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CopyKat's Copy Cat B4

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Thats awesome

I have a custom machined Dana 44 outer shaft on that side, to make up for th eadditional track width we built into the beams, it allows me to run the spring inside the slip yoke and it works perfect as long as the dust cap is tack welded in place it has held up just fine.

I will likely be running a setup more similar to yours with the next set of beams I build (less cut and turn, 4.5" wider per side, ball joint re-location, and dana 44 outers)

My ARB locker does not have provisions for the c clip retainer so a spring in the slip yoke is my only option
 



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Rear case adapter.

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Here is the rear closeout.

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The hole I have to fill

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Just need the piece of pipe to go in between.

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1.5" stretch with a zero rate add a leaf I made.

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Doubler adapter welded and the close out welded. Time to mock this up and get the shifters made.:D

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Picked up another M5OD to rebuild my spare (2wd, 2.9L). I munched 1st and second, and got new gears but they don't mesh quite right and it's noisy. Just need a bearing kit and I'm good to go. Can you say 3.70 first gear. It'll sure beat the 3.40 that I have now. Will make the doubler lower yet.:D

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Installed opening glass into my hatch.
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Trimmed the rear fender opening to compensate for the Zero rate add a leaf. Total wheel base of 97". Removed a cracked leaf out of the rear packs, lowering the rear 1.5". Shimmed the front coils another 1/4" to level the truck out some. Painted the roof white and got new tires/wheels.

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I am curious to see how you added the glass hinges to your non opening glass hatch? From the factory there are metal inserts inside the hatch to re-enforce the connection.

just curious, looks great.

So the wheel base was 95.5" before the rear re-location?
 






I am curious to see how you added the glass hinges to your non opening glass hatch? From the factory there are metal inserts inside the hatch to re-enforce the connection.

just curious, looks great.

So the wheel base was 95.5" before the rear re-location?

I put in Riv-nut inserts. I know it's not the best method but it works, untill I get my split gate working. I aquired a fubared hatch from a buddy of mine. Traded a spare hatch I had for his opening window one.

Yes the wheel base was 95.5". The front axle was pushed forward about 1" and the F150 leaves and spring bracket gave me an extra 1/2" rearward. Then with the zero rate I moved the rear back another 1.5 for a total of 2" rearward and 1" forward. Thus going from 94 to 97"
 


















thats gonna be sweet with tractor like gearing

Nice work!
 












Better shot of the painted bumpers. It's also clean. :D

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Some more old skool bling!!

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I like the FORD on the hood!
 






I like the FORD on the hood!

The only Blue oval left on the truck is the one on the steering wheel.

No plans to put the ovals back on either. Sticking with the script.

Just need to find some old bronco badges for the sides. Those will go on after i put the steel fender bulges on.
 












Out into the rocks in August and beat the piss out of the truck. Needed some repairs after this trip.

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did you do a build up on the dual transfer cases?id like to know how to do one.i have 2 manual borg warner 1350's and one electric 1350,one electric 1354.
 






did you do a build up on the dual transfer cases?id like to know how to do one.i have 2 manual borg warner 1350's and one electric 1350,one electric 1354.


No not yet. It's been sitting on my bench for the past 4 months now. It would of helped the last time out.

Would of had alot less of this
2007_08_06_Rennie_073.jpg
 



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Had some time to kill over the weekend so I thought I would do a bit of electrical upgrades. Had a few gremlins that needed to be worked out.

Once the electrical was somewhat figured out I installed one of these!

Push Button start.
pushstart007.jpg


I had the Military spec Momentary switch so i used it. I also had a rocker switch I could have used.

I may get one of these later on.

00_s2000_button_01.jpg
 






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