Exproblems
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- April 17, 2011
- Messages
- 1,684
- Reaction score
- 19
- City, State
- Orchard Park, N.Y.
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '05 Explorer XLT 4.0L
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Which engine do you have? The 4.0L V-6 or a V-8 model? I have the V-6 and my water pump with attached cooling fan shaft and pulley is located in the middle of the engine, down below the thermostat housing area. FYI, They (water pumps) are usually centrally located on the front of the engine if a engine cooling fan runs off it's belt pulley connection. The serpentine belt spins the water pump pulley shaft, which activates the pumping action of the water pump and spins the cooling fan at the same time.
You would get coolant splashing around by the cooling fan especially if you have a heavy or good size leak. This can make it hard sometimes to determine where the leak is coming from. A crudy build up around the seam of the thermostat housing is a tell tale sign that it is coming from there. When a water pump leaks, from my 34 year experience of driving cars, is usually right after you shut it off and pressure builds up in the system. Fluid will then drip or run out of the "weep hole" in the water pump for a few seconds or more and run down on to the Harmonic Balancer pulley and belt, then the ground. After you do the thermostat repair, check for leaks not only in the thermostat housing area, but then check the water pump area and below it. Use a flashlight for the water pump and I found it is easier to spot a water pump leak in darkness, because of the some what flourescent color of antifreeze and the flashlight hitting it.
BTW, yes, you can leave the Coolant Expansion/Resevoir Tank cap off during the refill process and while you warm up the vehicle to get the thermostat open and don't forget to squeeze the upper radiator hose with your hands while it is warming up to work out any air bubbles in the coolant system. Air in the system will keep you from getting heat in the heater core till the air is purged out. I wore work gloves to protect my hands, hose gets some what hot and keep your fingers and hands away from the spinning cooling fan blades or fan belt. The upper hose should have an elevated section to it away from the cooling fan so you can get your fingers on it safely and squeeze. You'll see air bubbles after you squeeze it percolating up in the Expansion Tank, this is air escaping from the system. Make sure you measure how much coolant you drain from the vehicle, so you know how much new coolant and "distilled" water mix (At least a 50/50 mix) to install into your vehicle after the repair is made. Just follow those steps at your own risk of course, but it worked for me and no leaks to date or problems. You can also print that web page I gave you with the instructions on it so you can have them with you while you work on it. Good luck, let me know how it worked out for you.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
Which engine do you have? The 4.0L V-6 or a V-8 model? I have the V-6 and my water pump with attached cooling fan shaft and pulley is located in the middle of the engine, down below the thermostat housing area. FYI, They (water pumps) are usually centrally located on the front of the engine if a engine cooling fan runs off it's belt pulley connection. The serpentine belt spins the water pump pulley shaft, which activates the pumping action of the water pump and spins the cooling fan at the same time.
You would get coolant splashing around by the cooling fan especially if you have a heavy or good size leak. This can make it hard sometimes to determine where the leak is coming from. A crudy build up around the seam of the thermostat housing is a tell tale sign that it is coming from there. When a water pump leaks, from my 34 year experience of driving cars, is usually right after you shut it off and pressure builds up in the system. Fluid will then drip or run out of the "weep hole" in the water pump for a few seconds or more and run down on to the Harmonic Balancer pulley and belt, then the ground. After you do the thermostat repair, check for leaks not only in the thermostat housing area, but then check the water pump area and below it. Use a flashlight for the water pump and I found it is easier to spot a water pump leak in darkness, because of the some what flourescent color of antifreeze and the flashlight hitting it.
BTW, yes, you can leave the Coolant Expansion/Resevoir Tank cap off during the refill process and while you warm up the vehicle to get the thermostat open and don't forget to squeeze the upper radiator hose with your hands while it is warming up to work out any air bubbles in the coolant system. Air in the system will keep you from getting heat in the heater core till the air is purged out. I wore work gloves to protect my hands, hose gets some what hot and keep your fingers and hands away from the spinning cooling fan blades or fan belt. The upper hose should have an elevated section to it away from the cooling fan so you can get your fingers on it safely and squeeze. You'll see air bubbles after you squeeze it percolating up in the Expansion Tank, this is air escaping from the system. Make sure you measure how much coolant you drain from the vehicle, so you know how much new coolant and "distilled" water mix (At least a 50/50 mix) to install into your vehicle after the repair is made. Just follow those steps at your own risk of course, but it worked for me and no leaks to date or problems. You can also print that web page I gave you with the instructions on it so you can have them with you while you work on it. Good luck, let me know how it worked out for you.
