Cap and hardware (photos)

[Kjhadfield]

Cap and hardware (photos) ADDED wiring

Ok, maybe I'll get more help out here in the open.

I want to see how you hooked up your cap/topper/camper shell (whatever you call it). What clamp you used and size/type of bolts that go into the bed. I sold my factory cover and along with the striker and bolts. Now I don't know the size of that bolt 100% and don't want to force and screw up the threads. Looked at the ford parts diagram and think it's a M6x20-25.

I also purchased clamps, the tite lok tl111s but it didn't come with the screw or bolt for the st, just the bolt for the Chevy sport side. So again I don't know what bolt should be used. It doesn't even look like it would be a bolt but more a flat head style because the bracket has a tapered hole for flush mount. How would this hold up strength wise versus a hex bolt?

I will post up a photo in a bit. Should these bolts/clamps be torque

Thanks for the help

Go to post #26 to see how I wired the brake light

 

[Kjhadfield]

This is the clamp

The bolt with the wing nut thing is for the Chevy and the hole below that hole is for the st

I picked these up but not sure about the strength or material

What suggestions on the bolt and material to use

 

[429CJ-3X2]

They're 6mm bolts. Strength shouldn't matter much because there's not a lot of stress on those bolts.

I meant to post pics on your other post last night, but a storm knocked out our power before I got it done.

 

[Kjhadfield]

They're 6mm bolts. Strength shouldn't matter much because there's not a lot of stress on those bolts.

I meant to post pics on your other post last night, but a storm knocked out our power before I got it done.

View attachment 78479

View attachment 78480

Thanks for posting photos. Do you think the bolt or screw I pictured would be good. I keep thinking that black bolt will screw me down the road with rust or seizing. See yours, the bracket section doesn't look like it has a taper for the hole. Although I wonder if I used a hex like bolt, like you, if the head part being bigger would sit flush above the taper instead off in the taper. Am I just thinking to much about it?
How about torque?

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I don't think the bolt will rust or seize. 30mm won't have much of he threads exposed, and inside the topper it's not really exposed anyway.

I think I would use a regular hex head bolt and washer rather than the tapered hole. The clamp is going to stick out and be in the way long before the bolt head will be in the way.

I tightened mine down tight, but didn't really apply much torque. I'm not sure how easy it is to pull the threaded inserts out of the truck box. Should be pretty solid though.

Keep in mind I just recently got my topper, and have only put it on once. And I've only had my truck for 16 months, so I'm still learning about it.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Looks like you drilled the new hole in the right spot.

 

[Kjhadfield]

What do you mean by the 30mm bolts won't have much exposed, you mean exposed from the back side by being to long? What size/length did you use?
The holes came drilled new with that taper. The top hole for the Chevy step side and the bottom for our st. I guess the company thought to save $ by making it a dual vehicle application.
I think the hex head bolt and washer sounds like a better idea too. I wouldn't have to worry about stripping the head like with the kind I pictured above.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

What do you mean by the 30mm bolts won't have much exposed, you mean exposed from the back side by being to long?

Yes, that's what I mean. I don't know how long my bolts are, probably 40 or 50 mm. They, and the clamps, came with the cap. They're longer than they really need to be.

 

[swshawaii]

Put a light coat of anti seize on the threads before installing. Very effective on exposed
fasteners at preventing corrosion. A small amount goes a long way, doesn't take much. GL

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

 

[Kjhadfield]

Forgot to ask if anyone uses the foam tape (1-sided sticky) on the bottom of the cap rails? Is it really needed/suggested

Put a light coat of anti seize on the threads before installing. Very effective on exposed
fasteners at preventing corrosion. A small amount goes a long way, doesn't take much. GL

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...ti-seize/permatex-anti-seize-lubricant-detail

Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely do that.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

I used the tape just to be safe. I don't know how necessary it is, though. My ARE cap has a decent rubber gasket, but it is somewhat crushed, so I used the tape.

 

[Kjhadfield]

I used the tape just to be safe. I don't know how necessary it is, though. My ARE cap has a decent rubber gasket, but it is somewhat crushed, so I used the tape.

