damage control

[NHale623]

To perform a compression test, you only need a gauge, hose and fittings to screw into your spark plug holes. They cost around $30, I don't know if your local parts store has them for loaners or not.

Here's a link that will provide more information on performing a compression test: http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/articleviewer.asp?pg=res20010301ct

Regarding the freeze plugs, I never tried to replace one while the engine is still in the truck. I would think you could do it, but it won't be fun.

Personally, I could live with the freeze plugs until I found out how the coolant is entering the combustion chamber. If the block is cracked, new plugs won't help.

 

[catdaddy]

how accurate and can a comp. test be done on a cold motor? how long can a motor be safely run with water in the oil?

 

[catdaddy]

number from compression test; #1 - 160, #2 - 175, #3 - 150, #4 - 95, #5 - 150, #6 - 80. ran the test several times and this is an average. #6 spark plug lost the center electrode and is where coolant is spewing from. all other plugs look o.k. in your humble opinion, what the hell does this tell me? ha,ha,ha. can it be repaired to limp along for about 2 months, or is the only way to tell is to remove the heads and inspect for cracks?

 

[catdaddy]

just crunched the numbers for mpg on this trip. is it possible to get 20 mpg on this motor?

 

[catdaddy]

then i'm not surprised it got me home. gave it a whataboy when i pulled in the driveway.

 

[NHale623]

This thread has some good information in it regarding compression tests: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171485

Regarding your numbers, neither bank looks good. A leak down test would help to narrow the causes, but if you're short on funds then I'd start with the passenger side, since that's the side where it appears you're losing coolant. Pull the head, inspect the head gasket and see if you can tell if it's blown or not. I'd take the head to a machine shop and have it inspected for flatness and cracks.

I would not drive the car with coolant in the oil pan. You'll destroy the bottom end of the motor.

 

[catdaddy]

i've decided to open her up. this will be my first time so much advice is needed. if it turns out to be gaskets, i want to know which is the best replacement set. and other stuff i should look for and or replace. the budget is a little less than 500. i will not get rid of the car because it may be gifted to my kid ( reupolstered door panels and new suicide doors on the back ). have about 1 1/2 yrs to get it in it's best condition. but i need to get it running for my move to amarillo in a few weeks. starting maybe tomorrow.

 

[catdaddy]

what size bolt hold on the exhaust manifold?

 

[catdaddy]

right side head cracked, anybody selling a set? hit me w/e-mail.

 

[catdaddy]

replaced cracked head, now it turn's over but won't start. getting fuel, i checked the schrader valve.

 

[catdaddy]

did u chek to see if the plugs are wet.

 

[93TwotoneXLT]

Hate to say it, but the #6 plug being wet and the electrode burned off and slime being on the oil filler cap and, and, and... typically means cracked head/heads. These engines are very sensitive to temperature. Being that you were on the highway and it overheated means that the engine got very hot very fast. If you were just driving around town and it happened then you probably would have seen a gradual rise in temperature and had time to stop and go to nurse it home. Maybe you got lucky and just had an extreme failure of a lower intake gasket, but I doubt it. The good news(if there is any) is that if you are mechanically inclined then you can get replacement heads for around $3-400 each, brand new. Good Luck

Sorry, I didn't see a second page to this thread. Looks like you are on the right track.

 

[93TwotoneXLT]

Did you re-use the old pushrods? Is it possible that one of them was put in the wrong place, causing a valve to stay open too long and not fire? Never mind that, if that were the case then it would proabably fire but run like sh**. Plug wires all routed correctly? Sounds stupid I know but after working on a truck for awhile and wanting to get it all back together sometimes things get put in the wrong spot. When I replaced my lower intake gasket I got a little too excited and forgot to secure the fuel line the fuel rail. Had to take the upper intake and coil pack off to hook it up. Keep plugging away, may be something really simple. Also check compression now that you have it all back together. If one of the cylinders is off it may tell you something. Hope this helps.

 

[catdaddy]

went back and checked the wires. they are; left front 1 - 2 - 3 , rite front 4 - 5 - 6
aren't they? yeah same rods, but kept them in order.

 

[NHale623]

The coil pack is arranged like:

3 4
2 5
1 6
(front)

The cylinders are:

3 6
2 5
1 4
(front)

 

[catdaddy]

thanks for making me check that, it was the problem. put all the rods & lifters back in the exact same places and f/*-ed up the wires. sure i'll laugh about it later, probably after a couple of brews. by the way, bought a code reader today and got a 114 and 116. could the 116 have caused the problem in the first place? got some other stuff to check, but it's raining out. will get to it tommorrow, hopefully.

 

[93TwotoneXLT]

Awesome Glad to hear that you got it running. That code could indicate a problem...Mr shorty is the guy to talk to on codes and what they could mean. If I am not mistaken, and I could be, the coolant temp sensor measures the temperature of the coolant running into the engine/lower intake and the computer uses that info to help adjust air/fuel, idle, etc. i.e. cold coolant=cold engine, computer says open loop bump idle and give it more gas. Warm coolant warm engine closed loop mode. Something like that I think. Again, not positive. I also know that there is a method to the madness of checking the codes of an OBD-1 engine. Check out Mr. Shorty's thread in the EEC-IV forum to find out how exactly to pull these codes, if you haven't already. IF that is what the sensor is for then I do not think that it would cause the engine to overheat like that. I would think that the computer would put the engine in an open loop mode or something and you would just get poor mileage and maybe less power. Hope this helps

 

[NHale623]

When you got these codes, was it KOEO or KOER?

 

[catdaddy]

these codes were KOEO. so far all i have done w/the code reader is this test. the CM showed 111. the CEL has been on and off since i got the truck about 14 months ago.

 

[catdaddy]

check this out, ran the KOEO test again & it showed no codes 111,111. went for a short drive and no CEL lite came on. don't have a timing light so can we know how accurate the KOER test will be? i'm gathering info from the post about pulling codes & the book that came w/the code reader ( innova/equus part # 3145 ) bought at o'rielly's for 38 buxs.