd say you're probably safe reusing the bolt. But: I have to believe Ford chose to put a TTY bolt here for a reason.

 

[snoranger]

Yes, that bolt is TTY.
Yes, you should replace it.
No, I didnt and it held for over 100K miles.
No, I'm not worried it will come off.

 

[Dawg]

I'll be interested in how changing the oil pan gasket goes. Keep us updated. I don't think its very easy on 4x4.

Have done this twice on my sons after doing a timing job, needed to make sure the pickup tube was clean so the oil pressure stayed up.

 

[Dawg]

I'll be interested in how changing the oil pan gasket goes. Keep us updated. I don't think its very easy on 4x4.

Have done this twice on my sons 99, had to make sure the oil pickup tube was clear to keep the pressure up after a timing job.....very simple. All you need is a 10 mm short, 10 mm deep socket, a 3/8" (or whatever size rachet) breakover, a a 3" and a 6" extension...very simple job.

 

[Dono]

Have done this twice on my sons 99, had to make sure the oil pickup tube was clear to keep the pressure up after a timing job.....very simple. All you need is a 10 mm short, 10 mm deep socket, a 3/8" (or whatever size rachet) breakover, a a 3" and a 6" extension...very simple job.

So, you were able to do this with the motor in the vehicle on a 4x4 ?

 

[98Ranger4.0]

You can do this with the motor in, it's in the Ford service manual that way. You can lift the motor with an engine lift bar, Harbor Freight has one, only have to lift the engine about 1 inch.

 

[Dono]

You can do this with the motor in, it's in the Ford service manual that way. You can lift the motor with an engine lift bar, Harbor Freight has one, only have to lift the engine about 1 inch.

Excellent. Thanks. This is great info. Truly, its not that big of a deal to loosen the engine mounts, and lift an inch.

 

[lobo411]

NOW here's the big tip - after breaking the crank bolt loose, you have to LEAVE IT IN and BACK IT OUT almost all the way! DO NOT REMOVE IT and try to use the "pointed" attachments that come with the HF Crank Puller Kit - use the flat/cupped one.

Great tip about using the bolt and the 1/4" 6" extension to work out the balancer! I have to disagree with you about using the flat attachment instead of the pointy attachment, though. I used the flat one first and it went really easy--too easy. It turned out that the flat one was mating with the bolt head and screwing it back in rather than forcing the balancer off the shaft. I switched to the pointy attachment figuring that the point was a lot less likely to turn the bolt than a flat edge, and it worked fine.

 

[lobo411]

TIt's annoying to break the crank pulley bolt loose without an impact tool but I was able to do it with a strap wrench AND having a helper push the brake (with the vehicle in drive, wheels blocked).

I tried the strap wrench trick and a 1/2" impact wrench and it wasn't enough to break the bolt. Instead, I stuck the shaft end of a drill bit into one of the holes on the balancer, removed the crankshaft sensor, and rotated the balancer until the drill bit wedged against the timing chain cover. It was a big risk (gouging out the aluminum cover wouldn't be difficult), but it worked w/o causing damage.

 

[lobo411]

Update--the balancer is now installed and torqued! I thought I'd be smart and order "the right" installation tool from Amazon, which cost me $80. I also borrowed the loaner from Autozone. Sure enough, neither set had a fitting long enough to catch even a single thread, so I had to use the oven technique along with a lot of "persuasion" using a rubber mallet to get the new balancer on enough to thread the old bolt. Once I was satisfied with the alignment of the balancer with the rest of the pulleys, I removed the old bolt and installed a brand new bolt. I tightened that until my strap wrench couldn't stop the motor from turning anymore, and then I used my drill-bit trick to lock things in place for torquing. Chilton's didn't list any kind of special tightening procedure so I just went ahead and torqued it to the specified 37 ft-lbs. I'll put the rest of the car back together tomorrow.

Oddly, both the Autozone set and the installer I bought were well made in the USA by a company called OTC. The manufacturer even lists this kit as compatible with Ford's 4.0L OHV V-6. Why can't these fools be bothered to lengthen the M12 1.5 fitting just another inch or two? Wouldn't it be worth it, considering the huge number of 4.0L engines out there?

 

[joe doe]

maybe complain to amazon and get your money back on the kit .

 

[lobo411]

maybe complain to amazon and get your money back on the kit .

Ya I did, and I got free return shipping so I'm not out any money. I was wrong that the company specifically lists the kit as compatible with the 4.0L v6, though. Apparently this is the kit that is specifically listed as compatible with the engine:

http://www.otctools.com/products/master_harmonic_balancer_installer

Whether it is or not...I'll leave that to some other intrepid product tester!

 

[lobo411]

One last point. The original balancer seemed like it was in fine shape, although I did used to have an odd/random chirping sound from the front of the engine that I could never track down. So I replaced it with this one from Dorman:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C122LM

The item painted in light blue, and I installed it that way. The first run or two was fine, but then I started getting a lot of belt noise. I cleaned all the pulleys and lightly sanded the belt, and then I noticed that the blue coating on the balancer washes right off/out of the belt tracks with carb cleaner. A few squirts got it down to bare metal, and now it runs nice and quiet.

I'm going to replace the belt anyway as soon as my Dayco arrives from Rockauto. The belt is fine by the book, but I figure 10 years' service is about all I can rightly expect from it.

 

[fast_dave]

I tried the strap wrench trick and a 1/2" impact wrench and it wasn't enough to break the bolt. Instead, I stuck the shaft end of a drill bit into one of the holes on the balancer, removed the crankshaft sensor, and rotated the balancer until the drill bit wedged against the timing chain cover. It was a big risk (gouging out the aluminum cover wouldn't be difficult), but it worked w/o causing damage.

Here's a late FYI just to ressurect the thread

Look closely at the pictures in this thread.

Here's the strap wrench I used during my repair.

It has the strongest dual level nylon thread reinforced rubber strap (like a car tire) of any strapwrench I've ever used. The handle is fiberglass reinforced nylon.

I first found this brand/model at a professional auto parts dealer in Sweden (Biltema), and since then, it's been saving the day for me more times than I can remember - seriously.

I have one for work, one for around the house chores, and a few extras in my home toolbox.

It's an "Empire Level 28620 Strap Wrench"

I highly suggest this tool - they're around $20 and you can find them on Ebay and Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-28620-Strap-Wrench/dp/B0015YLLRG

 

[rodb]

Does the water pump pulley even need to come off if not removing water pump from timing cover ?