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Chasing a coolant leak

jd4242

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You can start it but will need to plug the vac line under the tb.
 
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MaioCampo

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Cool. I'll give it a try tomorrow evening. Woohoo!

Hey, are there any torque specs for the retainer bolts that hold the fuel rail on, and the nuts that hold the upper manifold on? I couldn't find any, so just tightened them down good. But I was curious.
 
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jd4242

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Should have came with the gasket set.
 
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MaioCampo

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Unfortunately the gasket set came with instructions only for the LIM gaskets. But I think I found what I needed from my Haynes manual. See if this sounds right:

Intake manifold bolts/nuts:
Step 1: 72 in-lbs (6 ft lbs)
Step 2: 144 in-lbs (12 ft lbs)
Step 3: 192 in-lbs (16 ft lbs)

Intake manifold studs-to-block: 72 to 84 in-lbs (6 to 7 ft lbs)
 
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jd4242

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Sounds about right.ill check and see if I have them around but if they came out the book I'm sure that's right
 
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jd4242

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Crap just remembered I took all my gaskets to my shop.swear it had the spec and sequence on there.what you post sounds like it tho, did it tell you a sequence at all ?
 
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MaioCampo

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Cool. The nut torque seemed a little high, but I'm just now learning the feel of things. Heh.

I don't recall seeing a sequence for these in either my Hayes or Chilton manuals. I'll double-check. Typically if a sequence isn't provided I go with something similar to what is provided for the LIM.
 
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jd4242

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Cool. The nut torque seemed a little high, but I'm just now learning the feel of things. Heh.

I don't recall seeing a sequence for these in either my Hayes or Chilton manuals. I'll double-check. Typically if a sequence isn't provided I go with something similar to what is provided for the LIM.

Yep I do same thing, good habit to always use a cross pattern of some sort.I don't have any paper work left with these gaskets by the way, just on big box full of gaskets.

Sounds like your about done:salute:
 
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MaioCampo

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DSC02187_zps88f99842.jpg


The hose to the canister here is a rubber hose, but the hose that goes to the throttle body is hard plastic. Can that just be replaced by rubber as well? I read where someone wrote that they replaced it with fuel rated hose, but I'm not sure I know what that means.

jd4242 said:
Sounds like your about done

Almost. The valve should be here tomorrow, or Saturday. I'll slap that on, then get the UIM back on, the coil, the upper radiator hose, top off the coolant, and get everything plugged back up,... then hopefully have some joy.

The Explorer has been sitting for a full two weeks, a good portion of that with its innerds open to the air. Is there anything that needs to be done to make the first start gentle? I figure not, just pray and turn the key. Heh.
 
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MaioCampo

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MaioCampo said:
I read where someone wrote that they replaced it with fuel rated hose, but I'm not sure I know what that means.

I got too focused, thinking of vacuum hose. I think the writer was referring to fuel line. I'm not sure if it's that small, but I'll look around.
 
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jd4242

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They valve should come with the lines.its all one piece. But if not yea you can use 1/4" rubber fuel lines.or maybe it was 1/8" I can't remember how they measure it..ID or OD
 
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MaioCampo

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Hello,

I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas.

Well, the Explorer is all back together... but she won't start. I have power. When I turn the key I hear all the normal sounds, but it won't turn over. I've checked all electrical connections, spark plug wires, and coil, and everything looks good. I checked throttle cables, and those appear to be working. I pressed the gas a bajillion times, but don't smell fuel.

Any ideas? Thanks!
 
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jd4242

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Is the starter engaging and spinning the motor?
 
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MaioCampo

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I'm not exactly sure what that means, but I think so? It just spins... I pump the gas and nothing happens, it won't turn over. It's like I'm not getting fuel, or fire.
 
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jd4242

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check the inertia switch in the passenger floorboard right under the glove box it may have tripped or make sure the coil pack is plugged in or fuse for feul pump
 
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MaioCampo

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Ha! I totally forgot to plug that back in. I'll correct that and report back in a few hours. Thanks!
 
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MaioCampo

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It lives! I've driven it around nice and easy about 10 miles, no leaks. I know it will take more time and miles to know for sure if this all worked out to stop the leaks, but it lives! Heh, heh.

Thanks everyone, especially JD for all the help.
 
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jd4242

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It lives! I've driven it around nice and easy about 10 miles, no leaks. I know it will take more time and miles to know for sure if this all worked out to stop the leaks, but it lives! Heh, heh.

Thanks everyone, especially JD for all the help.

Not a problem man.glad she up and alive!! Way to save another explorer!!:salute:
 
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Team Chepsk8

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I had a similar leak, and it turned out to be the gaskets on the thermostat housing. Very stupid and ridiculous design. The one for my 01 was not available and crazy expensive, but I found that I could use an earlier one with minor mods, and it worked. There is a thread for it I did a couple years back.

Still want to meet and clobber the designer at FORD who came up with the design. Idiot.
 
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malohnes

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Good work on your big job.

I did this 3 times over the course of 12 months because a leaking LIM gasket turned into a a bad head gasket which turned into a bad head. It is a daunting task at first for a novice, but now I don't think anything of it. It helped me so much to dive into my truck, so much so that I was able work on my rear end, do a SOA swap and other mods by myself.

Saving another expo and making yourself more self-reliant is rewarding and fun knowing you can go places with confidence backed by skill and experience.
 
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