What rubber gasket you refer to? I don't see this on mine. I had a rubber like edge molding I took off the lip (all the way around), it was peeling off more than 1/2 so I took it off in the hope of possibly cleaning the sticky off and reapply. But that may be to much work

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Mine has a trim around it, too, but it also has a rubber gasket on the bottom of the cap rails where it sits on the truck. Serves the same purpose as the foam tape. I just added the foam tape for an extra measure of protection between the cap and the truck since the rubber gasket is crushed.

 

[Kjhadfield]

Well, I cleaned the underside of the cap rails to get off left over pieces of the old seal. I used goo gone to get all the sticky and simple green to clean and then wiped with isopropyl alcohol.
I bought the weather seal from auto zone for 15$. It's 1.25 wide rubber type foam.

Then attached it, lined it up and clamped her down.
I used tite lok #tl111s , 4 for 26$ but was missing the bolts for the brackets. Went ace and got 6mm-30 with 1/4 washers for 4$.

Here she is…

Still have to hookup the 3rd brake light and possibly take out the battery dome light for wired led strips. Might clean and spray the inside fiberglass

 

[Kjhadfield]

So with the hardware and tape, installed I'm in for 165

 

[429CJ-3X2]

That's a good deal.
The one I have must be an upgrade from the model you have. Mine has a rubber gasket where you put the foam tape, and it's lined with thin indoor/outdoor carpet. I haven't wired mine yet, either.

The market for Sport Trac caps is a strange one. The demand seems to exceed the supply. The people looking for one are willing to pay good money, and the few people who have one they don't want sell them cheap - except for the guy I bought mine from! Actually his uncle, from whom he bought the truck, was the one who understands the supply/demand for these.

Today I saw a black or dark blue '01 ST with a cap on the same dealer lot where I bought my truck. I want to get over and check it out tomorrow. (Car lots aren't allowed to be open on Sundays in Iowa so people like me can look over the cars without being hassled by sales people. That really is the reason for the law keeping them closed on Sunday.)

 

[Kjhadfield]

I figured my model out, the cx. Does yours have the rear hatch hinges on the outside or inside? Mines on the outside. All in all I'm happy. Between getting the cap fixed up like I want and the radio bezel/console from you, I have to finish these projects before I start buying again. For some reason i bounce back and forth between projects while adding more before I finish the last

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Mine hinges just like yours.

If you finished one project before starting another, you'd be the only one who works that way.

In January, I went to the salvage yard, spotted a good console lid & decided to get it. Then decided to pull the whole console. The seats felt comfy, so I went back to get them another day. I bought them for the '02 ST, but when I checked the driver's seat a couple of weeks ago in preparation to put it in, I discovered the lumbar bag doesn't hold air. I went back and found a set with the manual lumbar adjustment, and put the 1st seat in the '01. Just could not get it so I felt comfortable - there's something hard that presses on my tailbone - so I pulled it out to put the original back in. I figured as long as I was switching seats again, I should try the second seat in the '01 before I wire the '02 for the power seat. That seat is now staying in the '01 and I went back and found another one for the '02. One thing leads to another. One project creates another or 2 or 3.

 

[Kjhadfield]

You might have the cx model also just with upgraded features such as the carpet and/or a newer model. Was told the old cx model had the double sliding front window whereas the newer version was a single slide. Either way if the original owner did a "build-a-bear" version you can upgrade features.
I'm definitely going to paint the inside, cause no carpet, it looks ugh. Either regular black or even try that bed liner stuff<--probably give the 2nd a try.
Already looking into led strips for the dome lights, thinking 2 towards the ends up top. Would like to wire it to the hinges for auto on open. Right now I have the halogen battery powered dome. Just took it out to see if I can clean the corroded terminals for now.
And eventually I want to replace the 3rd brake light, it just looks too slim for me. Can't go bigger length because it sits in that recess but can go bigger width.

So true, 1 projects leads to another. I'm far behind, had the truck for near 5 yrs before I started doing stuff for it.

 

[429CJ-3X2]

Mine has the single front window that slides open, and our side windows are slightly different. The front and rear sections of mine are equal size, where your front section is longer than the rear. It looks like the window assemblies would swap between yours and mine, though.

Here are some pics of the one on the car lot. I just went to look at it, but didn't think to take my camera. DOH!! Sharp truck!! Equipped almost exactly like my '01, except mine has fog lights and the moon roof. Didn't see a brand name on the topper. It's slightly different from ours. The front edge of the roof is straighter except for a recess for the 3rd brake light.