dana 35/dana 44 knuckle/spindle swap questions

I have read that solid (I assume) dana 44 knuckles and/or spindles will fit on a dana 35 ttb.

Is that statement correct? Or are they talking about swapping the parts between a 35 ttb and a 44 TTB?

I am wondering, because I have a '97 dana 35 ttb and I have a solid dana 44 out of a '79 bronco (supposedly). And from what I can see, the knuckles will not interchange, because of the spacing between the balljoints. And I believe the bolt pattern, and the number of bolt holes (5 vs. 6) in the spindles are different.

So what 44 are they talking about that the parts interchange with the dana 35 ttb???????

 

[FMExplorer]

You need everything from the knuckles out - including the stub axle shaft from a D44 TTB. The knuckles will fit, but the spindle uses a 5 x5.5 bolt pattern instead of the 5x4.5 that comes on the Explorer. You would want to consider changing rear axle shafts to match the new front bolt pattern. Obviously you will need new rims. This is a mod Rocky and myself are considering doing. This should fix steering and wheel bearing issues found in the D35 while keeping the road manners decent.

Hope this helps...

J

 

[Skyhiranger1]

okay, so they were talking about a TTB 44. That makes much more sense. Because like I said, there is no way, that I can see, that the knuckles and/or spindles will interchange between a solid 44 and a ttb 35.

Thanx.

 

[Skyhiranger1]

What I was hoping I could do, was to go to a solid axle 44 and use the 35 ttb knuckles and/or spindles so I could keep the 5 on 4.5.

Yea, Yea, I know about the bearing issues with a 35 ttb, but I haven't had any problems with them. And the reason I was wanting to go with a solid axle is because with 8" of suspension lift, the steering qualities are lacking.

 

[Sandy]

If you really want to keep the 5x4.5 bolt pattern look into 'Rotors' on the Web and find a replacement for the D44 rotors.

Any thing is possible if you have hte money.

 

[10ford]

Anyone know why I can't get the spindle nut off? It's a 2-3/8" nut, and I assume it has some sort of "magic ford lock" that is impossible to unravel without having the I.Q. of a genius. I'm ready to throw a solid front axle at the nasty b*tch, but don't have the money. Just trying to fix the brakes for now. Please help!

 

[Skyhiranger1]

It's been awhile, since I've had to work on my Ranger, but....I don't recall there being anything unusual about removing the nut. Let's see....does it have the "star" washer sandwiched between the nuts, that have the tabs bent over the outer nut? If so, you need to bend any tabs back up and the nut should come off. It may be hard to break loose, since it is supposed to be torqued pretty hard.

 

[10ford]

No, it doesn't have the star washer or the bent over tabs. I think the reason Ford stopped using that was because it worked and it was simple. I cleaned all the grease off of it and the only thing I can see is a keyway under the nut that has a key in it. Some others think that maybe I have to get that rotten s.o.b. out of there before the nut will come loose. I don't know how to get it out. A magnet didn't have enough sack to pull it out, and of course it is too recessed to get a pair of pliers on it. I'm tempted to weld something on it and then start hitting it with my home made 50lb slide hammer. All for a little 1/4" keyway....

 

[IZwack]

Hey some1 please school me on the advantages if the D44 knuckle swap on the D35?

 

[10ford]

Hey, I got a response from another posting that I put up. Thanks for your help. Here it is:

If you hadn't already check out Glacier's Brake diary thread you should have a look. Lots of good info and pics on removing all the front end components.


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[10ford]

The biggest one that I could think of right now would be not having to deal with their stupid "keyway lock". I hate that stupid stuff. The ol '44 was god's gift to Ford.

 

[glfredrick]

Those little lock keys come right out -- that is, unless you've mashed it beyond all comprehension by reefing on the nut...

Just use a pick and a magnet. Wiggle it with the pick and the magnet will scoot it right out of the slot.

When you get it apart, convert to manual hubs, which use the Dana 44 spindle nuts with the pegged washer between.

Let me know if you want to buy a used set. I have one left.

 

[Skyhiranger1]

I cleaned all the grease off of it and the only thing I can see is a keyway under the nut that has a key in it. Some others think that maybe I have to get that rotten s.o.b. out of there before the nut will come loose. I don't know how to get it out. A magnet didn't have enough sack to pull it out, and of course it is too recessed to get a pair of pliers on it. I'm tempted to weld something on it and then start hitting it with my home made 50lb slide hammer. All for a little 1/4" keyway....

Ahh yes, thanks for refreshing my memory......it has a key.
Sometimes the nut will be turned against the key and bind it up, and it won't come out. So you may have to barely turn the nut, either left or right, to get it away from the key, then the key should slide right out with a magnetic pick up tool, or the key also has a small lip on it, where you can sometimes take a very small piece of wire and bend a short 90* bend on the end, and it will hook the key and you can pull it out that way....I think I have used a piece of welding wire before.

 

[Skyhiranger1]

Hey some1 please school me on the advantages if the D44 knuckle swap on the D35?

Some people have problems with the front wheel bearings on the D35s, when running large tires and/or offset wheels. The D44 bearings are spaced farther apart on the spindle, therefore it usually alleviates the bearing problems.

 

[glfredrick]

Some people have problems with the front wheel bearings on the D35s, when running large tires and/or offset wheels. The D44 bearings are spaced farther apart on the spindle, therefore it usually alleviates the bearing problems.

That it does, but IMO, by the time you took the time, cobbled up all the parts, did the machine shop work, etc., you could either swap in a 44 complete or just get a few spare sets of bearings for the 35. Just a thought...

 

[sn0border88]

The 44 knuckles will not swap, its the brake stuff that does. You have to cut the caliper ears off the 35 knuckle, then redrill it for the sprindle pattern on the 44 spindle. Then its just use the 44 caliper and caliper plate, rotor and hub. You get bigger brakes and hubs, outer axle shaft and stronger wheel bearings. You can also use it to match the rear bolt pattern if you swap in a fullsize 8.8 or a 9"

IZ, you have been skooled.

 

[IZwack]

IZ, you have been skooled.

And apparently I didn't even know it -- until 4 days later . Thanks for the info.

 

[rickcdewitt]

the hybrid 35/44 combo has larger axleshafts than either axle alone also.the 35 stub is smaller,and the 44 inners neck down smaller than the 35 inners.a guy on the ranger station just used a reamer and 44 ball joints on his truck to use the 44 knuckles.he had to clearance the beam though so i dont know if it is stronger than using 35 knuckles.