Clicking Noise, But No Start, Help!

[badge49]

I drove the truck fine all week, but the 95A alt. has been failing. I drove to Auto Zone yesterday and picked up a new 130A alt. I came home and installed the new alt. Now the truck won't start?! I checked all wires with voltometer, all have power flow within a volt or so of the batt. The Yellow Top holds 10.2V (old alt didn't charge well).

1.) I tripple checked all connections.
2.) I pulled and checked every fuse.
3.) Recently replaced the crank position sensor, so not likely cause.
4.) I tried jump-starting the system (twice, both times at 13.5V or greater)
5.) When I turn the key, all that happens is a rapid clicking noise from under the hood.

I assume the clicking is the starter relay? The truck won't turn over, but not for a lack of batt. power.

Help! I'm frustrated and I'm sure it's some stupid little thing I missed!

 

[410Fortune]

10.2 volts is not enough to crank your starter, however you said the same thing happens when you jump it.

I am not sure if your 97 still has a fender mounted 3 post starter solenoid?
If it does try this:

put the truck in P or push in the clutch, turn key to on, and jumper the two big posts on the starter solenoid.

If it doesnt start then your wiring to the starter or the starter itself is suspect

if it does start then the wiring to your solenoid or the solenoid itself is suspect

Keep in mind the starter needs a good ground, on many of these trucks the starter gets its ground through the transmission bellhousing, so your ground cables from battery to the engine and frame should be in primo condition.

You should also check the wiring at the starter, there are two power wires, the larger feed directly from the battery and the smaller "signal" wire from the key that tells the starter mounted solenoid to go (yes you have two solenoids, Ford starters have a second solenoid built in)

let us know what you find!

 

[badge49]

'97/'98, 4.0L SOHC, 245ci, AT, VIN E

Does it matter which pos.+ wire I attach to? I assume I should just ground the neg- cable?

 

[badge49]

The wires to the starter seem fine clear up to the batt. They're tight and not burnt or corroded.

 

[badge49]

Tried it, but it didn't happen

10.2 volts is not enough to crank your starter, however you said the same thing happens when you jump it.

I am not sure if your 97 still has a fender mounted 3 post starter solenoid?
If it does try this:

put the truck in P or push in the clutch, turn key to on, and jumper the two big posts on the starter solenoid.

If it doesnt start then your wiring to the starter or the starter itself is suspect

if it does start then the wiring to your solenoid or the solenoid itself is suspect

Keep in mind the starter needs a good ground, on many of these trucks the starter gets its ground through the transmission bellhousing, so your ground cables from battery to the engine and frame should be in primo condition.

You should also check the wiring at the starter, there are two power wires, the larger feed directly from the battery and the smaller "signal" wire from the key that tells the starter mounted solenoid to go (yes you have two solenoids, Ford starters have a second solenoid built in)

let us know what you find!

I checked the continuity of all the starter & starter relay/solenoid wires. They all have power and do what they're supposed too. I touched a pos. extention to the starter relay/solenoid and it clicked (worked). Truck still does not turn over! I can hear the fuel pump turn on and pressurize and the starter relay clicks over. The starter does not turn and the engine does not turn over.

I'm thinking this is something small and stupid because it worked fine yesterday up until I swapped out alternators. It's not the starter motor, that has been working like a champ and would not be affected by swapping in an alt. I keep checking enerything over, but nothing seems to be wrong...except that it won't start?!

 

[fixxxer]

Quote / I can hear the fuel pump turn on and pressurize and the starter relay clicks over. The starter does not turn../end quote
If your starter relay is functioning but you don't hear a click from around the starter, you may have a bad starter selenoid or a bad cable going to the starter. When that relay closes, it supplies power to the starter selenoid, the pinion gear gets pulled by the electro-magnetism to engage the flywheel and it makes contact with a set of heavy duty electrical contacts that supply the current to the starter motor windings.

 

[badge49]

Fixed!

I knew it had to be something stupid...

So I'm talking with my neighbor and we're both rubbing our heads. We decide it HAS to be the starter motor, even though it SHOULD be ok. It can't be the wiring, because it all checks out. Then he says that his Optima batts. have consistantly shown high voltage on a voltometer, but not on a load-meter (core power). This may apply to my rig because the old alt. had been failing to fully charge the batts. We both agree this should be null since I tried jumping it, even using the other vehicle to charge it for 20 min. I figure, hey, I've got this extra Red Top sitting here (10V), why not pull the Yellow and swap 'em just for the heck of it?!

Started right up. The new alt. works awesome. The Yellow Top is at Auto Zone getting a core charge for the next three days (free!!!). Thanks for the quick replies guys!

 

[Haroldfix]

Fixed!

I knew it had to be something stupid...

So I'm talking with my neighbor and we're both rubbing our heads. We decide it HAS to be the starter motor, even though it SHOULD be ok. It can't be the wiring, because it all checks out. Then he says that his Optima batts. have consistantly shown high voltage on a voltometer, but not on a load-meter (core power). This may apply to my rig because the old alt. had been failing to fully charge the batts. We both agree this should be null since I tried jumping it, even using the other vehicle to charge it for 20 min. I figure, hey, I've got this extra Red Top sitting here (10V), why not pull the Yellow and swap 'em just for the heck of it?!

Started right up. The new alt. works awesome. The Yellow Top is at Auto Zone getting a core charge for the next three days (free!!!). Thanks for the quick replies guys!

So it was the battery? I have a 2002 ford explorer. Same diagnosis. But before I changed the starter well it was 'e built changed the battery and worked for about a month and now stopped. I use to be able to start it by jumping it and worked like that for a week and now won' turn even jumping it.

It just makes clicking noise

 

[XLTrunner]

Rapid clicking noise is classic weak battery. I'm surprised you were able to jump start it. Usually, that doesn't even work when the battery has a bad cell. If you take it somewhere to be tested, make sure they do a load test to determine it's true condition. Voltage test by itself doesn't tell the whole story.

 

[koda2000]

Rapid clicking noise is classic weak battery. I'm surprised you were able to jump start it. Usually, that doesn't even work when the battery has a bad cell. If you take it somewhere to be tested, make sure they do a load test to determine it's true condition. Voltage test by itself doesn't tell the whole story.

I lot of people try to use those cheap-ass thin gauge jumper cables. They're not capable of handling the AMPS necessary to start a vehicle with a really bad battery. The thicker gauge jumper cables are expensive, but they're worth every penny.