The #1 Ford Explorer enthusiast resource for over 25 years!
Performance upgrades, maintenance, modifications and problem solving. Covering the Explorer, ST, Ecoboost, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar.
Yes as said there are two plaecs air gets trapped. Meaning its trapped, bleeding doesnt get it out easily.
If you look at the hydraulic line you can see it dips under the frame rail, then back up and around, kind of a u shape = not good. Air pocket will sit there as fluid goes by.
okay i took the master cylinder back out. i have a buttload of pressure now, without connecting it to the slave clyinder. now it's time to connect the slave cylinder and bleed bleed bleed. so i know the master cylinder is still good. i guess it's time to retry and retry again.
okay, here's the issue. i have it bled and i'm getting solid streams. the clutch does disengauge but not fully. i can put it into gear but i have to slam it into and makes a nasty sound. just keep on bleeding or is something not right?
okay so i took out the master cylinder and bench bled it and moved the line all around, upside down and everything and it got that last bit of air out. the clutch still doesn't FULLY disengauge, but enough to drive it. it doesn't go into reverse though. i don't understand this. is it because the clutch isn't fully engauged?
I don't know anything about it, but is there a way you can splice a bleed block or create a bleeder line in the high spots to get the air out? Kind of like a forced hot water heating system on a house. Also is there any mechanical adjustment you can make to help the throw?
Yes the mechanical adjustment you can make is to remove the trans and put washers behind the slave cylinder, in effect bringing it closer to the clutch.
I believe you MAY have the same problem I had,which was the wrong slave cylinder for your trans
i really doubt it's the wrong slave cylinder. i bought it from o'reillys and it's for a 93. all parts are for a 93, which is the year of my truck. i can double check, but like i said again, i don't think there is much of a problem with it. anybody have any idea about the reverse problem?
How do you know your 5 speed is a 93? They made the Mazda 5 speed in the late 80's all the way till the mid 90's You see the rebuilder only knows its a Mazda 5 speed, when you bought it they could have grabbed one off the shelf that came from a 2.9L truck
You need to fix your throw out problem and have the tranny disengaged before it will go in reverse. Unlike the forward gears where the synchros are spinning with the engine rotation and you can force it in, going into reverse is against the grain...
i went to the junkyard and pulled the transmission myself out of a 1993 navajo. the only reason it was junked is because it was wrecked a little and the head gaskets were bad. at this particular junkyard they write on the vehicle the reason it's junked if they know waht it is. i think i'll pull the tranny out soon and put either 1 or 2 washers behind each bolt on the slave cylinder, depending on thickness of the washers, and see if that does it. i'm still leaning towards something isn't aligned right in the gear linkage.
Sorry it took so long. I work..... ALOT!! what I ment by turning the MS upside down is take the two bolts out of the master cylinder, leave to presssre hose and the supply hose hooked up. The piston where the push rod goes should be faceing down.Be sure to remove the pushrod so that your finger is pushing the piston up. This will allow the air trapped in you MS to escape to the resvior. The whole point to my madness is get the supply hose above the piston and pressure hose so the air will escape to the resvior.
How does the Motive Power Bleeder work in these situations? Better than manually bleeding the system? I'm half temped to buy a power bleeder because I always run into this situation after working on the tranny/clutch.
i finally figured out what my problem was and how i think bleeding a clutch on these badboys can be done. here's the procedure that i think should be done, assuming that everything works.
1)bench bleed the master cylinder first, then WITH the line to the slave that has the check valve in it to make sure it's good. make sure you hold the line upside down so air can travel up and out of that line. after you have fluid in it, pump a few times, then open valve, depress rod, close valve, release rod, repeat until you can't see any more bubbles.
2)install in vehicle, make sure the pedal is hard as a rock with your hand, not foot or else you could break the master cylinder. if it isn't, it's either a bad master cylinder or you didn't get the air out.
3)attatch hose to slave and crack bleeder valve for a few seconds then shut to relieve some pressure built up in the master cylinder.
4) pump pedal 5-10 times, wait 1-3 minutes and repeat 3 times.
5) crack valve, depress pedal, close valve release pedal and keep an eye on your fluid level. repeat this about 5-10 times.
6) check pressure. repeate steps 4 and 5 until bled, if still no pressure, start over.
basically i think if you use that procedure and keep trying you should get it. like 410fortune said, air can get trapped in that "U" shape, which is what happened to me. i guess every case is different, but by following that you should be able to get air out of the master cylinder, the line and the slave cylinder.
anyone got any further ideas on why my trans won't go into reverse?